help- 318 running on 4 cylinders.

If you're going to go with the electronic distributor (highly recommended many times since this thread started), you might as well go whole hog and do a HEI conversion.

Go to the Slant Six Org forum (yeah, I know you're working on an A motor) and view the sticky in the electrical section on HEI conversions.

www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic?t=15779

There are a number of other threads on HEI conversions on this board (slantsix.org) well worth reading, too.

 

Chrysler Electronic setup would be way cheaper and run just as well as an H.E.I. (and is less ugly)

 

Unless the ballast resistor goes south (as a Chrysler/Plymouth salesman as far back as the Volare days of the 70s, I started telling customers to carry a spare ballast resistor in the glove box to keep from getting stranded), or you get some of the crap replacement parts that have been out there the last 10 or 15 years, or you simply want the car to run better and get better mileage.

Slant sixers are about as tried and true Mopar as it gets, so for them to use something from GM probably means it really works.

 

Ouch

 

Cornfieldrodder/AJmopar- Thanks for the info on the upgrade. I will check out what is on the transvan when I get there and if not what I need I will buy it from ebay. I remeber seeing a bunch of those modules laying around in my dads toolbox so I think its the right one.

twofosho- The HEI conversion is an option, but if there is a weird problem with the distrubuter itself, then the conversion might not help. If I can get the Mopar stuff from the transvan I will try it cuz I know that engine ran (tranny went out so it got parked). Maybe I will convert it to HEI later after i figure this all out.

James- I have been trying to troubleshoot the engine and have tried to test everyones ideas to find the problem. A few people have told me I have huge valve problems and need the heads redone- Good thing I didnt just yank them off. I needed to replace the intake gasket anyway as the end seals (Spongey foam crap) was leaking- $16.00 and I was able to check the condition of some stuff and fix the leak.. I just dont want to throw money at it rather then test it and find the problem. I'ld pull the dizzy and take it to a local shop, but noone around here has a tester or sun machine to test it.

The distributer I have is atleast sending spark to the plugs and the timing light shows they are firing around the time they should be so I really dont know. I'll swap the dizzy and see what happens.

I leave for Mi in the morning and wont be able to get back to this until next weekend- I'll update then- Thanks for all the info, help, ideas and patience.

 

I'd put my money on this solution!

 

Hmm, yea. That would also give the vacuum indication he's getting.

 

Hey - post it up at the 318 Poly Yahoo Group and let 'em have a go at it: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/318poly/

 

Again, I'd put money on the distributor, and junkyard a 73 up Mopar mag pulse electronic. Just make sure the side play is minimal and the end play is in spec, and drop it in. While you're at it grab the wiring, ballast resistor, amp box, and electronic voltage regulator (you might as well grab it too because some say it makes the electronic ignition play nice).

I did just that for the 73 340 in my 71 van (I actually kept the point distributor and swapped back and forth several times chasing other electrical gremlins, buts that's another story). Rest assured though, when the 340 goes into my Duster a little later this year, the electronic Mope distributor will get mated with a mid 90s Chevy truck HEI module, instead of it's matching Mopar amplifier and wiring.

 

Just got back late last night- The trucks at my dads both had regular points dist. in them. I pulled one for a spare but I am goign to look into the electronic dist. most of the yards around here dont have much earlier than mid-late 90s. So I will probably go ebay.

 

Okay just a small update- If off today and had enough spare parts- I put new points/condensor in the dist I got from the camper and stabbed it into the engine just to try it out- No change. The thing acts exactly like it did with the old dist EXCEPT the timing now isnt advanced so far. As I said above spec was 10 btdc but I was running about 20btdc because thats where it ran good. With this dist I have it set to 10btdc and it seems to run as good as it did before.

Just a test because I had time.

I checked out ebay- They have brand new distributors with electronic pickup and HEI conversion already build in for about $75.00 so I am going to order one and stick it in.

I checked petronix at the local oreilleys and it was $50.00- The whole dist. seems like a better deal.

If the new Dist doesnt fix it, Im gonna have to break down and take it to someone

 

4 BANGERS ARE COOL !!!!!
SORRY I had too
GOOD LUCK
Bill

 

When are you gonna take the carb off and clean all of the passages? You have worked on everything else ! Just a well go ahead clean and inspect the carb? OldWolf

 

Carb is rebuilt holley 2 barrel. It was recently rebuilt when I got it but I found out the guy that did it was a dumbass so I redid it.

 

Wow James you figured it out. I took your advice and pulled the pan- Turns out there was no pistons in those 4 cylinders. Previous owner must have pulled them

For those of you trying to HELP, that was just a joke for James.

All in good fun James Technically you are right- I havent changed the pan gasket yet so it probably would be a good investment.

 

Thats why I am here asking for ideas... Do you give up on your car when you cant figure it out the first time

 

I put a different dist. in today with no real improvement of the problem (4 dead cyls) and I already said I am ordering a full electronic dist with HEI off ebay. When It arrives I will be happy to post the results.

 

Bad spark plugs?

 

Plugs are good, wires too.

I even swapped plugs and wires from one side of the engine to the other side- Problem stayed on the drivers side.

 

please photo of intake runners
some thing common to that head>not enough valve clearance common to all ...some engines need shorter push rods as valves ground &stems not cut....can you install spacers washers under rocker stands[if that is type used]

 

Sorry no picks while I had the intake off

What means not enough valve clearance? When I had the itake off I could see the valves open atleast 1/4 to 1/2 and inch so they look to open far enough.. I put carb cleaner on the closed valves and it didnt leak out after 5 minutes so they seem to seal okay...

 

Okay so I ordered an electronic distibuter with Electrnoic mudle built in off ebay. Supposed to be "Drop in". Technically it did but the carb required different plug wires so I had to buy soem new cut to length MSD wires- so my $75.00 distributer cost me $125.00 to install

And after all that the car does not run ANY BETTER AT ALL. Not one single bit. So I apparently had both old distributers set uop and adjusted correctly. Just a little miffed to spend the cash with absolutely NO BENEFIT

Oh Well

To Recap:

• Car runs kinda rough at idle while out of gear
• Idles very rough while in gear at stop lights and such
• pulling all spark plug wires from drivers side of engine does NOT change idle but pulling any single wire from pass side causes noticeable change in idle (drop)

So it seems like the drivers side head has an issue, but what issue could cause this problem whiel still having good compression?

 

Only thing i can think of although its very unlikely. blown head gasket between the cylinders letting the compression leak between them. OldWolf

 

I thought if the head gasket was blown between the cylinders the compression for those cylinders would be lower than the rest.

Im thinking of pulling the head its really not a hard job but dont want to do another unneeded job...

 

Set up like this right?

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise rotation

facing front of motor drivers side cylinder id 1 3 5 7

Got gas and spark, and compression, the only thing left is timing. What's a timing light show? Does the engine run at 10 deg BTDC, and the timing mark line up?

 

Understood- I will stop pullign the wires and start shorting them.

Yes- Firing order is correct and the timing is rock solid at 10 deg BTDC.

 

Im shure there is a fix. I have always believed that their isnt a piece of cast iron in the world that can fool you unless you let it. Take the plug,s and wires from the good side and swap with the non firing side. Im thinking mabey its a combo of a couple of little things just not right. Pour a quart of automatic trans fluid down the carb at a high idle. Take the exhaust manifolds off you can see the flame if its firing. Could it be that the manifold or exhaust pipe is clogged? We had dirt daubers completly clog one up once . OldWolf

 

This is a shot in the dark, but at least it costss only time. With a dial indicator, measure exhaust valve travel either on both sides or compared to spec. Maybe you have collapsed exhaust lifters or bad lobes for one side. I have no idea why that would be, but it could cause the issue with a good compression test.
Are the lifters oiled through the block or the push rods on polys? Through the valve train oiling could explain the one side issue.

 

What would the ATF do?

Ive measured with a ruler (dont have a dial ind.) and lift seems to be the same both sides.

I pulled the valve cover on the driver side and pushed on the valves. they were alot easier to push than chevys are. I was excited thinking I found the problem but some mopar guys told me that mopar valve springs are pretty weak so probably not my problem...

Im about ready to throw in the towel, but Im thinking if I find someone to work on it, they will have the same problems... meaning long diagnosis time and high price... Just dont have the cash for that...

Im freakin lost.

 

If you put your hand on the head after it is warmed-up, does the drivers side head seem hotter than the passenger side?