With this style grinder not having the capability of holding an arbor or shanked cutters, the one bad thing about these is that they can't really be used for much else other than light grinding (with thicker discs). The good thing is it gives you an excuse to buy more grinders!
I see now. My cut off wheels are like that too, uses a socket head bolt to hold the wheel in place. Took me a bit to catch on
i use the thin discs [wizzer] on an electric grinder... i hold it upside down so i can see better... it lets me use a smaller cutting area... i downsize the guard so it only protects my hands... it really digs in, so being able to see what i'm cutting is good... i start with a floppy sanding wheel to get a flat spot.... then i use the wizzer wheel in the grinder to get most of it... then the floppy to finish up... bounce around, you can worp the sheetmetal just as easy grinding as welding...
They look like crappy welds surprised they didn’t fall off. Grind on the welds only then slide a puddy knife behind the patch and cut the welds.
The way the top plate is configured in relation to the body leads met of think of an alternative. If you dont have or want to use a cut off wheel you could use a spot weld remover type bit. Position it close to the weld with the pilot bit close to the tack. I would grind the tack level with the patch piece first. This should release the temporary piece after all the tacks are drilled. It would then be pretty easy to smooth the remaining bits of weld smooth with the original body panel. Just a suggestion that I think would work.
The Jalopy Journal
