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~~~Hauled home a 41 ford And already hate fords more~~~

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by zeitlerusmc, Jun 10, 2008.

  1. zeitlerusmc
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 107

    zeitlerusmc
    BANNED

    Oh go here we go again, i am calm, and look who's getting pissy! im making jokes right back!!! but obviously someone else (switchblade) is being a little sissy! and as for the wide whites and red rims, yup i conform in ways but going as far as a small block chevy, that too far, I like the way red and black look, even if the trend was orange rims with black paint i still would of went with red, as far as the compression issue someone mentioned that all the sparg plugs have to be out to get and acurate reading why is that can someone explain?
     
  2. 38plymouth
    Joined: Apr 11, 2008
    Posts: 419

    38plymouth
    Member

    Well, I ain't ever seen anything flat black with wide whites and red rims. Best be careful, might set a trend or something!

    Yup, remove all plugs and open trottle all the way for accurate readings. Don't matter why cause you gotta remove all plugs anyway. :) But for the record, the motor will turn faster and it lessens the possibility of leakage between cylinders if a head gasket were gone, among other things (base comp,etc). Remember tests are done for various reasons and the method is universal across the board.

    If the compression test reveals low numbers you may want to do a leak down test to determine either worn rings or bad valves. Probably best to get a book on this stuff as the methods apply on all combustion engines, I know you said you are familiar with basic engines but compression/leak down/ should be part of the basic knowledge if you plan on doing your own work. Good luck with it and keep asking questions.....thats how its done :)
     
  3. stuck valves seem to be common problem with old motos that have sat for extended periods. put some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and pull it down the street. even low compression motors will kick over briefly,just make sure its in 2nd gear and the brakes are working.
     
  4. zeitlerusmc
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 107

    zeitlerusmc
    BANNED

    Good stuff guys thanks! Im going to try to pull start it, but first i have to rebuild the fuel pump and get it on its own fuel system and rebuild the master cylinder, as far as the wheel cylinders go they look pretty good, actually really good! And just to be safe im going to try to blow out the exhaust system, there might have been a little critter living in there like someone had mentioned! thanks gents, i'll let you know how it turns out!
     
  5. 'Mo
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,432

    'Mo
    Member

    Good luck! '41 Fords are tops in my book, fordors and all. I'd love to see it taildragger fashion; skirts, black paint, shave it and shorten the side trim, Barris style. Hollywood flippers or sombreros. Three carb flatty, R&P, maybe change the bumpers.
    Nothing newer than 1950 (+-). Could it get any better?
     
  6. King_Hooligan
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 147

    King_Hooligan
    BANNED
    from So. Cal.

    Come on Zeitler,get that bitch runnin...
     
  7. zeitlerusmc
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 107

    zeitlerusmc
    BANNED

    mo i agree on the shirts, i went ahead and put dummy spots on each side of the cowl and looking into a visor! want to get that thing lower but never messed with that type of suspension, would be a big job to bag it?? if so any advise on lowering it!? as far as getting it running i need to find some extra cash to order some parts have to wait till payday guys!
     
  8. zeitlerusmc
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 107

    zeitlerusmc
    BANNED

  9. Kulturepimp
    Joined: Oct 27, 2002
    Posts: 474

    Kulturepimp
    Member

    I dont know shit about motors, but... i did have a 51 ford in the shop with a flathead and had issues starting, i pulled the heads and valves were stuck all but two. I had my son crank the motor over and took a rubber mallet and marvel mystery oil... and slowly began to hit the stuck valves gently, the motor had been sitting over 20 years. they finally all freed up and ran great. That was 9 months ago, and it still runs good fires up every time. of course a complete tune up was also done.
     
  10. zeitlerusmc
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 107

    zeitlerusmc
    BANNED

    hmmm i need to get some of this mystery oil, where can i find it ?
     
  11. Billybobdad
    Joined: Mar 12, 2008
    Posts: 981

    Billybobdad
    Member

    Nobody knows thats why its called "Mystery Oil":D
    Actually any parts house has it
     
  12. AlbuqF-1
    Joined: Mar 2, 2006
    Posts: 909

    AlbuqF-1
    Member
    from NM

    AutoZone and NAPA, WalMart, etc. SeaFoam is a similar product but works better IMO for freeing stuck valves/lifters.
     
  13. zeitlerusmc
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 107

    zeitlerusmc
    BANNED

    seafoam?? really cool thanks!
     
  14. 'Mo
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,432

    'Mo
    Member

  15. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,772

    Abomination
    Member

    Breakfast of champions, my friend!

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Here's their site:
    http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/

    It's a lightweight oil, suspiciously like transmission fluid, but so much more. It can be added to gasoline or oil, etc.

    ~Jason


     
  16. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,772

    Abomination
    Member

    [​IMG]

    This stuff is awesome! It was developed to clear out carbon from the heads of outboard motors in the 40s to avoid having to pull 'em and scrape 'em. Just pour it down your carb while it's running, shut it off, pour the rest down and let it sit a while. When you start it up the entire neighborhood will be filled with a giant cloud of putrid, noxious gas that is still totally cool (even though it pisses everybody off)!!!

    It can be added to oil, or used by itself. It's seems like it's more solvent-like than Marvel Mystery.

    If you drop a few bucks at NAPA on head gaskets, you could pull 'em and just attack the valves like dude above did with some Kroil or PB Blaster and a rubber mallet. That seems like a great way to go - and it would allow you to physically get some aggression out, what with pounding on it and cursing at it... and we ALL know that the more curse words are thrown at a car, the better it runs, right?

    ~Jason


     
  17. 416Ford
    Joined: Mar 28, 2007
    Posts: 825

    416Ford
    Member

    Nice body style you have there:D. Be careful when you lower this car. I have heard and I am experiencing wheel clearance problem in the front of this car after lowering it. This board did not exist when I did mine and had I known then what I know now I would have moved my suspension back one inch to help with the clearance. I will be looking for a bigger backspacing then what my roll arounds have and that should clear up the problem.
    And if you are joking as you say you are...DO NOT YELL.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,265

    rodknocker

    How did the plugs look after cranking? I had a problem where a coolant leak was fouling the plugs.
     
  19. JDHolmes
    Joined: Nov 25, 2006
    Posts: 918

    JDHolmes
    Member
    from Spring TX

    Answering this at the bottom of page one, so you probably got it fixed now, but y our rings are probably rusted into the piston, not allowing any compression (or really crappy compression). Without 6 or 7 cylinders with 80%ish compression, you're not gonna run. I'd bet you have less than 50% in most of the cylinders.

    Go there now. I spent 6 months trying to deny what my compression tester was telling me, and found the rings rusted tight in the grooves.

    Then or even easier is the leak down test. You've probably heard this 20 times by the time my post comes up, but..........
     
  20. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,772

    Abomination
    Member

    What about Coke?

    [​IMG]

    Can't filling the cylinders overnight with Coke take the rust off those rings?

    ~Jason


     
  21. candyman
    Joined: Jun 29, 2001
    Posts: 355

    candyman
    Member

    This is a really stupid thing... but check your ignition wire. I had a similar problem with a sbc... went through the whole ignition system... changing stuff out... then it turned out to be an ignition wire. Man I felt stoooopid..... but... it was getting some spark... just not enough... that ignition wire was just too loose.
     
  22. Ford Freak
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 827

    Ford Freak
    Member

    LMAO!!! Ya know, I think you may be right, Doc..........:D
     
  23. Relic Stew
    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,234

    Relic Stew
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    My Dad used to own that car in the 60's it was originally my moms parents car. Dad used it for ice fishing till the late 60's, then parked it. Was sold to a friend in the mid 90's, then went to Arizona via ebay. The plate is from 68 I think, doubt it's been running since then. It was kept inside and my Dad would turn the engine over every now and then. Don't know what the last 10 years have brought though.

    If I remember correctly, it's a 59A with the earlier front accessories on it. It was probably rebuilt exchange in the 50's.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  24. creepyjackalope
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 560

    creepyjackalope
    Member

    I can appreciate you keeping the Ford theme and all but Ranger wheels....... Maybe they are rubbing because the car is trying to convince you to remove them at once!
     
  25. 416Ford
    Joined: Mar 28, 2007
    Posts: 825

    416Ford
    Member

    creepyjackalope, I did say they are my "roll arounds" my daily driver is a explorer and I used to run a salvage yard. Easy spares if I need one.

    Now back to trashing the engine guy who does not know what a ballast resistor is.
     
  26. King_Hooligan
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 147

    King_Hooligan
    BANNED
    from So. Cal.

    Hey Zeitler,any updates??
     
  27. zeitlerusmc
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 107

    zeitlerusmc
    BANNED

    no time just soaking in the ideas waiting on a new coil in the snail mail, and going to rebuild the brakes so we can push or pull start it !
     
  28. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,772

    Abomination
    Member

    FYI, if you need 6v ignition & battery stuff, check out a NAPA or a tractor store (or places that sell tractor shit). There's so much 6v stuff at those places (including generic coils you could've used) you'd freak!

    FYI for next time...

    ~Jason


     
  29. zeitlerusmc
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 107

    zeitlerusmc
    BANNED

    sweet, I have noticed that napa has a lot of the small rebuild kits!
     
  30. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,772

    Abomination
    Member

    Jesus, dude! NAPA is the KICK ASS SHIT!

    AT http://www.napaonline.com you can find things they can't in their system in the store - snag the part number anad bring it in and then they can pull it up!

    God Bless 'em, they're the ONLY online vendor that has the right parts for the 318 POly ('57 - '66) named and separated right from the newer 318 stuff, but they even HAVE THE PICTURES RIGHT!!!

    For that alone, they're on my kick-ass-cool list. They always seem a little more willing to look in the book, too.

    Don't forget Mac's, Van Pelt Sales, or Dick Spadaro - they have stuff, as well as a bunch of HAMBers here. Also, for flatty help, there's a little place called Fordbarn online that could help you a LOT (LOTS of flatty people on that board).

    Granted, I'm not the end-all, be-all flathead guy, but I do know where to go - well, enough to find a guy-who-knows-a-guy, etc to get me to the right people!

    You should post a YouTube video of it running for us!

    ~Jason


     

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