So many variables in the movement of old car parts at the swap meets and sinking in the fields after being forgotten...again more due to just being unaware...heck many bought or collected this discarded stuff as near coming of age Hoodlums...
This project got stalled after the ***le fiasco. And the ***le thing is still going on. I keep in touch pretty regularly with the WA state patrol inspection manager, but they are waiting on PA to inspect or do whatever they need to do. It’s frustrating that it’s taken so long, but I also need them to work with me, so for now I just keep asking every month or so if anything new has come up. So far, no. However I got kind of tired of nothing going on, so I finally had Mark Codd put the subframe/floor and all braces/wheel wells in it. Mark is an insane craftsman who is known for s***ching 32-34’s together with literal s****s. Mark Had my car a whopping 8 days. Dang the guy knows what he’s doing. Guys from all over the world have sent their cars to Mark…I’m lucky he lives only 45 minutes from me. It’s nice that the doors now click shut and such. I did have him replace the lower tail pan as well, as the original was so hammered.
Mark is awesome and a super cool dude. Follow him on Instagram. Hopefully, see him again at Boneville.
Outstanding car and build. Sorry to hear of the ***le issues, hopefully it resolves quickly. Ensure that the PA paperwork cannot be used to make a claim on your car.
Nearly a year to the day, I got a call from the head of our WA State Patrol inspections office. PA finally inspected the car with the same VIN number as mine. Apparently its a new body and frame. So that car now has to do whatever PA makes you do to ***le a car with no ***le. No idea how/when it ever got the same number as my car. The good news is, my car is now in the ***ling process which takes 3 years. Beings a year had already p***ed, they said I should only have 2 more years to go. It was kind of an eye opener as to how having the right do***entation can make or break you. Never did make Deuce days (car would not have made it regardless, due to not being able to be registered), and so much covid **** at the border last summer, we just didn't go. Not much has been done on the car, I am hoping to get back on it sometime soon.
what you are going through is exactly why I won't buy a car without a ***le, in South Carolina a bill of sale may buy you a car but it will not get you a ***le, your just up SH!T creek. I went through the same ordeal but still couldn't get a ***le on a very nice '32 5 window body, I ended up selling it to a man in Sweden, he didn't need a ***le. I am happy to hear you are moving along in the process but the wait has to be excruciating! HRP
My state does 3 year bonded ***les for cars with no ***le. I have done the process before, and unless you're in a hurry, it's not that big of a deal. The same vin on another car threw a wrench in the spokes on this one, but it should work out fine. As far as buying cars with no ***les, I prefer not to...but if the juice is worth the squeeze.......
Just this week I got the paperwork back from my DMV for a bonded ***le. I just dropped if off at my insurance man to write the bond. I didn't have any problems other than a 7 month wait because of staffing problems at the DMV. There were no worries as my 1930 Whippet was in the same family since new, until the 90 year old son sold it to me (couldn't find the old ***le).
I hear you Chris, a bonded ***le might not be a bad alternative, if your not a old fart like myself 3 years is a eternity, I don't buy green bananas anymore! HRP
The 3 years on a bonded ***le is only for how long the insurance company needs to hold the bond. Once the state gives you the ***le, it's legally your car and you can get plates. You don't even need to wait the 3 years to sell the car.
I don't deal with insurance on this, and you have to register the car for the 3 year thing to kick in. So it is registered in my name. The 3 year thing just gives someone 3 years to challenge ownership. They would have to prove ownership and prove it was stolen. I called it a bonded ***le, but you don't really put a bond on it. It's just a 3 year wait. The day after the 3 year wait is done, you can apply for ***le and you legally own it. If I sell the car to someone here in WA State, that 3 year deal transfers to then. If it goes out of state, the buyer would have to do whatever their state requires to obtain ***le. Every state has different rules it seems.
wow... well you're not too far from us... all you need up here is vin#, b.o.s., a notorized letter stating condition and VIN sighting by Ins. agent... a friend of mine has a relative that does it for people if they don't want to do it themselves....best source of original VIN for old Fords is a s**** engine block...grab those old A & B engine blocks when you see them
@Nailhead A-V8 Thanks for that bit of info....I have 2 spare A blocks and a B block I was thinking of selling, but now I think I may hold on to them.
My buddy Shawn , went thru that with a 60 Buick Invicta 2 dr Hardtop along time ago.. He bought it on a mechanics lean on for what was owed on rebuild of the trans ($800) The guy couldn't reach the guy by phone or mail.. and sold it... Shawn sent a registered letter since to his last address listed for the car.. .. The letter returned back to Shawn . We later found out the owner had p***ed away .. so he was able to go to the DMV with the letter .. They gave him the reg... and was bonded for three years.. sold it two years later.. The seller got a ***le the third year.. Congrats you got that all worked out on the 32 finally... I learned the hard way on 47 Ford Sedan I bought out of Oregon with no ***le.. never again..
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