Hot Rods Halibrand Quick Change

I have a Halibrand quick change in my 1953 Chevy 3100 Pickup. I have been unable to get the rear end to stop dripping. The rear seal (where the drive shaft connects) continue to drip constantly. I highly suspect that the bearing are shot. Does anyone know of a shop still in existence, that can be trusted to rebuild this unit for me, assuming parts are still available.

Thanks

Bob

 

Gearhead QCE on here should be able to help or get you going in the right direction.

 

Check with your local dirt track racers. They run variations of it and should be able to point you to a good local rebuilder.

 

Where are you so maybe someone knows of somebody near you.

 

Where are you located?

 

Make sure the differential is vented and also the vent is not in the actual center section where it would sling oil at it

 

Gear oil weeps down the splines. Use Permatex on the large washer that holds the U joint on.

 

Northeast of Dallas Texas.

 

Brian Bass is the Dallas area. If anyone is going to get something dead on correct it’s him.

 

His website. Contact is at the bottom of the page.

http://www.basskustom.com/phone/sho...6OCRgRL3lxSAt1lVKJ_aem_c0Xg7O9GlZXNGese0FChFA

 

@Frames is correct. I had same problem with my Halibrand, replaced the seal and still had the leak. Ended up cutting a gasket the same diameter of the washer and no leaks since. Frames solution probably easier than mine.

 

Today, I pulled the driveshaft to get a better look at where the oil is coming from. When I removed the center bolt and large washer, the spines were dry. However, when I removed the yoke, oil came pouring out. Also, I see no evidence of a breather hole in the Halibrand case, it is labeled as a model 201, if that makes a difference. See photos at the link below:

http://53chevy.rfk.sent.com/Halibrand/

 

I’m surprised to see a V8 size quicky under a fat Chevy pickup. But anyway, there should be a vent installed in one of the axle housing tubes, not the aluminum housing. If you don’t find one, put one in. It’s common for the vent to actually be the attaching bolt for the brake line junction block.

 

As for the breather I always put a breather in the left tube a few inches out from the bell is welded to the tube.

 

The vent wouldn't be on the center section, it would normally be on top of one of the bells, maybe half way along.
Ive tried to find more info, but its thin. I did find this tho
https://www.project33.com/article.cfm?ID=132
I know the shop that built mine drilled and tapped a bell, and screwed a vent in

 

I've not had that experience with the 201 but just because I don't work on that many of them.
Definitely seal the splines to the yoke.
I have had 301s that wouldn't stop leaking until they had a speedy sleeve installed, even though they didn't show any signs if wear.
Be sure to grease the seal before installing the yoke. A dry start up will knock the edge off.

 

It is an interesting 53 Chevy. The guy who started its hotrod resto mod has passed away, but he acquired the Halibrand, a McCulloch supercharger from a 57' Studebaker, a Vertex magneto, and a 4 speed tranny from a 67 Camaro and a T&F shifter. I have done a full restore, but want to keep all these unique parts.

I have no talked to Brian Bass here in Dallas. The culprit for all my leaking isn't coming from the splined shaft, rather it is dripping through the sides of the shaft bearing. Check out the photos at this link and you can see the oil dripping out constantly.

http://53chevy.rfk.sent.com/Halibrand/

 

That bearing should have seals on both sides. Also, install it with RTV on the outside. You still might need a speedy sleeve and new seal.

 

In order to get this rig to a car show on Saturday without it draining all over the street, I have a new seal on way, should be here tomorrow, and then I am going to RTV the crap out of that bearing and see if I can stem the flow of gear oil for a bit.