Hamber's that Surf......roll call......

i spent a long time on the west coast from tj to sanfran, live in alabama and i chase hurricanes in the gulf when they show up. surfed the maypoles to canaveral on the gold coast, my cousin and i surfed sebastian inlet in 85, his home break, with a grom kid named kelly slater. he was an annoying little shit, but he damn sure kept his word.

 

Umm... when the waves at Hampton Beach get over knee high and water temp is at least 50 degrees, I sometimes try to catch a few in the summer months.

 

surf... bodysurf.

 

I windsurf................ LUKESTER

 

Right on.....Creeper Larry, that sounds good to me. I think it'd be cool to have a meet up, but that's a pipe dream, it would never happen. too many schedules and too much stuff gets in the way. But, now I can plot these names on a Ca. map and when I'm gonna be down there, I'll holler and we can
go surf. Anyone else? I have seen countless vintage photos from the 40's and 50's with hotrods in the parking lot or surfboards hangin' out the back of an old mordor. Where's the Santa Cruz contingent, I know there's more than a couple
of you out there....how can you live in S.C. and NOT surf?
haha..
I have heard and seen evidence of the great lakes surfing. I have actually seen head high waves in pics before.
As far as you Texans.....I have seen nice looking a-frames in pics from the Corpus Christie area...road trip...whens it get good?

 

Car9, that looks like the north side of Rincon Point to me. The break called County Line that I'm familiar with is a short hop north of Malibu, at the LA/Ventura county line. (right across PCH from Neptune's Net.) Rincon is near the Ventura/Santa Barbara county line, I don't know if there's a break called county line in that area though..

Damn Chad, looking at those pics again makes me feel so damn dehydrated. Time for a board meeting.

I'm in town all week if any of you local pukes wanna paddle out.. I have an extra board. 10'1" log.

Farmer John, Any time you're in the LA area...


I do a little surf photography too.

 

hey shortbus is that a pic of a wave overtaking you?
I'm gonna call you one these days how cold is the water down at oldmans?

 

yep, the lip came down on my head. I swim out when I'm shooting. It's easier to duck oncoming surfers. I like to get in close.

the water is usually in the mid-50s this time of year. you'll want to bring your full suit.

c'mon! I'm around all week.

 

I surf...but it's on snow. The drive to WA's surf spots is more than I can bare. But lots of mountains are only 1-2 hrs. away.

 

Every chance I get to San Diego from this damn desert! OB and its double duty is where I cut my teeth many years ago.

 

Just earlier tonight i was drooling over the new issue of "Surfers Journal" dreamin of warmer days....

 

......check out this video clip........

http://www.surfline.com/video/windowsmedia/slvideopop1.htm

 

Yeah I surf. Well attempt it anyway. I did surf at Bondi Beach in NSW Australia. The water was cold and the board was way too short for me, but I got up a few times. I'm more of a wanna be, but there ain't many crashing waves in the DESERT.

 

I surf when ever possible- longboard- eastcoast style- st.augustine, matanzas, sebastian, spanish house, patrick AFB, ect-

 

I saw a really bitchin' movie at our local "giant super bohemoth screen" theatre earlier this year called "Stepping Into Liquid". It's a documentary that covers a whole bunch of different aspects of contemporary surfing with killer cinematography. Surfing from Hawaii, California, Ireland, Great Lakes, you name it. Killer footage of a guy riding a 66 foot wave at the Cortez Banks 100 miles of the coast of San Diego. The Cortez Banks are basically an underwater mountain that creates giant waves out in the middle of the ocean. Very cool flick, definately worth checking out.

 

[ QUOTE ]
Car9, that looks like the north side of Rincon Point to me. The break called County Line that I'm familiar with is a short hop north of Malibu, at the LA/Ventura county line. (right across PCH from Neptune's Net.) Rincon is near the Ventura/Santa Barbara county line, I don't know if there's a break called county line in that area though..


[/ QUOTE ]

The above pic is looking south at County Line/Rincon Point on a flat and rainy day.
In fact, we spent the day in the roadster running the coast in a light rainstorm doing a little photo safari.
Fun stuff, even when the two guys on Harleys went sliding by.
Real Harleys too, two wheeled hot rods, no windscreen, no fairing, bare bones stuff, leather jackets and tough it out.
Anyway, the above pic was taken from the overlook at the top of the Carpinteria grade.
An interesting area, the Carpinteria Thunder Bowl used to be up there and the midget races were something else.
A few years later they started racing jalopies - my dad's muffler shop owning friends ran a Deuce 5 window with GMC power and did well - and not much too longer after the jalopies were running, the Thunderbowl shut down.

Rincon Point is the legit name for the area pictured above, but Venturans and other locals know it as County Line Beach.
Out of towners may call the area 'Rincon', but Rincon to locals encompasses the whole beach starting from just north or west - however you want to look at it - of the Rincon railroad bridge which is a couple of miles north or west of Ventura and ends at the Ventura/Santa Barbara county line at the bottom of Carpinteria Grade. The north or west gets confusing cuz you gotta go west to go north, but if you say west, northbound folks get confused. Clear?
Rincon is Spanish for Corner, Nook or Narrow Valley.

I'm familiar with Neptunes Net.
It's usually on our schedule of roadster driving events after the Fillmore 4th of July car show.

The pic below is of us heading south to Neptunes Net a couple of years back.
Just north of Mugu Rock and next to Point Mugu Naval Air Weapons Station.

County Line beach noted as such by no less a group of luminaries than the Beach Boys.
A quote from their song, Surfin USA - "Ventura County Line...."

I mean if the Beach Boys didn't know ... who would?

 

Why do I allways get in on the end of these things? I started surfing in 1952. I lived next door to Dewy Weber at the time, he was 14 I think and had an old simmions balsa board named sylvester. I still surf all the time but since I started my rod I seem to go to work on it instead of going to the beach. If you are ever in Redondo Beach you might go to the pier you can see a sculpture of George Freeth the man that may have been the first surfer in California. I sculpted that bust in the seventys The Beach Boys were kooks. I've surfed just about everv brake from Ensanada Mex. to Santa Cruze Calif.. I got the name Pogo from my surf buddys. Sandman is an exsurfer having moved to Texas alltho he clames he'll fly to Mexico to surf ever other month. Any way His boards will make good coffee tabels. Pogo

 

Pogo

That's your sculpture...? "WOW"..! I've got pictures of it ...! When did you do that sculpture?

There's a lot of talent on this board...!

Mark

 

Pogo...
Much respect to you for your sculpting talent and surf history background....
As for the foto...!
That's EXACTLY the sort of mental pic I carried during my night riding trips at Matagorda Beach,Tx....
I think our Gulf coast sharks delight in ingesting lost bales.....

 

Holy crap, that's a scary pic!! I think I just pee'd my pants...

 

I surf on the rare occasion (4-6 times a year), but not enough to call myself a "surfer". As as for that pic, it reminds me of one that I sawin a book a long wile back, I of a guy ridding in and this huge gapping mouth comming out of the wave right behind him. CREEPY.

 

C9 your makin me miss the left coast with that pic...i lived in redondo beach and my girl lived up in santa barbara so i did that drive about 2 or 3 times a week...nothin better than PCH on a clear warm night just cruisin

 

By the way, that pic looks like dolphin in the wave and not a shark. If you look closely you can see that the dorsal fin has a pronounced radius in it, unlike the more triangular shape of a sharks. Also if you look twords the back of the body, it looks like a faint silouete of a fluke and not a verticle tail fin like a shark would have.

 

I grew up on the Mornington Penninsula (Vic,AUS) and surfed at the Portsea back beach (ocean) but that was 30 years ago.
Visited earlier this year and tried again but this fat gut
came out with his trunks hangin, around his ankles and a
belly full of saltwater. I,m 50 now so I,ll just build sand castles in future. By the way, if thats a dolphin it,s a bloody big one. ps, That is real sand.

 

It's a killer whale (orca), but still a great pic.
I haven't surfed since about 1978.

 

The picture is of a dolphin, my son sent us a picture that was taken the same day (in fact several pictures) and the photographer had lots of shots of it in that vicinity the some day that the posted picture was taken. Sure gives you something to think (dream/nightmare) about though doesn't it.

Frank

 

The black&white dolphins I remember seeing weren't much bigger than a bottlenose. (Flipper) Still, could be I guess.
The other great internet shot is the one of the frogman hanging from the helecopter with the great white shark jumping out of the water. I'd put it up but I can't seem to find it right now.

 

I shared one with a porpoise one day at 'C Street' in Ventura. I was still learning and as a goofy-footer, was having a hell of a time going right on the point break. As I'm paddling into one (head-high peelers), I look to my right and see a dorsal sticking out of the top of the wave about 30ft down the line. A pod had been hanging around that day so I already knew what it was.. When I got to my feets (now facing away from him) I finally managed a somewhat smooth booty-side turn, took a couple of steps toward the nose and started heading his way.
As I started to catch up, his fin dipped underwater then he jumped clean out of the face of the wave did a half flip and dropped right back in -still about 15ft ahead. I promptly wiped out to a round of hoots from the lineup.

And that was my best wave EVER.

oh, and I saw an 8ft+ shark at San O once. at Trail 1 below the nippular power plant. Since they only eat shortboarders, we stayed.

 

This past August I went boogie boarding south of Crystal Pier in San Diego. I was out about even with the end of the pier waiting for a wave with a couple of other boogie boarders when I noticed a big fin 10-15 feet behind me. It scared the hell out of me at first, then I realised it was a porpoise. The next thing I knew, there were about 10 of them all around us. That was really cool, but at the same time kinda scary. Those suckers look huge when your in the water with them, and they sure could have pummeled the hell out of us if they had a mind to.