I went to drain the fluid on my grandpas halibrand quick change rear end (I think it’s halibrand…?) and got stumped… After removing the plate I was surprised to see how shallow the reservoir was. I have never opened a quick change rear end but I feel like there has to be more fluid? how does fhe fluid drain from the axle? I see a breather that appears to be leaking fluid but can’t seem to find another drain plug. thoughts?
You drained the QC gear case. I don't see a drain plug for the ring and pinion section. It seem like the side covers on my race car had a fill plug on one side cover and a drain plug on the other side cover.
Yes I couldn’t see a drain plug on the ring and pinion section either. If I remove the lower gear in the QC case (***uming it just pulls out…?) does that have access to drain From to the ring and pinion section?
There should be a 1/8" npt plug on the bottom of the center section to drain the oil from the main case. If not, you are sol. Pulling the bottom gear won't allow any more oil to drain than already has, especially if the shield or seal was left on the lower bearing.
The oil required (600wt gear oil)in the Model A rear end is different from the required oil ( (standard gear oil) in the center section.
Thank you all for the insight. So since I can’t see any drain plugs in the ring and pinion section. My options are: 1) completely dis***emble to drain then add a drain plug 2) try to get a fluid transfer hose in and down the fill / breather opening and syphon out fluid that way 3) run it till it doesn’t run anymore… ? then in regards to oil: 600wt in QC and standard 80-90/80-140 in ring and pinion or reverse
Double check the side bells, as well as the bottom of the center casting. There really should be a drain and a fill. -rick
Open drive or closed? If open, and you are patient, you could pull the yoke off the front and let it drain slowly out that end. But I guess letting it drain past the lower rear bearing is the same elevation. Maybe jack the front of the car up to encourage some rearward flow. Might take all night.
This is a Cyclone that I had for 20+ years and used the odd plug seen about middle of the back plate. I did break that plate once when I once put narrower Model A gears in it. I got a replacement one from Cook Machine -- it came with none of the six holes that covered the back. It seems mine had been started with a hand drill for them and they showed a few threads sticking out the sides. Precise work, huh?
The best advice from an old famous hot rod builder/racer: Hello, I was reading an old post on our resident hot rod guy with tons of recorded history to date. This is what I got from reading all about a Halibrand Quick Change. Like all rear end oil changes, it is not just a plug to drain and refill with new. Sometimes other makes just open the rear gears, take them out and let the oil drain out. Cars all are different. Sure, a low point drain plug is best for fast gravity drain, but not always good for lowered cars or neighborhood curbs or road hazards. So, we make do with what we have and adjust to fit the need. Jnaki There are oil drain hand pumps available: If you are so inclined. But, for us, our boat technician brought this unit for faster removal of the oil from the enclosed motor on our sailboat. The next time for an oil change, this unit made fast work of removing any oil in the motor. But, in an enclosed boat hull compartment, it was a little noisy. Both units can make the last of the oil an easy removal. YRMV
Cool yeah I’ll give it another look and if no luck I’ll try my hand pump. I got from Napa: GEAR OIL 90WT GL1 that I run in my 3 speed top loader. Good to run that in main housing and the 80-90 gear oil in quick charge or reverse that?
So made some progress. No drain plug. I tried to use my fluid transfer hand pump down the vent hole and couldn’t get any fluid out. So decided to add some. Added about half a quart before I noticed it coming out the rear quick change. So it looks like the fluid is connected between pinion and quick change area which is good. Bad thing is since that’s the case, the case was basically dry because only about half a quart come out when I originally opened be rear case and left it sitting open to drain for about a day… Also went to install my new halibrand gasket and it’s a lot bigger than my current one. My current one is bolt hole to bolt hole: 7.5 vertical, 4.5 horizontal. So this appears to be a 7 inch which change? Any recommendations on gaskets? The one I had appeared to be metal so I put it back on for the time being. I added the other half of my quart bottle and will give it a few hours to see if it leaks any.
. . . starting to sound like it's a "Model A" -- rather than the "V-8" most of us were used to. I don't remember the specifics but do remember a gear set I borrowed 60+ years ago. They turned out to be "Model A" gears that were narrower and they broke my end plate. We all set lubrication level thru the plug in the back -- maybe these are different.
Cool. does anyone know where I can buy a gasket? The ones I have got online are to large. Horizontal bolt to bolt is 4.5 inches and vertical bolt to bolt is 7.5
The Jalopy Journal
