Just heated some '48 Ford spindle arms to fit on a '32, does anyone have these spindles magnafluxed after they are heated to check for cracks? In the Bishop/Tardel book, they didn't say anything about having it done but I've heard guys insisting on it. Opinions?
That's up to you . If you feel something is wrong with them then you do what you want to feel safe . Magnaflux isn't cheap ! If you get the powder they use all you do is use a strong electro magnet and that will tell you where the cracks will be . I would love to find out where to get that powder they use so I can just magnaflux the parts myself . Just my opinion . Retro Jim
That old Ford steel is amazingly strong, I can't imagine them cracking but I've also heard of guys buying a few sets of spindles just to find 2 good ones.
Spindles rarely break in the area that gets heated to drop the arms. They break right in the fillet...This is NOT rare.. Powder mag will show an obvious crack but only wet mag with ultraviolet light will show the small starter cracks.. It is highly embarassing to be driving down the road and have a front wheel drop off.
For DIY crack detection LPI (liquid penetrant inspection) is the way to go. Magnaflux sells kits but all you really need is one can of penetrant and one of developer and you should be able to find them at a local welding supply: http://www.magnaflux.com/ProductOverview/OnlineCatalog/SpotcheckKits/tabid/117/Default.aspx Instructions for use are there too.
It also make for a nice pucker mark in a Saddleman's seatcover... having lost a front wheel TWICE, I can say this: if you're not sure, just buy a replacement part.
Dye penetrant works surprisingly well. It will find more than magnetic inspection without the florescent feature. Based on my own experience, checking old parts you may be surprised(or disappointed) by what you find. But, it's better to know than not.
Spot-Check is one I've used in the past and very easy to use. I've used it on heads, suspect areas in blocks as well... even found some cracks! Bob
X RAY... Your in Denver and I bet someone does NDT steel (non destructive testing). Also check on fab shops that do Xray on welds. I had friends in the pieline buisness and it easy and cheap.
I once had the front left wheel break off while I was driving my 57 Chevy but it wasn't because of the spindle breaking ( never knew of anyone that it happen to) The wheel broke off because the wheel studs broke. I also had the right rear axle on my 55 Nomad come out of the housing while I was driving. I looked in my rearview mirror and saw my tire sticking about 2 feet out from the car. I also had a 61 Impala and I was turning the corner and the front left side of the car just went down to the ground. Turns out the bushings were worn and the bushing shaft worked its way thru the A-arm. Bottom line, you just never know what will happen while driving a classic car.
Many years ago I had a midget and USAC required annual proof of magnaflux for the spindles, steering gear, and rod bolts. A lot of midgets at that time used Ford Econoline spindles, and we did actually find some cracks.
Do you pick old rusty bolts and****ume they are good to use? Them why would you do the same with a old used spindle, not knowing how it was used or abused. It's only your life or maybe your loved one's life riding on them. Seriously, its cheap insurance and worth what ever it cost. But to do it properly they MUST be clean reguardless of the method used. To use the Dye Penetrant method all grease and dirt must be removed from the crack (imperfection) for the dye to show a discontinuity. The crack must also be large enough for the dye to penetrate or you will not find the crack. Them the proper use of the cleaner after the dye has had time to penetrate so as not to flush it out of the crack causing it not to reveal the crack. Them there is the proper use of the Developer to not mask the crack. Just a few little details to consider. Good luck. Magnetic Particle info to follow later.
Had mine done by a local machine shop. No problem and I think it was less than $20 for the pair, know I thought it was quite reasonable. Canuck
Both knuckles on my 54 GMC truck had cracks about 3/16 deep starting in corners machined where the lower ear meets the vertical section. Fatigue cracks from hitting a zillion bumps over the years. http://image.classictrucks.com/f/10...t_end_suspension_rebuild+kingpin_bushings.jpg I kept grinding with a carbide burr until the indications were gone using MagnalGlo ( wet method) . I feel they are "stronger" than new despite the missing metal since they now have nicely developed radiuses to reduce the stress concentration of a corner
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