hammertone paint

anyone know of a vendor for hammertone or hammer finish paint(like on old tool boxes),preferably a catalyzed type?

 

The local hardware store here sells hammertone paint in rattle cans but the only color I've seen is silver.I have a couple cans in the garage if you need the name of the mfr.I've used it and it works pretty good.Biggest thing I painted was a toolbox about 3'x12'x12'.

 

Check Home depot - they have rattlecans and used to sell quarts (haven't looked for a while). Not catalyzed though.

Mutt

 

Used two spray can types on fixtures around the shop

Hammerite Web site

Rustoleum Hammered metal finish Web site

Both have held up great.

 

thanks for the quick replies and links.
what i had in mind is painting some steel wheels in a hammered finish,and was thinking a catalyzed would hold up better.
if anyone should stumble across something of this sort,sing out.
thanks again.

 

As long as the wheels are free of wax and crud,you shouldn't have any durability problem.I'd scuff 'em with a gray scruffy pad dipped in wax and grease remover(AFTER you degrease them or else the **** on the wheels will be ground into the base),dry 'em off and squirt 'em.Best way I've found is to build a few lights coats rather than do a balls to the wall one coat and get snotters all over the place.Also the hammertone effect increases as the paint dries so if it don't look like it's working,don't load more paint on;give it time.
You can do them on the car by making a template to cover the tire.Only bad feature of this is cleaning and drying is harder.To make a template,measure the diameter of the rim at the outermost part of the lip,get a piece of cardboard(posterboard is cheap and works well)and scribe a circle on the board approximately 1/4" SMALLER than the measurement.Cut out the center and then cut the remaining piece in half so you can slide it under the lip of the wheel.Use a piece of masking tape to cover the cuts and spray away!If it doesn't seem as if the mask is laying down,remove it and spray some cheap hairspray on the back of the board and re-attach.It makes a good low tack adhesive and won't leave any residue.

 

If you want to make it indestructable, bake it. Baking also gives a better hammer finish, and makes the clear smooth out on top. You don't want to use your only oven though - it's best done with and old one. After baking, you can wipe it with thinner without problems. I used it on my rear axle.

Dan

 

<font color="purple"> I used the Rustoleum version on my grill surround. It was right over the last 2 spraypaint jobs I did on it. No prep and it has held pretty well over 3 years now. Just a few rock chips. </font>

 

Eastwood sells it in rattle-cans.

 

thanks again folks.
i plan on baking the existing powder coat finish off the wheels at the powder coating place,then blast,prime and paint.
have to figure out a way to bake on that new finish.
the powder coating ovens would be too hot!
i'll figger it out.
thanks.

 

Stealthcruiser - I checked with a friend who taught me about the baking - let the paint flash for about an hour to get the solvent out, and then bake at 150 deg. for about 40 minutes. It smoothes the surface and makes the hammertone curdle into a better design under it. Silver shows the best. Some of the other colors really don't show a lot of the hammertone. You'd have to experiment with the colors to see what I mean.

 

If you're only heating it at 150°, maybe aim some 1500W spotlights on it?


Ed

 

We tried using body shop heat lamps, but they don't distribute the heat as well as an oven, and you get a splotchy finish. It would probably work on small pieces though, like brackets.

Dan