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HELP!----broken bolt removal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HOTRODPRIMER, May 6, 2004.

  1. I need to remove a broken bolt in the front of the engine where the alternater mounts,,,The lower bolt has broken off..........Not even with the block but a few threads inside and it wasn't a smooth break!.......it's on an angle.

    I haven't tryed anything except removing the hood,radiator and shell where i can eyeball the problem........gotta get this car back on the road........any ideas? HRP
     
  2. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,546

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    One fast way to remove it would be to place a washer over the hole and mig weld onto the broken bolt until the height of the weld blends onto the washer. Next weld a nut on the washer so that you can wrench it out. If the broken bolt is too deep to weld without damaging the block threads an option would be to place a piece of very thin copper tubing in the hole. This will protect the threads from the weld.
     
  3. Zodoff
    Joined: Aug 9, 2002
    Posts: 526

    Zodoff
    Member

    As said here before,you could try to weld a nut to it.
    or a piece of flat iron with a hole in it..
    The weld will stick to the bolt,but not so good to the cast iron surroundings. use good power on the welder.
    a few punches,and get it out while its still hot.

    Yeah,what Petejoe said.... (your fast!) [​IMG]


     
  4. MBL
    Joined: Mar 14, 2002
    Posts: 1,175

    MBL
    Member

    If you can get some plyers on the part remaining....heat has never failed us with my flathead. If you do the weld deal....I am sure the heat from the welding will be sufficiant...and give you something to grab on to.
    Tim
    MBL
     
  5. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,546

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

  6. banzaitoyota
    Joined: May 2, 2004
    Posts: 547

    banzaitoyota
    Member

    drill out with a left handed drill bit
     
  7. CURIOUS RASH
    Joined: Jun 2, 2002
    Posts: 9,635

    CURIOUS RASH
    Classified's Moderator

    [ QUOTE ]
    broken stud removal

    [/ QUOTE ] <font color="green">Oh, my GAWD!!!

    I learned something today!!!

    And I was trying so hard not to!

    That welding of the washer and the nut to the stud is a great idea....if you have a welder. </font>
     
  8. A photo of the problem........Left handed drill bit? HRP
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,546

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    If you can get a camera in there, looks as though you should be able to get a gun for a mig welder in there. Problem being..where are you going to put your head. [​IMG]
    may have to remove the radiator. Sucks don't it. I had the same thing happen when removing the waterpumps on my flathead. I also had to reach into a water outlet to get to the bolt.
     
  10. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,355

    Andy
    Member

    I will share what I do. I use a Torx bit. I drill THRU the bolt and hammer in a Torx bit that is the largest that will go in. It cuts splines as it is insereted. The Torx bit needs to be ground flat on the end so it can cut.Usually will come out without heat. If chancy, a little heat will collapse the shell of the bolt and the Torx bit will remove it. I have used this method on everything including twisted off exhaust manifold studs. Never has failed and never hurt anything.
     
  11. banzaitoyota
    Joined: May 2, 2004
    Posts: 547

    banzaitoyota
    Member

    Start with a small 1/8" Left Handed (Reverse Twist)Drill bit. Center punch the stud. Drill (use lots of cutting fluid). Move up in size of the drill bit. The majority of the time, the vibration and direction of the bit will back the stud out.

    Bits can be found here:
     
  12. Not a problem getting to the problem as the radiator is already removed.......the problem is the lack of a mig,,,,

    A friend of mine has a well equiped shop,,,,but the car is in my shop,,,,guess its time to break down and buy a mig and retire the arc.........HRP
     

    Attached Files:

  13. banzaitoyota
    Joined: May 2, 2004
    Posts: 547

    banzaitoyota
    Member

  14. Upchuck
    Joined: Mar 19, 2004
    Posts: 1,576

    Upchuck
    Member
    from Canada BC

    if you got a dremel tool you might be able to make a "center punch" mark on slow speed and then drill that bolt out, not to often have I seen them bolts break that usually a pretty well lubed area of the engine due to leaks, spills etc. I bet it will come out pretty easy
     
  15. Thanks for the ideas,,,,,,,got it out the ol' timers way..

    A drill and 2 different easyouts(Hell,nothing EASY about it!)

    I thought I had it and tried to bolt the alternator back on,,,,,,,,the bolt was broken in 2 pieces inside the block
    more drillin' and a few choice words and I got the other piece out.............Now,spend the rest of the day puttung it back together and wire everything back up,,,,,,,,,and if my luck holds out be riding topless tonight!!!!!!

    Thanks again for the input ,,,I did learn something today! [​IMG]HRP
     

    Attached Files:

  16. I'll tell ya what ya learned...you learned somebody before you busted off a bolt in that hole and then you broke one off too. Congrats on getting the wreckage out...
    Might wanna look at alignment of the bracket and the stress placed on it. Quite a coincidence that 2 bolts broke off in that hole, doncha think?
     
  17. banzaitoyota
    Joined: May 2, 2004
    Posts: 547

    banzaitoyota
    Member

    Using a left handed bit when you were already drilling the hole for the easy-put probably would have precluded the risk of using an easy out. No I dont own stock in Lefties Left Handed Bit Factory [​IMG]
     
  18. One last word. God with you, if you break the easy out or bit. So be always careful when you turn the ratchet.
     

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