I have to thank everyone for all the great info on my past questions. The truck is coming along and now I need to work on the exhaust. I am looking for advise on headers. I have a 56 Chevy 3200 and put in a 350 from 1978. I also attached a 700r4 transmission. Looks like I will order the exhaust kit and built it myself, however, what do people recommend for headers? Will space be an issue? It doesn’t seem like I will have problems with any headers but never assume anything. Do people like the tight hugger headers or the long tube ones. Any problems hitting crossmember? As always, any info is very helpful. thanks
Solve a lot of problems with a set of 2-1/4" Rams Horn type manifolds. Tube headers will gain you little to nothing on anything but a very high performance engine/car. Especially going through a complete exhaust system, unless you will be using 3" tubing. The cast iron may weigh a little more, but leaks are not likely, bent tubes are not likely, "wondering" what will fit isn't likely. There is both factory style and aftermarket (slightly different shape) manifolds available. Just one opinion for a clean simple, no hassle system. Mike
My dad had a 70s GMC Jimmy/w 400 small block. Adding headers and dual exhaust to an otherwise stock vehicle was a vast improvement. I should add it included removing the cats. If your engine is a stock 78 350, I would limit header primary diameter to 1 1/2-1 5/8." Oh, it sounded a whole lot better than the stock "vacuum cleaner", but not loud enough to be a nuisance.
First answer the question, Why headers? Extra power? Visual appeal? Aural appeal? I don't think block hugger headers get you much in the way of performance over center dump rams horn style cast iron manifolds, but they look and sound a little cooler. Long tube headers give a performance increase when matched up with appropriate intake and other engine mods, and they do add more visual appeal, and especially aural appeal/improvement, of course that is subjective. Those who like a quiet exhaust note may prefer stock manifolds. But if your building a car with performance styling, long tube headers will help you achieve an exhaust note that matches that style, but then you have to deal with all the headaches that headers can bring, especially inexpensive headers, i.e. poor fit, leaks, burned spark plug wires, clearance issues, etc.
1-7/8" diameter tube, full length headers with thick flanges (1/4" minimum), an "X" or "H" cross-over pipe, tail pipes over the rear end, mufflers as far back as you can get them.
On a stock or mild 350 a set of long tube 1 5/8" primary headers would be my first choice. 1 3/4" primaries for a high perf 350, 383 or bigger. Second choice would be the 2 1/2" ram horns available from several sources. Block huggers and shorties are a waste of time and money, no advantage over ram horns. A 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" exhaust system is as big as you need for a stock to mild 350. Headers for your truck should be available from the usual sources, Hedman, Patriot, Hooker, etc. You didn't mention what front suspension it has, if it has a different front clip that will make a difference.
I've got block huggers on the Studebaker (I foolishly gave a set of 2.5 inch ram horns to my cousin and took a chance that the block huggers would fit better. I have fenderwell headers on the 38 because I needed the room, I would go with cast iron if they will fit.
Thanks for all the help. Obviously I was unaware of a lot of information. This is not a hot rod truck. Drives with my son and no interest in crazy performance. Thanks
Imo. go with cast iron ram horn style, have not read or heard any complaints on the repops available, on my Mercury I put original chevy ram horns, look good, goes with style (60's) I was going for. I have had several SBC with headers of various brands, all about the same, all OK, no problems. It's just a looks thing, what do you like, have seen a SS ram horn style that would polish up nice. You're not racing so choose what you like, muffler choice is big as the sound is again what do you like. This Free Advice is worth price paid.
Years ago, my younger brother had a 56 Chevrolet truck, big wrap around rear window, and the longest box they made at the time. I helped him put a fresh 283 with an RV type cam, and an adapter to mount a Holley 2 barrel to the intake manifold. He bought Hedman Hedders for it and had the local muffler shop do the rest of the exhaust. Because the box was so long, he wanted the longest glass pack mufflers used. that truck had the coolest sounding exhaust I've ever heard. My DD truck needs a new exhaust system and I'd sure like to know exactly what mufflers were used and the diameter of the pipes. Course that truck has been gone for quite some time, and my brother does't remember what was used. BUT, if I were you, I'd use a pair of rams horn exhaust manifolds, and the run the exhaust all the way to the back bumper. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Which crossmember are you talking about? The only headers that I can find that are designed to fit the truck, are made to clear the crossmember that was under the bellhousing. Which means they hand down kind of far. As mentioned, either use the 57-late 60s style cast iron rams horns manifolds, or use long tube, small diameter headers.
In this case I'd agree with the others and say the rams horn manifolds would be best. 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" pipes back to either glass packs or turbo mufflers, then all the way back to the bumper would sound great. Glass packs will be a little louder, but have a great traditional sound, and they have that rasp on deceleration or when you rev the motor; but over time the fiberglass get's blown out and then they start sounding crappy. Turbo mufflers will give a more mellow exhaust note, a little deeper tone, still a very traditional sound, and free flowing. Resist any push toward chambered mufflers like the Flowmasters, just don't do it.
Some of the information presented is based on opinion, not fact. Fox-body 5.0 Mustangs came from the factory with tubular shorty headers. However, they were small-diameter and had kinks. They were stainless, didn't rust out, and didn't leak. There were many aftermarket shorty headers that were available as well, with larger tubes and no kinks. If you do your research, you will find dyno tests comparing cast-iron manifolds, shorties, and long tubes. You will then be able to make an educated decision. After reading Ted Eaton's test (Eaton Balancing), I purchased a set of Sanderson's ceramic-coated block-hugger/shorty headers specifically made for 1955-57 Thunderbirds/w the Y-block engine. For about the same price, I could have bought reproduction 57 Thunderbird manifolds that are not ceramic-coated and will not flow as well, but they will flow better than my OEM 55 manifolds, which are smaller. By the way, 1 7/8-diameter primaries is big-block territory.
The square body headers that Squirrel posted are the go to headers for these truck, the steering box tends to get in the way, the 2.5 rams horns do clear the steering box. I just tried out a couple different fenderwell headers and rams horns on my 57 to see what was going to fit. I had a photo of those square body headers on one but I may have deleted it, that would be the header I would choose, why not pick up the extra torque, hp and gas mileage when you can get it. Square body headers
^^^Those headers above, and the ones squirrel posted, look just like the Hedman's my brother had on his truck^^^. Almost like block huggers, only angle back/down and longer primaries. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
We did those headers years ago when I worked at Hedman. They were based on the Hedman early Corvette header with the outlets angled down to help the head pipe run under the bellhousing area crossmember. Just a simple, compact, long tube (30”-36” primary) header that cleared the stock front suspension and steering box nicely and was easy to install. It sounds like the OP has decided on cast iron manifolds. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would not choose a header that uses thinner than 16-gauge tubing/w 14-gauge being better, but not as common. I would also avoid $99 specials. Cast iron manifolds are chosen if there are clearance issues, or a stock appearance is preferred. What you are doing is not uncommon. Surely there must be off-the-shelf headers that will fit your application. If your budget allows, custom headers can be made. More than likely, you will be satisfied with cast iron manifolds/w true dual exhaust, using 2 1/4-2 1/2" pipes and free-flowing mufflers. I like Borla Pro XS mufflers, but not old-school.
Thanks for the info. I have decided to use the Rams Horn manifold. I have no need to squeeze every bit of HP out of this set up. I just spend the last day listening to mufflers and decided to go with some Flow Masters as I like the mellow sound and my neighbors will appreciate it as well. A little custom exhaust pipe work and one more thing complete
When you listened to those Flowmasters, were they on a vehicle equipped with cats? The sound is not the same without cats. Without cats, they have a more metallic sound. They "shoe-box" mufflers were the rave when they first appeared, but you have more choices today.
i am not sure what “cats” are. When they had them on a 64 Chevy truck with a 350. They sounded great. I just want a sound a little better than stock. Thanks for the advise.
A bone stock smog era 350 will be happier with manifolds and 2" pipes. Most people go too big with the pipes and kill off what little low end torque they had. Exhaust is one area where bigger is not always better.
It depends greatly on which Flowmasters you buy! I've had Flowmasters and never considered them mellow, or easy on the neighbor's ears! If you buy Flowmaster 40's expect the neighbors to hate you quickly! The 50's are slightly better, but really I'd suggest going to either the 60 or 70 series if you want mellow. https://www.holley.com/brands/flowmaster/products/exhaust/mufflers/street_chambered_mufflers/ Any good turbo muffler will be quieter than 40 or 50 series though.
Scott71 I'd like to see some pictures of your 56 Chevy 3200 Truck when you get it put back together. It sounds like a really nice Truck. Thank you hope to see pics soon. 1Nimrod
The right long tubes will increase low-end torque. However, 1 3/4 would be my outer limit, not 1 7/8. Maybe you can find a stepped 1 5/8-1 3/4. don't buy a set of $99 headers.
Per chance, have you got a part number for the headers in the last picture? With a slight modification, they would be just right for the whatever project. Thanks
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