Hot Rods Headers Ford"Y"V8 from old Chevy's

A buddy gave me his old set of sb Chevy V8 T-Bucket header that are pertty nice chrome still , but cracked at flang,so he put new on his car. I'm rebuilding my old rod"28A roadster bobtail",It's always had a Ford Y-block but never nice headers really,so here's my shot at some better. I got some new flanges from Speedway,and will be cutting off the Chevy flanges,then space out the two center pipes on the Chevy part by about 3/4in. and weld these on too ford flange with it all jig-ed up on a older Y-block I keep around for parts. For those that don't know;out side end EX ports on SB Chevy and Ford Y-block are the very same spacing=even the end bolt on a Chevy EX flange bolt to Ford. I had a old rusty set also I'll use for making jig set up.
Here some photos of work.
#1 photo is setting up jig so welding them will come out strait and level.
The #2 photo is my rebuilt "Y" and the EX chevy headers just bolted on for test.

 

As a lifelong Y-Block fan, that's a great tip Dana! Thanks

 

Ok,this after cutting chevys flange off and fitting and tacking them to Ford y-block flange. Fit looked like I wished for,so now that there tacked OK,I'm putting them on a extra Y-head I have so I do welding with flange level vs sideways,should get a better weld this way. and that way the flange should stay nice an strait so gastkets will last a bit longer when being used.

 

That is a good tip. I had no idea.

 

Nice Dana! I've looked at so many sbc headers at swap meets and thought about doing the same thing. Now I know it works, and neat idea welding the tubes to the flange with the flange mounted on a head. Thanks!

 

good tech---that is real hot rodding...

 

Thanks,
Some extra "Y"tips;
I did build a alt. bracket using mostly the stock Y Ford gen. parts too,here a look at that for you other "Y" lovers. This was adding about 1in. to side bracket that bolts to head corner plus moved the back tab up for Alt. The bracket from the water pump to top of gen. was used by just adding longer bolts and some 1in. spacers,plus grinding some ark to under side. I added holes just to look good.
The stock lower slide adjustment can also be used ,but goes to back of alt. vs front of gen.
As a extra fact I'll show I'm using 5.0 SB Ford fanzy alum pulleys I was given from a Mustang buddy. The water pump 5.0 pulley work by using a 1/4in. spacer behind it,to line up with stock "Y" crank pulley,and alt. fanzy pulley is right anyway.

 

Love the engine stands!

 

very cool!

 

Cool info, love the re-claimng of materials in our throw away world. Good job bro. ~sololobo~

 

Almost got old body fixed enough to refit to frame,if that goes well,I'll pull it back off and box the frame this time.

 

I built it in 1959,How it looked back in 1964/5 when doing some updates

 

Nice tip on the headers, I picked up a SBC set with the intention of cutting them all to pieces to make them work on the y-block, but this will save me some time.

Did you file/sand/grind off the chrome before you welded them up? I'm planning to file the chrome off the areas that are going to be weld, but it looks like you just welded over the chrome. Any issues?

 

Great tech! Looks easy. SB Chevy headers are everywhere & cheap. Thanks for posting this.

 

I was going to grind chorme but test show unneeded*that sirprized me,,No prob welded right through the chrome,I used wire welder/75/25gas,did testing on old left over chrome chevy flanges after cutting them off,to get my settings and feel for them. The new "Y" Ford flanges are not chrome anyway. Did both outside and then some inside after were it looked like it could use it, I dress up the welds and painted afterward the Ford flange plus about 3/4in. of tube with hightemp Black=looks good and just blends OK.

 

Cool. That was my plan too, paint the welded area with scallops in black or hi temp aluminum stove paint. Thanks for the help!

 

great idea!!! I just made up some headers for my Y in a 30 tudor this weekend.

I hope people don't think you have a small block in your car.

 

A close up of them done

 

I'm always surprised with how much I can learn on this site, even after playin' with this stuff my whole life. Thanks! Great idea!

 

Update,its been 2 years now of having fun running around with these,no cracks probs with headers,I guess I welded them up pretty good. The BBQ black I used to cover the welds has turned gray now,but still looks OK to me

 

I must of forgot to tie this tech,in to my restore thread on my old hotrod,well better late then never,so here's that link up; http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ng-on-my-hotrod-28a-from-1959-rebuild.793393/

 

Dana the car looks very nice. Not to high jack but you can do the same think on MOPAR LA 318/360 engines. Saw it done on a circle track car...Like the Y block the end bolts on the chev and mopar are the same space. Thanks for posting... Bobby..

 

Well it's the end of 2018 an this set of header has out lasted all the other sets of headers I built over the years plus still look better then the others. A check in seemed a good idea,I like the idea of follow ups on how things worked over time. Happy new year! in a few days!! 2019

 

As a extra fact I'll show I'm using 5.0 SB Ford fanzy alum pulleys I was given from a Mustang buddy. The water pump 5.0 pulley work by using a 1/4in. spacer behind it,to line up with stock "Y" crank pulley,and alt. fanzy pulley is right anyway.[/QUOTE]
Typical in the need to speed up the water pump for idle cooling of YBlocks. Summit on others sells pulleys and spacer kits to make it EZ. Yblock pulleys are in the 7" range and Mustangs are smaller.