In one of the Bruce Brown films ( I think its in Barefoot Adventure ) they are showing some guys in Rincon and in one of the waves is a huge shadow of a shark, like a 12 footer. It looked pretty scary. I used to go to Rincon every now and again , mainly I just surfed at the state beaches exit in Ventura. I had a 9'4" Hap Jacobs, lots of fun at that little point break. Man, just thinking that was a long time ago, Ive not been surfing since 1999.
Hell yeah! Up here in the SF Bay it's seal and sea lion breeding time (Sept-Nov/Dec). Great Whites galore for a couple of months... big-ass ones too (16-18+ ft). There's been AT LEAST 8 sightings at Ocean Beach (SF) in the last two months. It takes some guts to surf around here the next couple of months. Half-Moon Bay, Bolinas, Stinson Beach, Ocean Beach, etc... Good luck everyone... -ns
I go every chance I get, I'm from Wilmington NC so I would go everyday before, and sometimes after work. I live near Charlotte NC now so I usually make it down a few times a year, I ride a 9' hooptie from Proline, which is the local shaper out of Hotwax surf shop there in town... This is... I mean WAS my '64 falcon beach runner I had for a while, dropped 2", 170 sixer with a split header and straight pipes. Made all kinds of cool sounds...
nice ride SIK now thats not W.B. or C.B in the pics... going to look at a country squire on fri.....mint O.G. Im friggn stoked.... you always forget how you are the SMALL fish in the BIG pond until you see a GREAT WHITE in the line up.... NOR-CAL guys are BADASSES....period
I don't surf but have 3 boards I have purchased from pawn shops while on vacation. Who wants to send me a sticker from their local surf shop? I have a vintage cooler that I need to fill up more. PLEASE PLEASE Yeah I'll pay for it. PM me and I'll send my address. later,Bill
was down there a couple of weeks ago, 2-4' nice and warm (for us norcal folk)...so warm I had to rewax my board cause my cold temp wax was melting off. Surfed Cardiff reef, Swamis and did the long walk to Boneyards. 9'10" Bing Goldstandard.
Thanks 31... yeah thats Carolina beach... JUST before you cross into Kure Beach, thats the peir on past the boardwalk.
Trestles was going off about September 3rd. Norcal is a different breed all together. I hate South OB/ South Sloat.
I surf 2 to 3 times a week. When I am in LA it is Palos Verdes, El Porto, Venice, and Malibu mostly. Now that I am back and forth from LA, when I am Wilmington, Nc it is mostly Wrightsville Beach (15 minute drive). Check out www.surfcarolinamagazine.com. I had head high sets Sat am. It is funny how many people in CA think there is no surf here. Check out the site. If anyone wants to work at a hot rod shop where we stop and surf anytime it is good, get in touch. Also you make the same as in LA, but you can afford to buy a house with a garage and a hot rod for what you can make at my shop if you are good. And raise a family. In LA if you make twice what I can pay, you have to rent and have no money or time left over. If anyone is passing through and wants to share some waves, look me up. Wil www.sakowskimotors.com 310 978 9558
I surf whenever its good. Usually surf sandbridge or the north end in virginia beach or down in buxton on occasion. been building boards for 9 years. Typically build traditional longboards. Anyone wanna trade some 51 ford parts for boards let me know! thanks, Austin www.austinsurfboards.com
Swami's ain't got nuthin on the great north........big waves, big sharks, dykes on longboards, kooks on weekends, cold water, fog so thick you can't see the beach from the lineup, 2,000 lb. seals that pop up to bark at you from three feet away.....I love it up here. Here's a few pics to back up my shit talkin'.....these are just a few of the many epic days of fall in Norcal that i surfed. most of these days pictured were overhead, the one of the big a-frame is about 20 foot, and some just head high. sometimes alone or with only 3 or 4 other guys out- the kid is my son Kris- a couple of shots from when we'd go out on an early morning surf check- the sunset pic is from oceanside pier in socal- the guy on the board is yours truly, out till it got dark on a good day
yeah... but not in the ocean this is one of my favorite places in the world to surf just northeast of winnepeg canada...
I started at 9yrs old. Seal Beach was the place for me,til I started driving. Then it was Hunington Beach,Tressels,Santa Barbera a few times,but the cliffs at Golden West was where I ended up most of the time. Been about 15 yrs since I went out. I always knew when I finally got a Merc,that I would probably give up surfing...
Tressels Rules. Nor Cal is epic but I don't like surfin in a parka Too bad that Mexico is more dangerous than it used to be. Southern Baja was amazing.
My surfing days ended after a friend and I were floating at Rockaway in Pacifica and a Seal decided to pop up on to the front of his board and began to "Bark"!!!!!!!!!! I nearly shit my suit!!!!!! I could handle the cold, the current, and the violent undertow and pitch black water but I just couldn't get past the phoebia of being ripped in half by an 18' foot plus maneater!!!!! Farmer, share some stories about the times you've had "That Feeling". Dirty
I have a 6'8'' swallow tail but my friend has a 9'6'' you could literally surf a pool with that thing lol
I've been known to hit a few. Hawaii, Mexico, Costa Rica. 9'6 Ole. Shaped by Bob Olsen, 78 years young.
I don't get out much these days, but I used to surf a bit ten years or so ago. There is nothing like it, and I completely understand those folks who just dump everything to surf their lives away.
Yeah, for years after i had been surfing norcal area at times i'd feel like i was being watched or something and always ignored it, telling myself i was just freaking myself out...wrong. about 6 years ago i was out at Bolinas (north of san fransisco in marin county) surfing a left up there at their little harbour entrance that goes off on a solid south swell. had a great session with 4 of my friends, sun was going down and we were heading in. I decided to wait for the next set- about 5-6 minutes between sets, no big deal. i was the only one out at this point, and i'm just in a good mood, waiting to catch one in. I noticed my friends yelling at me and pointing back towards the little harbour area, but didn't see anything. they kept yelling, so finally i turn around to see a fin sticking up out of the water about a foot & 1/2 high coming right towards me out the channel where the take-off spot is. i fuckin freaked out. just frozen. i couldn't move or nothing- the worst kind of fear, that makes you say goodbye to your loved ones under your breath cause you think you're gonna die. i sat there on my short-board with my body from my waist down under water just waiting for it. It was a great white- "the Landlord" as we know him in these parts. The thing just cruised right past me like i wasn't even there about 8 feet away from me. It was every bit of 15' maybe longer. It's gut had to be 5' across. I could see it's eyes, mouth, scars, everything. I thought i was going to have a damn heart attack right there. Crazy thing was this- all the years before when i'd had that "feeling"....like it was time to get out of the water- well, I had that Same feeling that day. Now i know all along what that feeling was. Scary to think i stayed out in the water at Davenport, Waddell Creek, Pedro Point, Montara, Ross's Cove....and have had that feeling and ignored it. Not anymore. and No, i don't surf Bolinas anymore. I'd seen sharks several times before at some known sharky spots, but they were always way outside, not that day. that was fucked.
I had surfed as a kid on long Island NY, Gilgo, Ditch Plains, Fire island. Gave it up when I had a major knee reconstruction done in '82. I could probably still do it, just didn't trust the knee from then on. I do still body surf, was in the water at Robert Moses last week catching some 5 footers and some surprisingly strong 2-3 footers. I've been doing that since 1963 or so and will always be in the surf. I start in May and try to go into late November. The water is warm, the air is what cools off first. The wildest place I have ever body surfed was The Wedge at Huntington Beach, a truly treacherous place! I was amazed at the amount of people who were in the water that day. Bob
A fellow boater/HAMB'er.... get the hell out of here!!! Most of my granola munchin' buds don't get it.. how 'bout yours? Nice Olds... sporting some boats no less
The Jalopy Journal
