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HELP - 283 SBC no oil thru pushrods???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rat bastad, Jun 26, 2010.

  1. Hey guys,

    Stumped by this.

    Have what is supposed to be a 57 283 in my 57 Wagon (the heads are anyway - I can't verify the block because trying to actually SEE the casting number is impossible the way Chevy mounted this engine in this car.

    So I did a cam swap with a Summit 1102, broke it in nice - all good there, BUT I'm not getting adequate oiling thru the lifters to the pushrods and was getting lifter clatter no matter the preload so I shut her down and pulled the valve covers to check oiling. No dice.

    I seem to remember reading that only 1955-56 265 cams have a decent 1/2 groove in the rear cam journal to allow oiling to the top end. Is this correct? I was under the impression that from 57 on, the cam did NOT have the 1/2 groove as it wasnt required to get oil to the top end for the 57 block.

    The Summit 1102 cam from memory didnt have this groove in the rear cam journal whereas the cam I removed from the engine DOES have it. Can you say confused?

    So...what gives here? Kinda confused as to what is the correct camshaft requirement for a 57 283 actually is At this point is there any other way I can verify its a 57 283 without the casting number? The heads have a little triangle cast into them at the front of the block and have no accessory holes either....engine was a 2BBL engine.

    Why cant I get any oil to the top end?

    I need to get this sorted pronto so any tips would be a HUGE help .

    Thanx in advance !!

    Rat
     
  2. Baumi
    Joined: Jan 28, 2003
    Posts: 3,296

    Baumi
    Member

    Hi! I have a 56-57 Chevy 283 , the early block without the side motor mounts and it also has a cam with a groove in the rear journal, just like yours. I´d just have the groove machined into the new camshaft and I bet you´ll get oil to the lifters.
    Chris
     
  3. rat,
    a 1957 cam should be notched. does the block in your car have cast provisions for sidemounts, 1955-1957 did not.
    Al.
     
  4. DD COOPMAN
    Joined: Jul 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,122

    DD COOPMAN
    Member

    Can you possibly see the date code on the rear of the block, opposite side to the casting number? Passenger side for US...driver side for YOU. Sometimes a small mirror and light will help. Doesn't take much of a notch. I've done it a long time ago with a file and careful clean-up. DD
     
  5. Guys, the block is front mounted a la STD 57 Chevy.

    I was suss about that groove in the rear cam journal; I thought only the 55-56 265s had the groove.

    Are you SURE?

    Rat
     
  6. i would think if the old cam that you took out had the groove , the new cam that goes back in it's place should have it too
     
  7. Thanx to all....will pull the cam to hasve it grooved !

    Rat
     
  8. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    DING!!! DING!!! DING!!! We have a winner. I wouldn't try to file the notch but instead have it done on a mill. Just duplicate the notch on the old cam. The depth and length of the notch was the determining factor on the amount of oil that got to the upper end. Too deep (long) a notch and too much oil to the top end and a loss of oil pressure. Too small of a notch and too little oil to the top end starving the valvetrain.

    Frank
     
  9. pdq67
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 787

    pdq67
    Member

    You can use a 4.5 angle grinder and make an about 3/4" long x 3/16" wide x 1/16" deep notch in the center of the rear cam jounal and be fine.

    My old junk301's -097 Duntov cam was done that way by whoever that put the engine together that I scrounged the cam out of in the Boneyard years ago.

    Oh, and btw, post back the letter(s) that should be on the little deck pad that's right above the pass. side top water pump bolt and I will decode your engine the easy way.

    pdq67
     
  10. Hey Frank,

    That's exactly what Ill be doing....relicating the old notch identically. The cam specialist is up the road from me - it should be an easy deal on his mill. ialready have it torn down - will be pulling cam in the morning after removing the rad.

    That'll teach me for assuming it was the same - next time i'll check first. DOH !!

    Thanx again !!

    Rat
     
  11. Jimmy Tee
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 582

    Jimmy Tee
    Member

    Put this down as another one of life's lessons..... for all of us that have read this.
     
  12. KoolKat-57
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 3,092

    KoolKat-57
    Member
    from Dublin, OH

    You might have a 265 in your 57! They were used in the lower end V8 cars in the earlier production period.
     
  13. 39cent
    Joined: Apr 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,569

    39cent
    Member
    from socal

    GGGG I saw this, and it brought back some memories. I had a 56' 265 which I bought in 56. This was when sbc,s were just showing up in rods. The formula was to put on Corvette parts, and really woke it up, which it surely did. One of the things was the cam notch and thats what we were told to do it, just 'grind a slot', which I did and that engine never had a problem. Ended up with corvette dual quads,duntov 30-30 cam, corv. distributor, moraine bearings,balanced,big valves, bored 1/8, w Merryman 10.5 comp. pistons. Hauled ass.
     
  14. ARBY32
    Joined: Jun 8, 2010
    Posts: 1

    ARBY32
    Member

    you didn't say what distributor you are using....some early distributors restricted oil flow to one side of the engine....if you are using a resurected early distributor, try changing to a newer one before you pull the engine apart...might save you some time and mystery....
     
  15. pdq67
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 787

    pdq67
    Member

    Well, post back the letter(s) that should be on the little deck pad that's above the pass. side top water pump bolt and we will tell you what it started life out as.

    pdq67
     
  16. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,993

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    In addition to what the others have told you, a hydraulic cam had a much deeper groove in the rear journal than a solid lifter cam, and if your heads have a small triangle on the end, they are 4 bbl heads. Post the casting number, and I can tell you exactly which ones they are.
     

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