ok so i've really researched this and i'm getting close to doing it but here's another question (for my '52 chevy 2dr post that i will be chopping and turning into a hardtop) : once i weld the top of the door frame to the roof and eliminate the b pillar, what will guide the window inwards to seal against the hardtop style rubber window seal i will be installing. without the posts to guide the window, and with the floppy window track it seems that when i roll up the window it will be going straight up and not inwards to seal against the rubber. do you think i should fabricate some kind of guides inside the door? do i reuse the original track and mechanism? i know you guys can help me, you taught me about that whole Hirohata merc and every thing. so how did Barris and the boys do it? also where can i get the hardtop style rubber door seal? the boneyards here don't seem to have anything. thanx so much v8custom
Steele rubber can sell you the seal Use a window channel from the door of a 2dr HT or a Conv. Mount it so that it tilts the window inward a little as it rises so that it meats the top rubber. BB
Yes it is, it is about 15 inches long and bolts to the back portinon of the door, on a post door you will have to figure out the exact mounting position and drill mounting holes. If you look at a HT or Conv door that will give you and idea where the mounting holes have to be located. BB
You'll fill the opeing in the door top that held the gl*** channel. then mount a hardtop style seal that the door gl*** contacts without rolling UP OR INTO....that way the gl*** will swing open with door without rolling it down.... Also you will have a "taller" gl*** than actually needed [so it will stabilize itself at the top of its travel] I.E. a 9" height of "visable gl***" would result in -say 13" of actual gl*** height...the part of the gl***- hidden below-the beltline is sitting in the uprights that hold the channell run in the door [thus holding it in position] when rolled up all the way.
Hey v8, if you take the doortop and weld it to the roof, won't you have to lower the window slightly to open and close the doors? Would it work better to fab a channel open to the outside and let the inside of the gl*** rise to where it's touching a fuzzy type weatherseal (ala newer style hardtop cars)? jus' thinkin' out loud..... Daryl
What Shoprods said. In addition, you could make the gl*** run channels adjustable so that you have the ability to adjust the pressure that the gl*** has against the seal. The easiest way that I can think of to do this is to make a bolt that Is slotted on one end with a washer wleded to it (see illustration). The welded washer will allow the gl*** run channel to move in and out while keeping the slotted end of the bolt flush with the inner door sheetmetal. Another thing that you may want to consider is adding a couple of anti-rattle pads to the inner door. These would be under the garnish molding ans would press up against the gl*** to help stabilize it. Look at modern Subaru's. They have these little anti-rattlers. They are just little brackets with fuzzy stuff glued to them. In fact, it would probably give you some really good idea's if you go to the wrecking yard and look at the way Subaru has handled their frameless windows. The windows on most frameless windowed cars (hardtop or not) are a bit sloppy when the doors are open. They rely on a bit of pressure frome the seal to make them stable. If you are keeping the vent windows, they will help stabilize the gl*** as well. The Hirohata Merc. used a 5/8" chromed steel frame that went around the gl***. This frame did not roll down with the gl***, but rather it was attatched to the door and the gl*** rolled up into it (see the attatched picture). This allowed them to use the stock, albeit chopped, vent window. Chris
you guys freakin' ROCK! this is exactly what i needed to know. thanx so much! wish i found you guys 3 years ago! i'll let you know what happens v8
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