Would it be a crime to hang drywall sheets, 4' x 8', vertically instead of horizontally? I've been reading about installing them horizontally provides more strength vs. vertically. But the way the 2' x 4's studs are oriented, installing them horizontally would require me to cut the ends of the sheets to make it land on a stud so it can be butted against another. Then, that second butted sheet would also have to be trimmed because it would end up on a stud. I hate working with butt joints when taping/joint compounding them. By installing the sheets vertically, I would be working with more joints, but they would be beveled, much easier to work with to get smooth finishes. Comments?
no its not a crime.....drywall is hung vertical in commercial applications on metal framing as the norm on wood frame , i still prefer to hang horizontal.....but whatever works for you i'm gonna tell , your in big trouble
how tall is the wall if its 8 feet or less no problem if its more the you will have to cat the bays remember too leave the board about a half inch off the floor for moisture but put metel flashing behind it in case welding or cutting slag get in there...no fire
imo insulate , moisture barrier .. less joints the better ceiling first stagger joints to help avoid cracks visit www.garagejournal.com
My barn has 12 ft side walls with studs 24" O.C...I hung my drywall vertically. Just screwed it in at the top, trimmed it at the bottom with my rotozip, and finished screwin off. I did it vertically because I was wrestling 12 ft sheets by myself and I hate dealing with the butt-end seams. Hanging vertically left me with only the tapered side seams to play with. I'm no muddin expert, but it looks very good for a shop.
Hell, a "TRUE Traditional" guy would be out under a big shade tree or freezing his ass off under the car in the driveway during a blizzard.......least that's the way I seemed to have to do it when I was young & dumb. Now, however I'm OLD & dumb, so.....
vertically is perfectly fine and yes remember the metal flashing and such don't want no mold we use moisture/vapor barrier and then hang the sheets rotozip the bottom 1/4 inch off and install metal flashing then let the tapers do there thing. Mostly I hang vertical cause I do commercial metal stud work but either way is perfectly fine.
Been doin it for 20 years. Doesn't matter. Once you tape it,it looks the same. I prefer to stand it up,cause it's easier. Here's a tip though. Insulate it and put a vapor barrier(plastic)first. Keeps it warmer and keeps out the moisture. I've done many garages. But if you don't hang a ceiling,drywall or T-bar,hanging the walls is useless. My favorite ceiling is t-bar. I did one for a guy and painted the t-bar red,with black and white tiles. Best results ever!
Hahaha Well, sorry to be off topic, but I sure know whwre you are coming from! I remember having to change a tranny in my teens with no jack, I drove the car up on a sidewalk on one side and laid in the torrential downpour "river" in the side of the road while I put in bolt after bolt.... A drywalled garage was for the rich guys!
I've done a few projects, I like going horizontal, it seems easier to "mud" the walls, but either way works fine.
OSB is running around $5 a sheet - if its painted and got all kinds of tools hanging on it you can't tell the difference from 20'.
I just measured my ceiling and I figured it's gonna take me about 18 sheets of what ever to cover the joists. I was looking into OSB due to cost beings I'm a cheap bastard. If I run insulation and the vapor barrior as normal, anyone see any reason I should use 1/4" OSB? This would dramatically cut me costs. I have the ceiling and one wall in my 2 car garage to finish off. The other two walls were already drywalled when I moved in. I have a furnace that is suppose to be hooked up some time this week or next, so I'd like to get moving on this ceiling. I really can't wait to get this stuff done. For obvious reasons of having the heat, but also for having the ceiling painted WHITE. Man that will really make that place brighten up. What do you guys think. Vance
I'm using 5/8 fire rated, about a dollar a sheet more, but if it saves the garage incase of a small fire its worth every penny more that it cost.
This seems odd to me. Are the studs framed 16"/24" O.C.? If so, the layout will work either way. If the layout is all screwy, you would have to rip the sheets to fit vertically,harder to trim than horizontal. Hang them horizontal. If you run a 6" wide mud strip on each side of the taped butt joint, you create a recess thats easy to fill.
Isn't it easier to tape a horizontal joint compared to a vertical joint? The vertical joint you'll be on a ladder up to the ceiling for every one.
I'm pretty frugal too. Check the cost of the cheapest metal roofing. Even check for leftovers and mistakes. I think it's painted white on the backside. Put it up as a ceiling with screws and it'll be prepainted. No mud work and it would be easy to keep clean. The ribs are strong enough to support insulation. I figured the cost for my garage. I have 2,200 sq.ft. and it would be about $1,000 using first quality stuff. Check around for pricing. There's a huge price range. Lowes and HD are expensive.
I recently went to a friend's place who did the metal roofing thing on the ceiling routine. He said that he'd never do it that way again because everytime the compressor kicks on his teeth's fillings start to rattle. Then he turned on the compressor to prove it. Within 12 seconds I had to walk out, and that was back when it was warm enough to have the big door open. I can't imagine how it is when it's all closed up like now. Great idea, but not with the compressor in the same area, and I really have no where else to put that thing right now. Vance
I put up peg board instead of drywall. Its much less expensive than drywall & taping, and as a bonus you can hang stuff easily. I insulated & put up a vapor barrior.
I do a lot of construction. Sheetrock is a good choice . easy to apply , alter, and repair. Hanging the sheets vertically is fine. Anyway that saves seams is acceptable . The backwall of my shop was done that way and saved me lots of time and materials. The priceof that stuff has sure skyrocketed though! Be grateful its not copper, I guess.
Another way to go is to use a 7/8" furring strip instead of metal or wood studs. they are installed 16" o.c. vertical / or 2 brick coarsings. Then use a foil-backed gypsum board which works also as a vapor barrier between the brick and the wall ( to prevent misture and mold build up). then you can hang the drywall any way you feel comfortable with minimal trimming, and will have enough support behind it to pevent any bowing in the drywall. but if you were to hang heavy items off the wall you will have to use wood to halp brace the items.
My dad put metal in the ceilng and it's awsome. So bright. He doesn't "over spend" on anything either j
Can't beat metal siding on the ceiling! It's water proof, Fire proof, and will span 2' and 4' spacing on your ceiling joists without sagging. It goes on fast and can be removed if you want to add insulation or wiring later. Add up the cost of drywall including taping and paint and metal is way cheaper (and lighter) at aprox .50 per square foot.
Actually, I just checked on the cost of the metal pricing; $3 a linear ft @38" wide. That will allow for overlap on each side so the span is really 36". So to cover 10' is about $30. That's 30 sq.ft for $30 compared to 32 sq.ft. for a 4X8 of dry wall or OSB. Dry wall is $8.75 for either 3/8" or 1/2" and OSB is running $5.99 for the 1/4" and $7.95 for the 1/2", all are Lowes prices. I know I can get a little better pricing on the drywall if I shop around, but we're only talking 5-10% per sheet. All this is really putting the metal out of reach of my budget. To do my 21X23 garage, I’ll be looking at around $400 with the metal. The drywall will put me at around $160, the ½” OSB just below that at around $144 and the ¼” OSB will land me around $108. The OSB is appealing to me because I like to hang things from the ceiling and I really don't want to mess with the mud. I know I won’t be able to hang much if I go with the ¼”, but I’d be the in the same boat as with the drywall. It looks like the ½” is my best bet for price and function. Now I gotta find some new friends to help hang this crap. 18 sheets is gonna get heavy quick! Vance
I did mine vertically with 5/8 gypsum. Standard 8' ceiling height. I was working under a permit and my county demands the 5/8 gyp as a fire barrier. They were sure heavy but I am glad I did it. You can rent a drywall lift for the ceiling for about $35.00 a day and do the job by yourself. I also bought that cheap ass drywall gun from Harbor Freight for $29.99 and it actually did a real god job. I rocked the walls and ceiling of a 24 x 36 garage by myself in less than two weekends. As far as your original question it makes no difference wether you do the walls vertically or horizontally. Vertically may bea couple sheets less with less scrap.
Oh sure, now mention the flashing at the bottom after I did my garage a couple of years ago. I see a retro fit coming. BTW I hung my drywall horizontal with staggered seams and dispensed with mudding by using caulk in the seams and then painting the whole works white. Enough junk on the walls already that it doesn't look bad for a garage.
Used drywall and OSB on mine. Bottom 4' is OSB then drywall on top of that. Didn't mud any seams used 1 x 2 furring strips over the seams including the ceiling
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