Head Rebuild

I have a nice set of unmolested '64 #461 heads (1.94/1.5) that I want to rebuild for the 327 in my roadster. The motor has a Comp 268H cam, flat tops, and Rochester FI with a 5 speed.
Looking for ideas on valves (Stainless or stock). Should I change the retainers and keepers or are the stock ones OK, Comp calls for a spring with 105# seat pressure. I have been told Z28 springs are a good option. What about hardened exhaust seats, pro/con. What type of guides? Anything else I should be concerned about? I have had them hot-tanked and magnafluxed.

 

I had a set of the same heads that I ran in dirt oval track racing for several years and with a set of 1.6"ex valves and a porting job I did myself they were competitive in limited sportsman (305 cid limit). I used GM vaves for the Fuel injected Corvette engines, '62/63 intakes and '64 exhaust. these were thin head, swirl polished from factory. Didn't have to worry about hardened seats as there was leaded gas still available then. Have read that under uses that didn'i involve too much full throttle heavy loads would be OK with no lead.
But I think I'd take a look at whether there was room for hardened ex. seats.
Dave

 

As far as hardened seats vs non hardened it depends on who you talk to. I assumed all engines now needed them due to the lack of lead in gasoline, but the race engine shop that built my Sons Olds talked us out of doing them. He says if it is a car you drive everyday of your life it might be worthwhile but on a car, like our hotrods that get driven less than that, it is a waste of money. So we passed on them and will also pass on them on the other motor he is doing for me right now.

As for the valve train components, I like to stay with the kit that is recommended by the cam manufacturer, and I go with the entire kit. You might be able to piece together springs and retainers that will work ok, but the kit the maker put together is designed to optimize performance with that particular cam. And the cost isn't much different either.

Guides don't need to be anything special, just good fitting bronze ones, and we use seals that you machine the guilde for instead of the umbrella ones that were stock. They last longer and control oil better too. We have been using SS valves for a while now and for the money they are a good deal.

Don