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Headliner install advice needed??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chris Wiehle, May 27, 2004.

  1. Chris Wiehle
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 250

    Chris Wiehle
    Member
    from Byron , IL

    Before I get started I know there is some of you that are going to just tell me to take the car to a pro and let him do it. Well I can't afford it and I'm still fairly young so I figure I better learn now or never. With that out of the way- The car is a '53 Ford business coupe. This is what I know- lay (vinyl) headliner out, scribe a center line with a wax stick or something, then----- hmmmm I knew there was more to this. Any help appreciated.
    Thanks Chris
     
  2. gotcha
    Joined: Feb 26, 2004
    Posts: 176

    gotcha
    Member
    from Sanger, TX

    I always mark the center, attach the front, then stretch to the back...Attach the back, then stretch a little on one side of the front, then the other, and work my way to the back of the car that way. Just make sure you get the bows in the right location, or it won't ever work right.

    JP
     
  3. Chris Wiehle
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 250

    Chris Wiehle
    Member
    from Byron , IL

    Thank you , that's a good start.
     
  4. JimC
    Joined: Dec 13, 2002
    Posts: 2,243

    JimC
    Member
    from W.C.,Mo.

    So far, good suggestions.
    I would reccomend a reference book, there are several on upholstery.
     
  5. born2late
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 348

    born2late
    Member

    As you are stretching material from the center to the sides you will have to trim back the loops that the headlier bows slip into. This allows more of the bow to be exposed and creates a smooth transition to the area where the wind cord attaches. Also don't try to get all the wrinkles out of a vinyl headliner, you will be able to steam them out with a steamer once everything is nailed down. Another way is to pull the car outside on a very warm sunny day, roll the windows up, and mist the headliner with water every hour or so. This will also do some shrinking. You do have all the gl*** out right? The liner needs to wrap around and be glued to the front, rear, and side gl*** channels. PM me if you have any more questions. I have done a few shoe box fords. Good luck and be patient, you'll do fine.
     
  6. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,616

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

  7. SimonSez
    Joined: Jul 1, 2001
    Posts: 1,666

    SimonSez
    Member

    It's a fairly simple job as long as you work methodically. If you get yourself a bunch of clothespins or similar clips to hold the front and rear in position, it makes it easier.
     
  8. Chris Wiehle
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 250

    Chris Wiehle
    Member
    from Byron , IL

    Yes the windows are all out cuz the car was just painted. You guys are giving me a lot of good advice. Thanks and keep it coming
    Chris
     
  9. K
    Joined: Dec 16, 2001
    Posts: 17

    K
    Member

    We did the headliner in my son's car during Winter break (December) so altho it's Cali, it can still get a bit too cold to streach the material. We also had the gl*** out so put blankets over all the window openings, stuck a small electric heater inside over night to heat up the air and had the headliner in the house to keep it pliable. Installed while the blankets were still over the openings (yeah, it did get hot). One trick I did discover is to use gorilla snot (3M product) to glue along the edges because unlike a regular contact cement, you can reposition the headliner material as needed as you streach the fabric. When you're happy with the fit, then press firmly and it'll stick like crazy. Really good stuff. Also, use a hair dryer as you are pulling the material to help streach it as you instal it. Comes out taught, even and professional looking. Hope this helps.
    K
     
  10. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,419

    DrJ
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    ..One trick I did discover is to use gorilla snot (3M product) ...


    [/ QUOTE ]

    3M Trim Adhesive, yellow in color, ergo, "Gorilla snot"
     
  11. a/fxcomet
    Joined: Mar 31, 2001
    Posts: 554

    a/fxcomet
    Member
    from Eugene, OR

    I was going to put one in a '67 mustang, but I couldnt figure out how I was going to get the wrinkles out of the b-piller, so I let a pro do it. I watched him, and he made it look easy. You just have to know where to make the right cuts I guess. He used contact cement, that he sprayed on with a small spray gun. He didnt use any clips to hold it down either. Just let the cement get a little tacky.
     
  12. Chris Wiehle
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 250

    Chris Wiehle
    Member
    from Byron , IL

    Also, what do you guys recommend for putting between the bows and the roof skin? A local guy told me to get the silvery bubbl wrap looking insulation stuff from lowes or menards- that didn't give me much to go on and I don't want to keep bugging the guy since I am not paying him to do it.
    C
     
  13. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,616

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Yes, I recommend the bubble heatduct wrap. But I would advise you not to use the 3M spray adhesive on it only.
    I used this on some overhead areas on my coupe and time vibration and temperature in a years time has cause it to become loose in areas. I had to use some of the 3M weather seal adhesive with the spray to make it hold well.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. fatluckys
    Joined: Jan 3, 2002
    Posts: 721

    fatluckys
    Member

    [ QUOTE ]
    I always mark the center, attach the front, then stretch to the back...Attach the back, then stretch a little on one side of the front, then the other, and work my way to the back of the car that way. Just make sure you get the bows in the right location, or it won't ever work right.

    JP

    [/ QUOTE ]
    That's basicaly it- except I usually work from back to front. If you have to glue it in, get some good contact cement from your local upholstery supply. Don't use any of that 3M spray ****. The aluminum foil bubble wrap stuff works really well for insulation, and it's cheap. There's a thread on insulating cars around here somewhere. I'm doin' a headliner this week- I'll take some in progress photos for ya.
     
  15. Chris Wiehle
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 250

    Chris Wiehle
    Member
    from Byron , IL

    That would be great thanks!
     
  16. Chris Wiehle
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 250

    Chris Wiehle
    Member
    from Byron , IL

    One thing I don't understand. The metal tack strip above the doors have the barbs on the inside. There is no way to get to it once the headliner is up in place. Am I suppose to just stuff the headliner up in there between the roof and the strip and hope it graps or is there some type of method I am not seeing?
    Thanks
     
  17. fatluckys
    Joined: Jan 3, 2002
    Posts: 721

    fatluckys
    Member

    Yup, you're just supposed to stuff it in there & the teeth grab the headliner. I always hated those...
    You know you're need to put the windlace in first, right?
     
  18. Chris Wiehle
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 250

    Chris Wiehle
    Member
    from Byron , IL

    [ QUOTE ]
    Yup, you're just supposed to stuff it in there & the teeth grab the headliner. I always hated those...
    You know you're need to put the windlace in first, right?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'm not replacing any of the windlace.
     
  19. fatluckys
    Joined: Jan 3, 2002
    Posts: 721

    fatluckys
    Member

    Well then you're halfway done! [​IMG]
     
  20. Chris Wiehle
    Joined: Oct 2, 2003
    Posts: 250

    Chris Wiehle
    Member
    from Byron , IL

    Hey fatlucky's - I just checked out your site. Hats off to your primo looking work. Thanks again for everyone's advice
     

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