Featured Technical HAMB friendly car value

A 41 is basically a 46-8 with weird front sheetmetal. They can be lowered easily with flatter springs and a dropped axle. No need to hack out the front crossmember. Could remove the spacer thing in the rear crossmember to get a little lower, but would require a bit of reshaping for the spring to fit back in. Still easier than switching out the whole rearend for a 9”.

 

$17,500 was all the money and then some. Title issues, glass fenders, roof insert (not a kid's game) and unknown running condition. Take the 'W' here, lots of baggage attached. A good 36 5w is a money car so you had to look but money car or not the peripheral issues suck the enthusiasm outta you like a mosquito. No offense, but clearly you seem new or green at this. But know this, we're here for you. Ask. Ask again. Search. Read. Maybe you have already, but I'd also recommend you look at what they all were in stock condition vs hot rod. More and more original parts are needed and more and more people getting in the pond. As always, buy the best car available for your budget to start with.

 

I wouldnt say I am "green" at this, just to cautious I think. I think I am to busy sometimes looking at all the faults to see what it could be, but I am unwilling to go upside down in a car by spending to much on the buy and and after to get it done.

My parameters are as good as a car that I can afford at $20k all in. So its got be worth that when I am finished. Looking for a not chopped up, rusted out, piece. Looking for original mostly. either well taken care of or decent restoration. Obviously only certain years and models fall into that category and I dont mind going and looking at something. I learn something every time and the help on here is appreciated.

The 41 is starting to grow on me and I have been putting a rough estimate together of realistically what it would cost to finish and make a driver out of. That cars not going to be a $20k car when its done, probably more like a $10-15k car. Its just not as desirable as a earlier or later coupe.

 

Kool, you "get it" more than it may seem. I have a 39 Std Tudor. Lots of original and few modern add on things. 36-40 buys a lotta nice cars that are close to or done for 20K in tudor body styles. Coupes jump up at least 25% or more for comparable cars. Of course the best you can for the money always applies. Another bit? Don't settle-for. If your heart is set on a 36 coupe you'll be a little while looking in that range. 40 coupe? Their creeping up there too, but I've seen some pretty nice cars for not much over that budget. Best wishes...

 

Depends where youget the car wedt coast cost more than midwest and east, I'd offer 12 to 15K and see what happens.

 

You are wrong about the X's. Late 35's have the X. My 35 has them.

 

Again, fine. However, if you have one without the "X", you know you have a '35. It's a good thing to know, particularly in cases like this when so many things have been changed. There are many indicators like this across lots of car lines that have been very useful in the past. Ignore them if you wish; it's no skin off my nose.

 

I don't have a particular car that I am stuck on, mostly late 30's to late 40's. Leaning towards mostly stock flathead power but wouldn't rule out something with a sbc if it was done well, but prefer a standard transmission.

My plan for the car would be a dependable driver for the weekends and just general use around town and to my inlaws river house about an hour and a half away. The "dream" (which is probably unrealistic) would be one day to drive out west (maybe Bonneville, Pikes Peak, etc) or north to Tennessee, North Carolina, North Georgia (more realistic maybe) to visit friends.

I am leaning more towards a 40's tudor sedan. I feel like the extra space would be nice to have and I have always liked the looks of one lowered. Hunting around on the web I happen to come across this one that went to auction at the end of last year. I really like the stance and exterioir appearance. I don't care for the interior treatment but looks like it would have been something that could have been changed. Looking at the auction it sold for $11k which seems to be inline with what I think the value is. I actually think this one should have brought a little more, but I don't know what auction fees are involved.



https://www.hagerty.com/marketplace/auction/1946-Ford-Deluxe/ff4d2e50-befd-42f1-80f4-37cee09a6f4d

 

I've seen some very, very nice 46-48 Tudor sedans sell for very reasonable money. I think if you like those, you'll be able to find something extremely nice and clean for well under 20K.

 

For the type of driving you describe you want to do short and especially long term Id be focussed on a car with a SBC or 302 etc. Or be prepared to fit one.

 

That’s kinda what I think. The $20k budget is if I came across a more desirable/valuable car. Something like the 35/36 coupe that this thread started with.

 

It seems like that would probably be the best. And maybe an open driveline conversion as well to get a better rear axle and ratio. The trick seems to be to either find one already done that’s not a hack job, or start with a stocker and drive it for a while then make the change.

 

vs small Honda SUV or Toyota Prius

Hello,

When our toddler granddaughter was in this mode of waving to her neighbor and his rumbling custom Ford Falcon Convertible as he drove by, there was a spark in her eye. So, I immediately thought of a second car for our garage. Instead of buying a new station wagon, how about a nice 1940 Ford Sedan for our daily cruises and road trips?

We had looked at this green 1940 Ford Sedan, locally.

It had the stuff we would have put on a hot rod build. SBC motor auto transmission, A/C and a nice interior. At the time we were in the market for a second car, new or not. So, we ventured out to see this sedan. The price was good and by the time we got to the location, it was sold.

It would have been fun to roll up to her school for daily pick up, off to soccer practices, birthday parties and dance practices in the green SBC powered 40 Ford Sedan. But, her parents said… “no way will she ride in that old car…” in so many words… ha!

Jnaki

So, here we are again. 15 years later and up pops almost a similar 1940 Ford Sedan with all of the stuff we would have put on in a build, anyway. So, the thought was there and we may venture forward to go see it in person. The cost is relative as it took time to build correctly and with the great parts used, is what we would have done, anyway. If the old sedan in original condition was 20k, add 20k more and you have a nice sedan for all driving needs. The alternative of spending the same amount on a small SUV listed above.

What happened to our granddaughter by the time she was ready to get a car for high school? Well, her parents wanted a tank for her safety…ha … like old times for concerned parents. But she chose a simple good gas mileage 4 door sedan. What happened to the hot rod styling? Well, it, too moved on into art drawings and history. Now, she is in college and can park her daily driver anywhere without anyone giving it a second look, so, there is that. Well, other than catalytic converter thieves... YRMV

An old thread/post:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...re-going-forward.1191837/page-3#post-13556107

 

Look up Jason Bell on here he has a 41 for sale in the classifieds. I don’t know how to do a link. I have seen the car and it’s in your price range.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1946-ford-coupe.1333368/

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1942-ford-sedan-7500-obo.1325161/

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...sale-price-lowered-motivated-to-sell.1311788/

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1948-ford.1297632/

Some others. I also like a 2 door sedan over a coupe in the post war era, I just included a few things close to price and years.The earlier cars, especially the 38-40 are going to have a higher value. You should be able to find a 46-48 sedan.
As @theHIGHLANDER said, find what tickles your fancy, it will happen. Get to know the cars, look at any and all in your area, and keep searching.

 

https://www.autotempest.com/results?make=ford&zip=32055&radius=500&minyear=1946&maxyear=1948
A few at dealers (watch yourself!) and listings for private cars, too.
This one looks and sounds nice. It's over your budget a bit. This is what you want to look over to compare. Be honest with sellers, though. If you are shopping not buying, let them know.
https://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/d/rutledge-1946-ford-super-deluxe/7839685855.html

 

Definitely looks to be ones out there in my budget. Down side is the distance, but there isnt much you can do about that.

Did see a mostly original 41 sedan pop up today at $10,750 thats about 4 hours away.

I guess I need to research more on the drivelines to determine which way I would want to go. If the stock flathead isnt going to be the best way to go then I have to factor in the cost of switching everything out or looking only for cars that have been changed. I like the idea of the flathead, but if the reliability or driveabilty isnt good then I may need to change my focus.

 

1. If this one is still available the seller would probably drop the price into your range.https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...place_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks I'm amazed at the number of people who think stock flatheads from 39 up are unable to function on todays highways. My last stocker was a 47 tudor that I drove all over the western states at freeway speeds. Only modification was dual Brockman mufflers that gave it a better sound than my other cars at the time. I had no problem cruising 70 for long distances. Stock 59AB, 3speed and 3.78 rear end with no OD. The only problem with the car is that it took a long time to sell and I had to drop the price significantly below what I paid for it but I was out of room.

 

There is a post about a member who bought a 41 stock and his journey to get it reliable and freeway worthy. I can't locate it right now, he's in San Diego, but I can't remember his handle. Last post was before mid January.
You mentioned that it would be a local car, but might later go long distance. As @klawockvet mentions, a stock drivetrain will get you there. It may not be as fast, as reliable and as easy to stop and get parts for. That's your call.
Buying stock and rodding it is going to be more money than buying already converted unless you do all the work and can find the bargains.

 

I dont know if you remember me or not, but I came by and looked at your 47 when we had come out west for a vacation a few years ago.

I dont have the operational experience with an early flathead car to say ya or nay on it. Just kinda going off of recommendations from others. I dont have any problems working on them.

 

I would like to see that. I will try to search for it.

 

Look for threads that will help you learn. Here's one.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1948-ford-mild-custom-mild-hot-rod.1330584/

 

I've got to say it... the 41 Ford is just flat ugly. It's such a letdown from the 39s and 40s. This is just my opinion, some people like them.
I would look for a later 46 - 48 with a later drivetrain. Just keep looking, you'll find something!

 

I love the 47-48 don't like the 46 blinkers but you can always move them

 

Decided to focus on the 46-48 tudor sedan as that is mostly what I am drawn to. Either with the flathead or sbc. It seems to be about equal on the fh vs sbc drivability / reliability from members here. Obviously some of its going to be on how well its been maintained and built. I have no issues working on either and have my own shop at home with a 2 post lift. I would want to lower it similar to the one in the picture above. Been researching the different ways to achieve that and the cost associated. The other issues I would need to know the most about is the brakes and whether the standard 4 wheel drums are adequate? Or worth upgrading the front to disc?

With all that said I found a 47 sedan that is a mix of stock and modified. It is supposed to have a 50 Mercury flathead with Offy heads, Holley 4 barrel, and a Schneider cam. It looks like its got a separate oil filter adapter plumbed in with a spin-on style filter. And its been changed over to 12v. So I need to do some research on that. Let the hunt continue.

 

did you try the whats it worth section....lol