some thoughts on the subject Aircraft require two complete ignition systems, yours appears to be a single You’re only dealing with battery voltage, so most all automobile switches will work. In fact old Henry Ford used an ignition to ground on the model A The switch with the lift detent or a guarded switch is most appropriate
Prefer a bigger, easier to flick switch, but Lionel! https://www.etsy.com/listing/4440701583/lionel-control-switch-364c-original-k
This makes far more sense to me. I mean the H&C makes thousands of volts… but this is just grounding the internal coil, right? Given that, I would think any 12v switch would work. But again, I’m an electro-idiot.
No battery involved, that's kind of the point. It is just the induced voltage of the primary windings that gets grounded, though.
It would be like a capacitor, stored primary voltage in your case 12volts a switch rated to 20 amps should work. High quality contacts are best.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_magneto I don't have an exact number, and I bet it varies a great deal depending on design and how fresh it is. This talks about it on page 2. Didn't read it all, but hope it helps. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256724 Found this for your files https://myflatheadford.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Scan-C36020032507180.pdf Might help, too. www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7Mg2ppaVfE Basically, it's AC voltage and it increases with RPM.
To me, using left hand to turn the key for starter operation, then at same time use right hand to switch on mag, is awkward.
I am setting mine up with key hidden, ****on on left side of dash to start and push/pull mag in dash center of a model A.
one we prepared earlier. you can ground the earth with a thin wire by hand & no big spark. obviously you want a quality switch as if it fails you can't turn the engine off without choking it or running out of fuel. I've seen more than 1 car with one of these light switches.
Hey @Ryan Here is a bit of inspiration for you, since I know that you have a history of racing various cars. Check out the basic red flip cover switch that John Bianchi has on his very cool vintage Indy car. I know that it isn't what you are looking for, but you get the idea. Enjoy from Dennis.
If you want to see the switch then the Moon style or even a 110 toggle style work well. There are some definite examples of really great grounding switches. I hide my Mag switches under the Dash or on the Side Panel under the Dash. Mentally it makes me feel I am making my Hot Rod harder to steal. But another option is the early Heater switches. Fog Light switches as well. They are designed for a higher draw from the start and provide a buffer at times with a fused connection. Most are labeled "Heat". Depending on what switch you use you could be bringing the HEAT or Lighting up the Hot Rod! Mags are the best. Just don't touch the terminal as you reach for the switch.......
I apologize in advance that this will be of no help but I knew a guy with fueler cackle car. He stood beside the car to start it and grounded the mag with a large alligator clip to the frame to kill it. My first exposure to a magneto.
I had a mag in the 32 years ago , used a Cole Hersey ignition switch designed for a mag , worked out fine . A switch or relay designed for 6v or 12v will fill the need . Military trucks had a few HD switches on the dash to bring on to life . Look into those , there are plenty and cheap
Please don’t put a switch with the red cover, although I understand their origin they now scream fast and furious to me…
I dig the shape of these, but they are too new. https://reverb.com/item/93207116-brown-guitar-12-piece-amplifier-amp-chicken-head-knobs Keep digging, use Bakelite, Radio, Lever, Knob, and other terms.
Okay, we are at 3 pages now on this hot topic, no pun intended! Its truly not a case of money, and its truly not an issue as to a lot of parameters that @Ryan has indicated as to what he is looking for. So far there has been a lot of great suggestions. I keep coming back to this simple, very cost effective unit, that if tinkered with, say paint the knob black and paint the word run in green and the word stop in red, it would be cl***ic and very cool, IMHO. https://www.sprinttosave.com/product-p-778495.html
those push pull switches, including the boat example are likely not designed as magneto kill switches, they are meant to carry power and act as panic ****ons, out completes circuit, in breaks it. it's the function of the magneto ground that gives the opposite action. I'd prefer in off and out to run
Now common sense and focus and clarity have risen to the surface! We could start a go fund me for @Ryan so that he can afford to buy that very cool vintage BOSCH magneto kill switch. Just a thought!
@Paul Yep, just like a panic ****on on an old drill, mill or lathe. https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=emergency stop ****on
Geez guys, whats with the avatars...??? Correct me if I'm wrong, but @41 GMC K-18 , isn't that the avatar that @RodStRace was using not long ago? Please tell me I'm not losing my ****.......
Old Floor mounted starter ****on, Wired to ground when pushed .. & if 3 peddles you can off set in way when clutch in , roll foot to push To ground mag. So when you go to start , hold down with foot (grounded) use remote starter key / ****on to spin engine up to Rpm's Lift foot .. back when I had my first Mag Around 80ish I Used a old round door bell ****on as kill.
This drawing is incorrect. I can't post a corrected one as I have a new Windows 11 computer and haven't bought all the new software I need yet. So I'll do it the hard way... As drawn, the primary coil doesn't have a complete circuit if the intent is to stop the motor by grounding the ignition. The lower end of the primary coil needs to be connected to the other end of the points circuit, with this wire also connected to ground, not circling around to the same input wire. The as-shown ground point in the points circuit needs to be removed, and the capacitor needs just one connection to the points circuit, the other end (outer shell) does go to ground, just like a 'regular' points ignition. The 'kill' wire needs to be tapped into the midpoint connection that goes to the points, that goes to the switch which when closed shorts out the output from the primary to ground, taking the points out of the circuit. The problem here is just what is the voltage/current in that part of the circuit? This is basically an unregulated generator. It must produce enough at slow speed to allow the motor to idle, but as RPM goes up, so does the volts/amps. Knowing this is important for switch life and arc suppression. The drawing as shown could be made to work with a few minor changes (remove the connection from the capacitor to the mid point of the coils and use the capacitor shell as/to the ground, leaving the shown ground) but in this case the kill switch would have to be closed for the ignition to work. The downside here is when the switch opens to kill the ignition, the switch will see secondary voltage surge, not primary. While current will be less, arc suppression in the switch may prove to be a bigger deal. I'll also note that if using a push-to-stop type switch, the first option will need a push-to-close type, the second option just the opposite.
The Jalopy Journal
