Customs guidance on custom motor mounts

Bottom line. Getting it to fit well in the engine compartment and getting the correct driveline angles is much more important than the carburetor angle.

 

Bolting factory motor mounts to the block and building brackets to them is usually the best way to mount a street car engine. It’s not always possible though. Sometimes it’s necessary to fabricate everything from scratch. Speedway has a selection of engine swap mounts, you might find something helpful in their offerings.

 

Thanks, I'll check that out.

 

I got the motor mounts built and in place. I'm satisfied with how it turned out...and just enough clearance between the exhaust manifold and the big Saginaw power steering box.

Now I have another question. This studebaker has a two-piece driveshadt with a carrier bearing. The front shaft is only 16" long and the rear shaft 46". Since I had to create a 1" offset on motor and transmission, that is creating an angle on the front little driveshaft that I'm not liking. I could move the carrier bearing over (kind of a pia) but what about taking out the carrier completely and putting in a one-piece driveshaft. It would only be 16" longer and I could beef it up to 3" dia (the rear shaft is currently 2.5")

I'm not really understanding why they put in a two piece drive shaft to begin with, given that the front section is so small. I see long two piece drive shafts on trucks and assume that's because they are too long to go as a one piece. But why would studebaker put a two piece in when a single shaft would only have to 16" longer.
Thanks for some schoolin.

 

Looks good. It looks like your drive shaft would be around 62” maybe a little longer. Some early 60s Chevy trucks had drive shafts around 61”. I’ve read where 72” is the max that drive shaft companies recommend for a one piece shaft. I think you’ll be alright as long as you have room in the tunnel for a 3” tube and some for it to move with the rear end.

 

Looks good, BUT try out the crank pulley to make sure you have clearance enough to R&I the belt. Some are larger than the damper. You might want to bolt up a fan and set the radiator in place too. Better to find out now!

 

getting the carb level is just a good place to start and in most cases won't hurt.
I have to drive 20 miles to find a flat spot and for years ran a carbureted plow truck pushing snow up and down hills

plenty of fuel in the bowl to back up this hill. bed is about level

 

Ya know, with a plow truck you could make a flat spot!

The carb level is just a rule of thumb. When swapping in drivetrains, it's what works, not hard and fast for most measurements.
It's nice to have a finger's width between the engine and everything else, but sometimes it's tighter.
It's nice to have the exhaust clear of stuff that can't handle heat, but look at lots of starters.
It's nice to be able to pull the oil pan without pulling the engine, but the OEs can't even do that.

 

I prefer getting drive line angles first.
The carb usually takes care of itself. I’ve seen different carb angles on intakes. From 0 to 3.
Crank centerlines remain the same

but whatever works…works

 

I used a Hawk driveshaft and eliminated the two piece six banger drive shaft. I was worried about driveshaft clearance and did modify/enlarge the tunnel just a bit. I mounted the engine so the damper pulley had some clearance and added a piece of angle to make a better mount on the "batwing". I used a 700 R4 with a 350SBC.

 

Bu...bu...but it is Jim.

Would love to see pics of a Rocket in a Hawk.

When picking up a 348 decades ago there was also a Hawk for sale ~$400. Engine condition was unknown and the windscreen was cracked. Ideas of 330 Rocket power danced in my head but finding a windshield scared me off along with other unknowns.

Glad to see I wasn't the only one thinking the same thing

 

The angle is fine.

Run it.