Has anyone here ran the Duntov 3030?

Hello all!
I am currently in the process of building a 327 for my hot rod. It has 10.4/1cr, Patriot 2168 heads, Summit Stage 2 aluminum intake and a 600 summit carb. I have not chosen a camshaft yet because im stuck between the howard cams version of the Duntov or the summit 00132 camshaft. I have 4.10 gears and a wide ratio 4 speed and the car all together weighs roughly 3200lbs with me in it. If i choose the duntov will it be streetable or have any torque whatsoever? The car will be probably around 60% street and 40% strip. I need advice from the more experienced! THANKS!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K00132/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-112192-14/

 

The duntov was a real streetable cam albiet it noisey. I have acess to the MT version (very old cam shaft) that I may poke in an engine that I have to see if I can get a little more RPM out of it.

 

I use to run them back in the day, if you have one run it, but there are so many better cams out there, unless you like saying you have a Duntov,and I truly understand that. I have hang ups and like 427's even though I have much bigger motors and am going to be running and Isky 550 super legeera roller in my 301.

 

they called them tree climbers.

 

I ran one back in the 60's on the street. At that time we all liked to hear the rocker arms ticking. Made everyone think you had a bad ass engine. Find a hyd. version and you won't be adjusting valves all the time. The car was a 62 Chevrolet Impala SS with a 283 4sp,4:11 rear,that hauled ass

 

Yep, decent street/strip cam, a little clackity though, nature of the beast. Many like the 327/350 cam. Quieter, good lumpy idle, and good all around performer. I still like the sound of a good solid lifter cam though, brings back memories....

 

I had Chet Herbert grind me up a few. One saw some circle track action, it was a good cam and the motor had plenty of pull. Another was in my 301 powered '66 Nova. I do have a new one still in the box, hope to use it soon.

Bob

 

You've got 3 great things going for you: It's a 327, you've got a 4-speed, and you've got plenty of gear. That can be a magical combination if you want it to be.

Don't handicap yourself with a tiny cam with 1950's technology. Go bigger, and get rid of that 600 and stick a 750 on there instead. Your 327 will thank you for it.........

 

I ran a 30/30 cam ... bought it from Hoffman Chevrolet. Think it was $30.00 over the counter. Strong runner in a 327 with low gears.
Joe

 

I have a 30-30 in my '29. It's in a 327 as well and runs pretty well. It'll want more carb than your 600 though up top. Your heads will support some decent velocity and you'll need the cfm to support it for strip use. Use good rockers with locks and valvetrain maintenance really won't be a factor.

 

as far as a ground shaking cam the infamous 30-30 solid lifter can not be beat. rumbling at idle about 900 RPM and pushing strong about 6,000 RPM. better sound than any gear drive noise maker, etc. have you searched for threads here on it like: Technical Real Duntov 30-30 Cam Specs? or have you directly talked to Comp Cams, Lunati, etc?

 

How much carb am i gonna need? wont a 750 kill my bottom end power?

 

I was looking at the Howard Cams model. I spoke to a guy from the company and he said it was alot more reasonable on the street compared to the "140" cam... and the website says its a near duplicate of the 30-30...the other cam i posted in the link is a small hydraulic one, ive ran that particular cam before and enjoyed it. But do you think that the duntov will pull harder?

 

Yep we used to get them for 30.00 over the Counter at Beasley Chevrolet, later Pabiz Motors in the 60's and I lost track of the number of them I helped friends put in.

The .030 clearence on the lifters did rattle and the one that I ran in later years in my T bucket rattled like a booger and always needed the valves run but it was a used cam when I got it and that might have been part of the problem.

 

I ran a 30/30 cam in my 327/365 (11.25 CR) back in the mid 60s......was a terrific set up for the street. Make sure you have the rocker studs pinned or threaded (with push rod guides) or they will pull out when you jump on it. I also used the double springs with dampers. A good shift point is about 6300 RPM on these. Low end is not very impressive, that's why you need a good gear.....comes on strong after 2500. Spark plug selection is important....pay attention to them.

I have a copy of the 30/30 made by Isky in one of my current rods.......327/Rochester FI.....runs real well.

As for the old price of these cams......I paid $18 for any cam at my local Chevy dealer....$4 each for forged pistons.....ring sets were around $2 each.......I built a 315 HP 283 for around $100, plus $40 for the Rochester FI........those were the good old days!!

 

I ran one in a 61 Vette. 283 bored .060 with pop up pistons, single Rochester 4 Jet with mods, 4:11 gear. Ran 13.08 at Green Valley. That cam loves compression, big valves, and good exhaust.

 

The chevy short run high performance cams were ground by Millings and packaged in gm boxes and sent GM depo.. The same cams also were marketed by millings but the specs were adversted on the low side.. The P/M for the 30/30 is C10P the lifters are now JX 992.. This replaced the J992. I have used these cams in circle track street stocks for years and have installed many in street driven cars/trucks.. As was said before if you use this set up be ready to adjust valves a lot and at any time.

 

I've run a 30/30 a few different times (incl in some old oval track engines) and it's a perfectly fine cam for a warmed over street engine. You'll want a 750 carb instead of a 600-ish deal (been there and have the tee shirt), 3-Deuces work great with it as well.

The '140' cam usually wants more compression, and gearing. The '151' (hydraulic) cam isn't worth the price of a happy meal IMHO. There are much better modern aftermarket alternatives available.

If you have a 30/30 go ahead and use it

Al in TN

 

I've got one in a large journal 327. Completely rebuilt, .040, 12.5:1 pistons & large chambered heads for pump gas, WC4D intake w/ 4 Stromberg large logo 97's, finned aluminum valve covers & pan, Planning on ram horns & some old Thrush steelpacks. Never been fired. Goin in my chopped '37 Chev P/U w/ '65 Chevelle rear & Saginaw 3 speed. Will I Need some steep gears to make this work? I haven't checked the ratio, but guessing it's highway gears.

 

With a 4.10 axle & 2.54 low, you don't need to worry much about the bottom. As mentioned above, screw in studs & guide plates are a good idea with these cams.

 

I think most of us old guys ran or drove one back then... very popular and cheap cam and they sounded great.
I always lashed them tighter than .030 they ran quieter and I thought made more power, but that could have been in my mind.. lol

 

I ran one in a 56 Chevy pickup, 327, fender well headers and a 780 Holley on an aluminum intake, I think it was an Offenhauser . Like has been stated bottom end wasn't great, but after about 2500 rpm it really turned on.

 

If I remember right, if you tighten up the lash, you could bring the power curve up a bit higher in the RPM range, as well as quiet it, but don't go too tight, either! Looser gave better low range performance.

 

I'm guessing that most of us are not dedicated street racers today like we were when this cam was king. It was cheap and Lustine Chevrolet kept them in stock. It was the noisy lifters that we wanted. That's part of its charm. Get some Pollylocks adjust it once and drive the SOB. If you don't want to hear a classic hotrod sound, buy a Prius and have your personal mechanic change the oil. There are better modern hydraulic cams but if you really want a period sounding hotrod, get a 365 cam and learn how to adjust the valves while it's running. I learned and I'm no rocket scientist. It's old time hotrodding at its best.....I'm told a Prius is pretty quiet.

 

<< I think i'll run one in the Lyndwood with ALGON injection, opinions?

 

I haven't run one recently but back in the day the 30/30 was our first choice as it was cheap and available from the local dealer. Ran one on a 283 with three Rochesters. Somehow 8 & 18 is what I remember setting the solids at.

 

if i do run the duntov will i need a light flywheel?? or would a 30lb one do the trick just fine?

 

Then that was the earlier solid cam made for the 283s. The 30-30 nick name comes from the valve clearance specs. intake .030 and exhaust .030 too....30/30 which did clatter a lot. We always refered to this cam as the 365 cam as in 327-365 HP. Duntov were not used as a nick name in my area for the 327 engines. Other areas may be different.

 

or has anyone ran the comp cams nostalgia plus version of the 30-30?

 

The 30-30 cam was also used in the '67-'69 302 ci motor... It made beautiful music between 7200-8000 rpm...