Hanging pedals

I bought a set from Reno Rods and am very happy with them. The kit was well-made and complete.

 

autozones rebuilt units are sleeved by a large co. in canada
am getting good results from mine on my A...
using one side to operate rear disc brakes
will use other side for front brakes...........
old ansen pedals installed in 1965

 

Here is another thought. These are Wilwood's from Speedway. This all conceals under and behind the stock '31 gas tank dash panel. Yea...filling them is a pain...but it is not hanging out and causing a distraction from the real important stuff.




And with the dash in place...

 

Thanks, I'll p*** it on. Tom...

 

A low buck option that should fit under there and be fairly easy to find is GM G-van pedal units, either the 71-96 or the 96-up. They'll take any master you want to use, I think you could even mess with one, turn it around, mount it with the bolts going up, whatever. The newer one the pedal is offset way to the right, which would get you clearance on the narrow A firewall for a master sticking right out over the motor. I don't think you could scratchbuild a pedal for the little bit I paid for the last one out of a junkyard.

 

Do you have a photo of the master cylinder? This set-up interests me.

 

Here is the pedal ***y I built for the early 60 GM truck master. Clutch cylinder is on the right, brake on the left so to have it work as GM intended I made a bellcrank for the clutch, Brake pedal pivits of the clutch pedal cross shaft, all work out pretty good.
FWIW these are going into a 27 RPU I'm building.

 

Metalman, Why didn't you just pull the guts out of the two master cylinder bores and switch them side for side? The bores are the same and it would have saved you all of that fabrication.

Frank

 

X2 - Yep... that's what I did on my roadster and it works great. A set of snap ring pliers and about 5 minutes is all it took.

 

I made a pair for my Son's truck. Has a t56 with hydraulic clutch. I used Fox body Mustang pedals with cable clutch in my truck. And have a Kugel set up in my Roadster it has a standard ****** too. They all work great and no problems out of any of them. Did some figuring on the ratio on the ones I made based on other pedals I had available to measure. Used bronze bushings from a farm supply and grade 8 bolts for pivots.

 

This was in the ba*****t at the detroit autorama. Super slick! Whole car was over the top.

 

The main reason I didn't swich the guts was the master has a big "brake" and "clutch" cast into the top of the cylinder and I didn't want people looking at that and thinking I can't read when they see the brake running down to the clutch slave! Plus it will keep the firewall cleaner looking, the hardlines will drop straight down to where they need to go without having to cross over.
In the long run it didn't really take much more fab time to make the crossover.

 

The main reason I didn't swich the guts was the master has a big "brake" and "clutch" cast into the top of the cylinder and I didn't want people looking at that and thinking I can't read when they see the brake running down to the clutch slave!
While it's apart swapping the guts, painting, etc., about 5 minuets with a file gets rid of the cast in words.

 

Ha Ha, geez. To be honest with you I never thought of that. Duh. Maybe because I'm not doing any painting/ detailing on this car, all that is up to the owner.

 

Next time you get to a wrecking yard take a look at a Subaru Legacy from aroun early 90's. The master, and pedal ***embly for either brake only, or brake and clutch is a hotrodders dream!
It bolts to a flat firewall and has bolts about 2" long, so if needed it can be modified for thicker walls. Pedal ***bly. has a built in brake sw. and a reservoir that's semi transparent to see fluid level, plus an idiot switch if you want to wire that in too. Pedal ***bly. is super clean and easily adapted to most rods. Has a nice small booster for power brakes.
It's also got 2 front ports and 2 rear ports on the dual cyl. so you can plug whatever you don't need and use either two straight down, or two out the side, or as I did run 1 ea out the front to both wheels, and only one to the rear axle, plugging the 4th outlet.
Bought mine for $35 for the master, booster, and pedals at a U pull it. Was super easy to make it work in my Austin g***er with a very close firewall to dash situation.
This is a pic of the master and booster on my firewall: