HELP! '41 International Pickup - should I buy it?

True!

~Jason

 

I should be going to do some measurements this afternoon... if I can get somebody to watch the kids.

~Jason

 

Scratch that... make that tomorrow afternoon.

Once again, any info on these is appreciated.

~Jason

 

Yes buy it!!!
Long live the KB-1

Go for it

 

hi..I just got a 55 international pick up in a trade...it is right hand drive..has 73k miles ...runs real good...any one know how rare the right drive is???and where it might have come from???

thanks

 

Post a fucking intro and DONT make multiple posts with the same fucking question.

 

It's from Australia, and I think DocWatson's interested in buying it.

 

I couldn't see the pics of the truck, but I own a 46 k2. You can do a frame swap with an S10, if you go to oldihc and do a search, theres a few guys who have. Otherwise, there is a setup some have come up with to switch to disks. I kept my flathead and straight axle, but if I were to do mine over, fatmans has a MII setup complete, like $1500, and box the frame. Theres info on the site as to what is the best rearend, etc. When you look at the truck, watch out for rust inside above the windshield, water gets in thru the wipers, you can see this tru the removeable panels. IH trucks are very solid otherwise, I lucked out on mine. Rubber is available, and parts are out there.

 

It could be made into a nice truck but I agree with the gent who said that if you are here asking us it may not be the right one for you.
If it were me I would Shorten and kick the frame as Binderrod suggested and hang a subframe under the front. Shorten the frame so you can shorten the box to 6 ft or there abouts. You would have to drop the bed down over the frame the amount of the kick in the frame but to me that would still be easier than screwing with the S 10 setup. Swap some lighter springs in the rear with a proper fitting rear end and away you go.

 

Wow... never expected this one to be revived.

I indeed bought it. It's rust-free, and a KB-3. It has the rare 9' bed, and is missing an interior, rear glass, steering column and drivetrain (rear end is still there). I may end up selling it due to financial BS right now, etc. Besides, my S-10 is out on permanent loan right now, and with this truck, it's better to keep the frame - it's SOLID. I agree though, a subframe job would be worth it - those buggy springs would be hell on the highway, or when you drove over potholes.

If a frame swap is a possability in the future, I'd have to go with a larger, stouter one than an S-10. I've come to the conclusion that I may well need to tow something someday, and that the S-10 frams just won't do what I want. While a rame swap is appealing, on the other hand you can't get much stouter than the original IHC frame to begin with.

I really want my '60 Cadillac back on the road. Although I need the money, I'm still compelled to trade it for body/paint work...

 

maybe this will help..

Here's some stats on the S-10 frame:
3 wheelbases 108", 117", 122". Track (wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface) is 56" front and 55 rear. Frame is 32" wide at the front and 34" wide at the rear. Frame is 3" wide and between 3" and 5" high at key stress points. Frame is boxed from the front to midway of the length, that would put it at just behind the door.

 

Theres a guy on the oldihc.org I think he goes by colobinder. He has a K3 and put it on a chevy truck body, but there were some problems with tire clearance he had to deal with. The IH frame is very strong, and if you decide to keep it I would suggest checking out the fatman kit. The guys on the website go for keeping them stock, but there are a few who have rodded them.

 

Jerry Hill, an awesome Steadicam operator, has a site here:
http://www.steadimoves.com/hobby.html

Look what I found:





Supposedly one of three, and the only hot rodded one.

I emailed him. I always wanted to do a conversion. Maybe someday...

~Jason

 

The S-10 frame swap is pretty easy, i did mine under my 1937 D-15 in about 4 days and that wasen't working to hard at it. The frames are easy to shorten at the factory joint, I started with a x-cab short bed frame, cut all the factory cab mounts off of it and took 9"s out of the frame to put the wheelbase where i needed it. I built new cab mounts out of 2"x3" box tubing and new Scout 2 poly body bushings. The D's don't have much room infront of the front axle so steering box clearence was pretty close but the later K/KB's have a ton of room up there and would be easier to swap. I plan on doing the same swap under my 1946 K-2 once i find another doner S-10. Nothing wrong with the facory IH frames they are stought but for buget wise and what i wanted the S-10 was perfect. The S-10 frames are plenty stong, i plan to box the rest of S-10 frame. Just by looking and measuring the K/KB's i have the chassis swap should be easier on them then the swap on the D.

 

Even boxed, with a 350, is the S-10 frame strong enough to tow a 16' car hauler with a 5k lb Cadillac? Not being a dick or anything, just curious how strong "strong" actually was.

~Jason

 

The stock frame is open C channel with not to many crossembers, so i don't see why a S-10 frame boxed wouldn't be as strong if not stronger, on both the springs are mounted under the frame. Mine will be running a Cummins 4BT, NV4500 and i do plan to tow some with it but not alot thats what the 2 Full size Diesel Dodges i have are for. Or you could do like cornbinder Josh and use a 1960-1966 GM Truck frame with a high dollar M2 front kit.

 

I wondered about that... I just want to be able to use it as a truck, you know?

~Jason

 

You can do the s10 frame thing,,I considered it but then went with a IFS

 

Mine is a stock frame with 3 leafs out of the front on a kb1------check the album under my profile