Technical Has anyone made their own steering column?

Just throwing this question into the mix. Messing around with the T bucket and trying to figure out the steering column. I was hoping just to pick one up to simplify things but can’t seem to find one short enough.
I can find aftermarket ones but the shortest ones at 20”, I’m going to need one around 15-16” long.
I’ve messed around with this type of thing before with my 64 Chevy truck build. I cut the column off a later 50’s Task Force truck because they fit in the “C” channel of the frame instead of on top. Got a bearing that fit into the original column so that it’s separate from the steering box.
Anyway, it looks like I’ll have to build a steering column from scratch this time.
Here’s some pictures from my analysis for the T bucket steering column.

Some components to build a mock-up column to get a decent feel for the required length.


First time was at the short standard length of 20”. Way too long.

Made a shorter one at about 15”. This one felt right holding it in place while sitting on my temporary seat.


Still roughing in things but I have a good idea of the specific requirements now.

Here’s some more shots of what I’m working with.

I have to account for a little misalignment seeing that I’m using a Corvair box and where the mount needed to go.


The box looks crooked in this picture but it’s an optical illusion. It’s straight.

Ok, show and tell time. I have a good idea as to how I’m going to build the column but I thought I could use some experienced ideas from you hoodlums.
r


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I have built a gaggle of columns. Find some exhaust tubing, some flange bearings and you are good to go.





-Abone.

 

There was some posts and tech years ago when the Limeworks column was new.

 

Did you use an existing splined/tapered shaft, or?

 

If,and that's a big if, Ian Berkey (sp), did an excellent how to on a home made column some years back....Had pic's, and everything.... I know pics are gone with the photo bucket fail.
That in itself included parts/pieces/design...... I grabbed everything needed,but shit is in the "steering box" awaiting it's turn.
Maybe hunt a lil for the thread. It was very informative!

 

@flamedabone,
Really like that column drop

 

That temporary seat concerns me.

 

Really, buy American, right?

 

I made mine with a GM shaft and exhaust tubing. Had a muffler shop expand the tubing until my bearing fit in snugly Slid the shaft in and put collar stops on each end. I them put a long chrome exhaust pipe over the column. Very low bucks,

 

On my T roadster I also used tubing, 16 Ga. if memory serves and about 1 3/4" or 2" O.D.. To support the shaft, I had some Nylon, or something similar to that, round bar stock that fit nicely inside the tubing. In fact, I probably picked the tubing to fit the Nylon bar stock I happened to have. I cut sections about 1 1/2" long and drilled a hole large enough for the steering shaft. To hold the "bushings" in place, top and bottom, I just drilled through the tubing on the under side and into the Nylon support bushings and used a short sheet metal screw to hold them in place. To support it off the dash I used 3/8" rod welded to the tubing and shaped it similar to a steering wishbone, the type that bolts to Ford spindles, then welded a flat bracket to the 3/8" rod to bolt it to a cross bar under the dash. Where it went through the firewall, I welded on a short tab and ran a machine screw into a square tube, which was part of a structure that I installed in the backside of the fiberglass firewall to firm up the body.

That may not be a very good description, but if you think the concept merits consideration, I'd be happy to take a photo or two tomorrow and post them here.

Lynn

 

I did about the same as Gabby. I used a GM shaft , 3 bolt steering wheel adapter, 54 turn signal
cup, exhaust tubing expanded to fit cup and made nylon bushings (top & bottom) . Ended with
smooth operating column with working canceling turn signals & a working horn. It ant
brain surgery...just a little work and planning. That is what is in my 32 Ford 5 window pictured
to left. Go for it, make it any size you want.... Jerry in NC

 

3/4" shaft, 1.75" exhaust tubing and the flange bearings such as Mcmaster

6384K367
This allows you to make it any length you desire. You weld a flange on top to mount the steering wheel and work forward from there.

 

When I was building the ‘37 Plymouth, I cut the stock steering column to the needed length. Used a length of double d steering shaft, cut to the proper length. Made a support bearing for the bottom of the column from a plastic/nylon cutting board and a hole saw sized to fit the column. Drilled a hole for a set screw, and drilled a hole for the shaft to pass through. Easy peasy.

 

Lots of race cars .

 

Made the one in the A. Bought pipe with the same OD as the bell I had and used the stock upper bushing for that bell. Only issue I had was the wall thickness was to much and so it took a lot of fucking around to open it up enough to fit over the box. Live and learn I guess.

If I was starting from scratch I’d stick a top hat shaped oilite bushing in the top of the tube and call it done.

 

I remember that one. I just did a search but came up empty. Wasn't it before the HAMB site was revised?

 

I used 35 ford bearings (rubber with bronze insert) in a 1 1/2 inch tube with a 55 chevy shaft with a signal stat turn signal attached.

 

I've shortened up the collapsible steering columns that have one tube that slides inside the other before to get a short one but I don't know if you can get it that short. A guy would want to slip a piece of tubing over the column to get rid of the ugly in a T though. None of the column showed when I had the setup on my 48.

 

You could use a piece of muffler tubing, hammer out a bell and use some derlin bushings either pre made or machine yourself. The postal jeep column I have just has nylon bushings top and bottom.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/making-your-own-steering-column.666232/

Here’s one write up. I know there’s more too.

I’ve made a few and they aren’t hard to do.
Most times I get the tri-5 Chevy steering shaft because it’s got the taper splined and threads then make the other end DD style. Some kind of grant adapter usually, flanged bearing and tube. A few I’ve made my own adapter with quick disconnect steering wheel parts and a welder.
You can just get everything you need or you start with some junk out of your pile or the steering wheel you want and then get the rest to make it work.
It’s not very hard if you’ve got some fabrication experience.

 

here is how I have made the horn button work. from an early jeep. you would use a hollow shaft.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/steering-column-horn-contact-brush-fits-41-49-mb-gpw-cj-2a

 

I did one about 15 years ago on the hamb tech week. I cant seem to find it but I used oil-lite bronze bushing and snap ring to hold in place or a set screw. The shaft end was a double D so you can use a ujoint on it. I tapered the other end like a early ford.

 

So do you use snap rings to keep the shaft in place?
r


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I like the idea of a center horn button instead of that stupid button on the column and mine is a hollow shaft! Could you do a little further 'splainin'? Thanks for the idea.

 

I machined the top bearing weldment on the aluminum column I built to accept a snap ring. On the lower end ìs a simple flanged bushing I machined out of Delrin stock.

 

I like self cancelling turn signals so I have used an F100 outer tube and top cup many times. The shaft and adaptor for the wheel can be anything of your choice. The top cup has provision for a column shift if need be.

 

Made my own a few times,this one was a table umbrella stand tube/shiny alum,and a stainless steel cup from the food store for blend below the steering wheel hub,bracket was some 1/2 in.SS tubing laying around an upper busching was cut on a leath from 5/8 in. plate held by 2 screws in tube. So all was nice an shiny when I made it.

 

The ends are machined to the tube size and then setscrew plug welded and welded all the way around. Notice the snap rings around the shaft and bronze bushings. Also the shaft being used on this one is a early Jeep because the CJs used GM steering shafts splines and GM steering hub splines as well . So you can get a Chevy steering wheel and use Vega steering components.. I usually machine a ford taper 4 degrees I believe but I made a fixture to do them on the lathe.