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has anyone ever rolled a new spring eye ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by hogbldr1, Dec 12, 2008.

  1. hogbldr1
    Joined: Nov 12, 2006
    Posts: 23

    hogbldr1
    Member
    from ohio

    I would like to know if anyone has ever rolled a new spring eye on an old spring.i am trying to build a quarter elliptic spring setup without buying a posies kit.
     
  2. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    Pretty sure the eyes are rolled hot.

    Most guys just drill a couple holes and bolt them together.
    Easy enough to bolt them to a plate, and weld a bushing on
    the end of the plate if you want a weight jacking screw.
     
  3. Ratrod37
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 276

    Ratrod37
    Member

    Any good spring shop can do it or if you can find a blacksmith.My local spring shop made me a new leaf spring with rolled ends out of flat stock.
     
  4. dwrfab
    Joined: May 21, 2006
    Posts: 407

    dwrfab
    Member
    from Dallas TX.

    If you want a 7/8", hole tack weld the end of the spring to a piece of 1/2" pipe or 7/8" tube. Heat evenly and pull around till you can just get a diegrinder in and cut the tacks. then heat and pull the spring on around to close the eye. hammer the tube out and allow to air cool. Do not water cool.
    dwrfab Don Ross
     
  5. gary terhaar
    Joined: Jul 23, 2007
    Posts: 656

    gary terhaar
    Member
    from oakdale ny

    Shortened my rear leaf spring more than once to get the right ride height.
    I used a 3/4 inch bolt and heated the ends red and no further,rolled the spring around the bolt in a vise.Best done with 2 people.one to keep the spring from walking and the other to squeeze.Used a spry bottle to spritz the spring when done only a mist,and let air cool.Watch your lead in angle,this being off will give different ride heights.
    I got the info here to get the correct spring length to have the shackles at a 45 degree. I found oe springs are best suited for a good ride as well as workability.
    Had a posie buggy and nomatter if i removed springs,angles ect.it was too stiff.used my oe,put new eyes for my app.and it works like a dream.
     
  6. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,401

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Have not done it yet, but you need to cut the end of the spring at an angle so when rolled it tucks into the start of the curvature.
    Take a close look a factory rolled spring and you will see what I mean.
    If you do that it should look good and tidy.
     
  7. 39cent
    Joined: Apr 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,569

    39cent
    Member
    from socal

    I was going to do that but then I decided to 're arch' the spring. Just put it over a couple of RR rails I and pounded the arch the other way. worked great, altho I my ears rang for a couple o days.
     
  8. 39cent
    Joined: Apr 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,569

    39cent
    Member
    from socal

    ohhh rearching isnt recommended for model A,s n T,s!
     
  9. Dreddybear
    Joined: Mar 31, 2007
    Posts: 6,152

    Dreddybear
    Member

    Why not? Not sarcastic, just asking. I reversed the rear main on my A spring. Curious.
     
  10. I did mine on a Model A, what's rhe problem?

     
  11. Front or rear? Front wouldn't be a problem, but I'd be a little nervous about trying to re-arch the rear spring with that extra bend in it.
     
  12. Dreddybear
    Joined: Mar 31, 2007
    Posts: 6,152

    Dreddybear
    Member

    It just takes a little longer...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Glad it worked for you. My rear spring has a much more pronounced "kink" in each leg about a third of the way down from the center. Your spring ended up with a little bit of the kink after reversing the arch but doesn't look like it had any before you started.
     

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