I got a heim joint(without grease zerks) draglink from speedway and the available seals. Whats the best way to keep this lubed? Periodic spraying of wd-40 or Gibbs brand penetrating lube? Silicone spray?
My guess is if it has no zerks it`s not needed to lube just kept clean.The makeup of the joint is materials that need no lube,like teflon or bronze. I only have aircraft experience so it may be different in the automotive world.
When they get stiff I take the bolt out, turn the ball sideways and work grease in the joint till they free up.
Here is what you are looking, they come in many sizes. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ProductSummary.aspx?free_text|2/10/2011 10:03:00 PM=91001500&deptId=0 Seals-It Heim Seals Price: $9.99 - $12.99 (2 Ratings) These rod end seals are a neoprene rubber seal bonded to an aircraft quality washer. Extends the life of your rod ends by keeping the dirt, debris and moisture out of the spherical ball. They fit on both sides of the ball end of the heim joint and are sized to match the hole in the spherical ball. For use with standard and Pro 1 Series rod end only. Sold in sets of six, which will cover both sides of three rod ends.
Those are the ends and seals I already have, i'm looking to keep them from rusting and binding is all....
I ran an off road desert race car for a few years and never worried about the heims. These were big 1/2" to 1" Heims....but all we ever did was spray a little wd-40 on everything to stop rust. If that was good enough for the dusty desert used stuff, it should be more than enough for a street car.
If they're two piece metal-on-metal like in that picture, then use a spray lube like everyone else has said. If they're three piece with the injected gl*** filled teflon liner, then you should not lubricate them at all, that's what the liner is in there for. The seals you have will help keep crud out, so use those no matter what. Teflon is pretty resilient stuff though, so lube shouldn't hurt anything, it just makes a mess for no reason.
Those seals will also keep moisture IN. You're better off not using them. If they're used on something that's greased they will shield the joint from dust/moisture...
We use white lithium grease in a spray can on our dirt car. Occasionally we take the bolts out and rotate the balls around and clean w/ wd40. Never had any on a street car, but I'd think you wouldnt have to do this very often. The ones we use for tie rods usually get bent before they wear out....
Compared to the chain lube, bar oil, and grease that have been suggested, WD-40, penetrating oil, and silicone aren't very good lubes for this job. Even an occasional drop of motor oil would be better than any of the lubes you asked about.
I use this stuff, it is an amazing product for lubricating all sorts of things. http://www.fluid-film.com/
I use Graphite Clutch Spray used for snowmobile clutches. It goes on wet and turns to a dry dust. I like it cause dirt doesn't stick to it.
Mastadon has the right idea. I like wise use anti-seize on my 4 link in my roadster and 20,000 miles its still works smooth.
I'm using the teflon lined Heim joints from Speedway, and also have those seals. I'll probably pack them with silicon grease under the dust seals, to keep water out and lubricate the rubber seal, more than to lube the joint. Some types of WD40 or similar can react with nylon bushes or rubber seals.
Dirt and grit will stick to oil or grease. Most dirt racers just use WD40 to clean them. Keeping them clean is as important as lubricating them. I wouldn't use the seals as they could trap dirt and moisture like some already mentioned.
The Teflon lined joints don't need any lube, infact lube can damage them, The seals work well and stop any dirt entering.