Help Build my 327 Chevy Small Block!

any update on this 'un?

 

I know one that turned 10K for two years without one problem on the dragstrip....I am pretty sure I have seen 8 with mine once....and a friend of mine had one that turned close to 10 drag racing....I think he run B gas he said.

 

That's a damn good book!!!.... Still have my copy that I bought way back in '76...

 

Took my stocker to 8 grand a couple of times.. Scared the shit out of me also...

 

Small block Chevrolets will take some rpm that's for sure. Engines that turn 8000+ rpm regularly are not your everyday builds. For the given application this motor would never need to see north of 7000 and more than likely 6500 would be a better number.

I don't know falcongeorge but the recipe and suggestions he gave will yield an engine that will produce all the power you need and do so reliably. The only thing I would add is that you will not realize the difference between 1.94 and 2.02 heads until the upper ends of rpm. Obviously this is with the rest of the head work being equal. The point he made, and is true, is most 1.94 heads have had few valve jobs and the seats are sunk into oblivion. Many of sets of 2.02's have started as 1.94's that are worn. My point is, if you have/find a nice set of 1.94's and have a good head guy do the work you will probably never know the difference unless you normally work the engine at the upper end of it's power band.

 

Ya thay will do 9k ONCE

 

The whole 9 grand deal with SJ SBC is sort of an old wives tale. Sure they rap faster but, remember this...after you pass a certain point in your power band, all you are doing is tempting fate.

 

Falcongeorge and dblgun know what they are talking about. Myself I like the bigger valves like Falcongeorge suggests but I run a stick with 4.10's and like things that rev. As dblgun said you might prefer the 1.94's if your auto has a tight converter and your not as concerned with top end power. As far as 8000, 9000,10,000 rpm's with a stock 365hp 327 forget it. Also the 30 30 cam is horrible with an automatic with a stock converter.

 

Git her done yet????...

 

I know this thread is a bit older but looking for some input on an engine thats in a 75 c10 I just bought. Its a 327 bored to 331. The cam specs are comp cam 277/282, 470 lift at 50. Is this good? I have mid length headers and the spark plugs are almost impossible to change. Unless theres a tool I need. I have dual 2.5" exhaust and some small 8" glass packs. I feel like theres no back pressure and it way too loud when I punch it.

 

7000 rpm in the real world!

 

9K once

 

you have it backwards. the 327 have the small rib. the 283 has the larger rib. the picture is a 64 283 engine. there is a exception the 67 283 has the small rib like the 327 small journal did.

 

George you are absolutely correct about the ridge reamer. I should have mentioned to be gentle with it.

I used the crane L-79 blueprint in my 355 you can pick up the HP by slowing it down a little bit (about 1.5 degrees made mine work real well give or take a little bit). That crane 2050 is a roller cam isn't it? A good choice for todays power plants. Aren't they in the .5 lift range?

I am not familiar with the Isky.

 

hyd. flat tappet.

Edit: DOH! Wrong part number, I took it from a 20yr old catalog, looks like its changed. I'll get the right number off their website and add it here. I was looking at the old HMV-278 Harvey designed in the eighties, looks like the number has changed.

Heres the right cam
http://www.jegs.com/i/Crane-Cams/271/113801/10002/-1

 

Back in 1955 my uncle turned wrenches at the GM dealer. He called the 265 a 90 day wonder. They had a 90 day warranty and if it lasted 90 days it was a wonder. The engines where all solid lifter. And would wind until the points bounced. Well the rodders double springed the points. and the piston was a flat top no valve reliefs. So they collided the valves with the pistons. My uncle got about $12 to change a warranty engine. He quit and went to the ford garage. The replacement engines had hyd lifters and the 56 265 did also. the lifters would cause valve float before the blew up. Ive had a hard time making a small block turn 8 grand. It was easy to make a 289 ford turn 8500 RPM. All it took was better valve springs and a solid lifter cam. I still have the 289. it would blow oil everywhere when wound past 8 grand. I think the 4 inch bore and 3 inch stroke is the reason. A 283 crank in a 327 block is what you need if high RPM is your goal.

 

Ive got a snap on ridge reamer that cuts from the bottom up. It wont cut deeper than the cyl bore. and will cut all the ridge from a out of round bore. It was high dollar but it was worth every penny.

 

The claims of RPM's reached is starting to smell a little like BS to me.