Projects Haulin' ass in fiberglass

Finally on it's feet without welding clamps and visegrips holding it together! You can kind of see this cars schizophrenic nature as it changed through the build. Started out as strip/street, then strip only. Still has 2 seats, the lower compression 545 (10.5:1) power windows and power brakes. The only real issue with running it a little on the street is the slicks and rear locator. Might make up a panhard bar I can put on for a little street fun.
Trans crossmember is simple but effective (mostly due to my fab capabilities). Steering linkage is going to be tacked in this week so I can blow it apart and start the finish welding.

 

Glad to see you got it on its feet, Nothing wrong with being on a budget either. One thing, depending on the guy who does the tech inspection and how keen his eye is, your crossmember should be setting on the mount and not bolted to the bottom of it. No big deal to fix now but later could be a problem.

 

Had thought about that, but was in a corner between crossmember design, tailshaft height and actually being about to remove it!

 

Driveshaft's in and fits perfectly. Deep pan on the C6 too, so now just to locate the driveshaft hoop. NHRA says within 6" of the front U-joint, but I'll have to track down an inspector as I would think it makes more sense at the back of the splines.

 

Maybe the slip should have been on the other end of the shaft.

 

Could do that... 1350's on both ends so I could flip it around.

 

Please educate me. Doesn't a C6 have a slip joint yoke?

Lynn

 

This is a "short shaft" C6. It was used in 4x4's with divorced transfer cases and is shorter than passenger car units. Shorter output shaft, big splines and in a short wheelbase car like this gives me a reasonable length driveshaft. The yoke bolts on which tends to leak less and not wear the tailshaft bushing like long tails. I have a short shaft C4 in our '31 and it works well. It was this or a Powerglide (which I may wind up going to with the bigger output engine).

 

Thanks for the clarification. I was a bit puzzled with the arrangement but if the yoke is bolted to the shaft, that explains it.

I had a somewhat similar situation in my T roadster with the goofy, terrible-shifting transmission that came with the 215 Olds V8 I have in the car. The Olds Tempest had independent rear suspension so it didn't need a slip joint in the driveshaft, and the yoke is bolted to the output shaft. I did a similar mid-driveshaft slip joint too. I think it may have been from a Chevy pickup or something, but really don't remember for sure. All I can say is so far, so good.

I've been watching and enjoying your build progress.

Lynn

 

More progress. Made up the driveshaft hoop and swapped the driveshaft around. Looks odd, but the mandated hoop location makes more sense now. looks tight, but still allows another 2" of lift if I need more clearance. Gotta go buy a bender to make the 4 link bracket braces (next up for my Memorial weekend fun).

 

Memorial Day project is to eliminate a potential issue with using the '32 rails and a parallel 4 link. Right now, the bottom of the bracket is unsupported and won't handle the load that'll be placed on it without trying to rotate. To eliminate this and actually make the power transfer more efficient, I'm making lower braces that will transfer that energy far forward on the rails (hopefully) reducing frame flex in case it tries to pull the front wheels. When it's all done I'll shoot it a dull black so no one will even know they're there.
This was worth buying the HF bender so I can move forward. Helps a LOT filling the tube with sand before bending. Next car will be full tube frame...

 

Didn't think I was done just making up braces did ya? Added a vertical brace to strengthen it and realized I need to go buy a tube notcher if I'm going to be making many more of these.

 

This build is NICE! BEAUTIFUL THINGS are happening here!

 

Last day of the 3 day weekend and I finally got all the braces fitted. Couldn't do any more until I found the plates to box the front brackets and of course couldn't find them. Found them hiding where I put them a couple years ago and got to tacking. Even though I won't be starting out with a transbrake, I wanted something better than just '32 rails to handle hp and driveline shock.

 

So what's the coolest thing about putting a lift in to work on cars? It's SO friggin' easy to pull the engine and trans!
Blowing it apart to finish weld the frame and move this build forward. Cars parts and pieces all OVER the damn place...

 

1st day of welding. Started on the floor reinforcements and got the left motor mount roughed in. There will be a flat floor in this, so the top must be flush. When I'm done with this I'll be flipping it to finish the bottom welds.
This is my first track car and it's hard to get it in my head that the finish level is different than I've had on on my show cars. Good thing I don't really have a timeframe for this to be finished.

 

Day 3 welding on the frame. About 90% done on the top, almost ready to flip it and do the bottom. Belated lesson from my old neighbor Brandon Thompson ... the grinding discs he gave me a LONG time ago aren't as aggressive as they looked and give a MUCH better finish than just the flap wheels. Shouldn't have hesitated so long in trying them... live and learn I guess.

 

Only got 1 thing done yesterday. Did some metal finishing on the right motor mount and that was it. The ground away portion is clearance for the header. Hope to get the topside finished today and flip it.

 

Had a good couple days. Welding is 99% done (the remaining 1% when it's torn down again for paint), got it flipped , suspension back on and the body is back. Gives me a shot in the arm to push this thing on.
Measured the block for zero deck, will be getting the pieces to rollerize the C6 and on to the roll cage.

 

Do these tires make my rear end look big?

 

Man that thing looks so bitchin with those wheels and tires.I run 10x15 wheels with 10.00 firestones that are pretty close to a 30'' tall tire.What size tires are your slicks.

 

The Hoosiers are 32x13-15

 

Block went out and got squared and decked. Fitting rings this weekend with short block assembly Tuesday and Wednesday. Found a roller cam core and is being ground for my application. Finally got the cam belt drive in as well. Only coming in around 700hp, but have the other block that'll be built a bit more. It'll get different heads and more compression, so looking to bring that one in over 800.

 

Love the car but the cleanliness of your garage concerns me. I need clutter and I am not seeing any.

 

i know this is a little late but nhra has in the rule book that you aren't supposed to grind down your welds.