The new nose and art look great, .06 or not. "Here's hoping" and wishing you good luck on the HA/GRa spin-off, I'd like to see it take off as well. I think it could be a terrific adjunct to HA/GR, spreading the class without diluting the concept. On slicks; the tire rules are one of three primary edicts designed to keep the cars above 12 sec, and thus avoid the expensive side of NHRA when running those strips and the expensive side of higher speeds. It works when used, whether it's a HAMBster or anything else. The carb rules and the gas rule are the other two. Remember, the whole HA/GR thing was devised and engineered around that basic 12 second concept. They negate that and they're playing a completely different game. As fast as you can go, using the standards set up for the purpose, is what a class is in the first place, and that's the HAMBster game. If they have to go outside those standards to excell, then they failed to do it the HA/GR way, didn't they? An unsung aspect of it is also doing as much of the work ourselves as we can, rather than simply throwing money at'em. Much like the garage built cars of the period we emulate. No way to make that a rule though, it'll have to remain an ideal. OK, I see I've clambered aboard my soap box again. I think it needed said so I'll leave it, but let me get back to the thread, and to congratulating you on some very nice upgrades to your car. I think the 45'll work out the way you expect. Our inclusion of #18 in our car's name is always taken as the car's number at the strips. Hadn't intended it to be thus but ....
I asked Kathy for a "silver bullet" and forgot to specify the correct ammo. My error! While I'm not a big gun guy, I know the difference and have shot .45 revolvers. Man, that's a slow load. If I lived in HA/GR-land, either California or mid-south, my car would be a faithful Hambster, because I agree with the genius of the concept. Every time is see event pics and video, I get very envious. But, I'm here, all alone, and all I have is either TnT or bracket races to attend. Test and Tune is $70 to $90 here. Bracket day is much cheaper. That's the reason for trying to build consistency into the car. Not to win, but to go a few rounds and get my money's worth. Having scoured the rulebook while building the car, I believe it's legal running 11's and quicker. Whether this old driver has the intestinal fortitude to go that quick remains to be seen. Low 15's seemed fast on the few runs I have made. I'd happily return to a stick shift if other hambsters showed up in the area. Hell, I've got a sawzall, a welder and a wrench, I can do anything. Now, I must begin building the tow vehicle (1940 Plymouth Pickup) for next year and search for slant six horsepower.
Bob.. If you take your car to the races and even a few car shows as a "Show and tell" as we did out here. People will get their intrest up, And start building.. Thats the way we did it out here. We now have about 8 cars that are either finished or at least being worked on..You are in the same boat that Old6 was in a couple of years ago..Be the first in your area, And start your campain to see how many more guys in your area that you can muster up..It actually is fun to do...
Sorry 'bout the soapbox thing, Bob. Over comes me now and then. You know you weren't the target anyway. Our best venue right now is Butch's ANRA series, in his "Open Wheel" bracket class. We get to run our own races during (and in the normal process of) qualifications, then race in O/W during elims. It was also our second break out here (Randy's Dragfest being our first) and took a year of "show & tell"s before we could "shoe & tell". We're still inserted in various brackets at the meets we run, but when we can field enough cars we can ask for our own class. The coolest thing is that then we'll be allowed to run both if we can handle the turn-arounds. Of course that'll mean radiators and hot-lapping, so the non-cooled cars won't be able to indulge. Now there's a choice we're looking forward to having to make. Oh well, some day. First, and most important step in getting a slant to move is porting. Second through fifth steps are .... porting. Not necessarily larger (except at the inner seat lip, big help there) but smoother, much smoother. Remember that most uprights have to turn the charge 90* to get it into the cylinder, the slant has to turn it a total of 120*. A little port matching on the manifolds and (if you're attentive) a touch of Mays effect, and you'll like the results. We dropped over a second with these. Then the cam can do it's job. There you'll want to tickle the intake lobes more than the exhaust. Carbs need to suck, the exhaust is squirted out anyway. We're still running a street cam (Comp Cam's 264 grind, more bottom than necessary for a 6" footprint) but are working on a proper profile for our car. You've got the right idea, take your time like you're doing and go it step by step. Hell, it's more fun that way anyhow, spreads it out over more seasons. ps. Low 15s are faster in an open car, it just an anomoly of physics. That's why we like'em.
Dick, I count you and several other guys on the HA/GR sub-site as good friends, even though we might never meet. If it wasn't for the enthusiasm and help provided here, I would have never built my car. The last time I ported a set of heads was when a friend got a set of Joe Mondello sbc heads. I copied them for my Thames, in 1964. Have heard there are some pretty thin walls in the slant head, in places. I have been trying to get in touch with a slant specialist in Nebraska, but I'm not quite ready to pay the price for a "pro" head. A neighbor, who drove sprint cars just put me on to a shop in southern Minnesota that built slants for a dirt class that ran down there years ago. Maybe they will have a head laying around or can show me how to avoid disaster. Not afraid of the work, I just don't want to grind for weeks and create junk. I just pulled 2 slant cranks out of some spare engines I picked up. One had #3 & 4 rod bearings spun. The other crank had #6 rod journal worn .060"! Never have I seen that much wear on a journal. I'm going to follow Doug Dutra's directions on improving the oiling on a slant. The plan is to use low cost cast replacement pistons and recondition the stock rods adding ARP bolts. The block will be cut about .100" to get some compression. I'll use a mild cam and keep the rpm's down. As I type this, I have come to the realization that porting the head myself is the right thing to do (I HATE that phrase, but it fits). On these cars, anything that can be done at home should be done at home. Well. got to go out to the garage now...
Being an AMATUER head porter I recommend that as you modify 1 port (say grind a wall) do the other ports at the same time, helps keep the ports consistant. Ask Lee about the 1 exhaust port (turned out GREAT) I did on our Comet He drove it for years before I did the other 7 We still use the old non performance heads and can run 11.50's at will with our "Back Yard" build Ford 302 This maybe common knowledge but I learned it the hard way! Rocky
you might want to 'adjust' your rocker cover breather format.....or at least use some silver paint to match.... Cheers, and enjoy it for what it is....then find a friend to build another car, start racing it, then find another friend to build a car.....etc etc then you'll be having a blast. Spread the word, Drewfus
Drewfus, Confession time: I had a valve cover painted to match. On one of my driveway tests the cover fell off and I drove over it. Forgot to bolt it down. A senior moment for sure. I've thought about building a second car ala old6rodder's in order to have some competition and the pleasure of the build. I just need someone to buy it when it is done. Actually, I'd sell the slower of the two.
Yeah, Ma Chrysler went with a high nickel mix on the slant's cast iron, so it was easy for'er to go thin on the walls and keep the weight down a bit. Makes for dangerous porting if you're trying to make big holes. Bigger holes aren't really necessary other than the inner seat lip anyway, just stick to reshaping'em and you'll get 80% of it. I'll put up some pictures once I get the float caught up. How high on the nickel? One of the crack historians would know the numbers but you can get an idea of their torsional strength from this link .......... http://lotuseleven.org/DarkAges1/open_exhaust.htm Check out the second page as well for a bit of inside history. I had the luck to see this thing run a couple times, it flat flew.
Hey Bob, you understand the concept. Porting ain't that hard and as Dick said, shape will create as much if not more benefit than size. Try and think of it as "streamlining" the air flow and eliminating corners that will create disruptions in the flow. As for RPMs, most of the inlines are more about torque than horsepower anyway and it's amazing how quick you can make a light car go with a near stock engine and the right combination of gears to use the powerband. It ain't rocket surgery, it's about having fun and getting the best performance out of what ya have with whatever tricks you can find. If you can't afford to spend money on engine mods, start looking at what can be done to shave weight. After all, 100 lbs is 10% of 1,000 lbs and it's all about pounds per horsepower.
I have to agree with Tom here, not that I am any kind of expert (I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once) when I was in High School we took a set of 882 casting heads and all we did to them was gasket match the port opening and smooth the passages. We took very little out of the ports just cleaned them up and it was worth almost 3 tenths. I also agree that doing it yourself could be fun and rewarding. ScottV
Do a bit of homework on slants in NASCAR's one time "Economy Car" class. Like the very first year f'rinstance.
You should see Bob's Silver Bullet in person, pictures do not do it justice. He's an awesome fabricator! This car is actually over-built and it sounds great also. I'm the lucky person who finally persuaded Bob to sell his '36 International to me. It took me 2 years of arm twisting but he finally gave in. The engineering and fabrication on the '36 is another testament to Bob's craftsmanship...........Rich
Since it's a little slow on the HA/GR site this time of year, I thought I'd post a pic of the Plymouth truck I just got. It will be my dragster tow vehicle and hopefully, my daily driver. Rich's comments above are very much appreciated, even if he is over enthusiastic regarding my abilities and the quality of the cars I build.
Bob.. I've got a 440 Chrysler and Auto out of a motorhome with 30k on the odometer.. I want to put it in a 1950 Dodge P/U for my tow rig. Will also use an 8 3/4 Mopar rear end for dependability...Good Luck on your Tow Rig build....Dick M
This is cool, I was wondering about "In the Spirit" tow vehicles. A friend of mine has a used U-Haul, one of the larger ones with air brakes and suspension that can be lowered. It also has the I-H Navistar Diesel in it and from the service records that he got with it the engine only has about 30K on it and the clutch, trans and brakes were all done less than 5K ago. The rubber is really good as well. The only problem is the cab and front end are torn up. He only paid $2800 for it and would let me have it for the same abount. I got to thinking about putting the cab and front sheet metal from a '51-'51 F-3 that I see for sale by one of the places I go for work. Anyonw else have any cool ideas or tow rigs ??? ScottV
Dick M, I wish I had a Mopar driveline for the Plymmie. But, with 9 small block Chevies in the garage that's what will be in this one. It's all I know. A friend gave me a flatbed rack from a 1939 Chev. 1 1/2 ton truck. It will be the basis for a 50's style trailer for the dragster. ScottV, Do it!
I keep thinking of sticking a COE cab on an ISUZU (ot I know) NPR chassis (~ 14K GVWR). Diesel and al the brakes you could want to stop one of these on a trailer on behind (or a ramp deck on the back ).
Bob, love the Plymouth! I have a '39 Dodge I'm thinking of putting back together for a tow rig after we build our HAMBster. Originally I blew it all apart thinking I would build a chopped down hotrod with the cab and bed. Then I growed up and got all old and fat. Stock cab height looks pretty good now. I do have the '62 327 w/ 4 deuces and a 4 speed I think I can squeeze in there! In fact, search Cleatus' post for his '40 chevy custom and notice the peaks in his front fenders. Those used to be MY front fenders! Love the Silver Bullet and you're passion. It's guys like you that help keep my HA/GR hopes up.
Bob, Its been cold and rainy today(high 50's......hahaha, Texas cold) and I have been reading your post on and off betweens trips to the shop. Your build AND attitude are a wonderful addition to the HAMB. I just had to comment, because I haven't been "able to put it down".....and I learned some stuff that will be applicable to a Flathead FED project that I am starting on....it's been a good day. Looking forward to meeting you, in person!
Katuna & Skotz, thankyou for the kind remarks. I enjoy the heck out of the HA/GR board. Nobody gets nasty like on the General Discussion board. Seldom go there anymore. Definitely build that '39 Dodge. It is almost identical to my Plymmie. Hah, Cold and rainy in the high 50's. Actually it was that warm here today. It's been a nice November. Sure like the flathead FED idea. That one at Eagle Field was inspirational. I won't do a build thread for the Ply Truck on the HAMB, but to let you know, I have the Mustang II front 85% done. No kit here, all scrap yard parts. Picked up a set of leather Infinity seats with unpteen adjustments. Got to make this ride comfortable because my beat up old body gets very stiff and sore from even a short trip. There is a local cam grinder that has been in business for 60 years. I gonna see wha he can do for a torquey slant six.
great thread. I watched you run at the msra ssfr. I am interested in getting into a ha/gr butt where do you get to run around here?
T Bagger. Thanks for the compliment. I built mine to pass NHRA tech for Altered's running 10:00sec. or slower. I should be able to run anywhere. I have passed tech and run at Rock Falls, near Eau Claire and at Brainerd. There are a few nostalgia meets in the general area. One near Fargo, another in So. Dakota. Also, Iowa, Wisconsin and Illinois have meets. Unfortunately, I won't be running against HA/GR dragsters, but rather it will be brackets. Let me tell you, it feels much faster going slow in an open car. If you need any help or guideance, please do not hesitate to contact me.
The Jalopy Journal
