Help, car just quit on me....

it just goes from the alternator to the battery, that's it. IT's just somethign the guy put on so the battery would charge even though the rest of the wiring was shot. I followed the alternator wire all teh way to the panel and didnt' find juice anywhere, so I dunno what the hell the deal is...I wish I knew someone local like you who kenw wiring and actually liked it! Last night I had every odl wino that hangs out behind the gas station tryign to help "HEY! I can start that thing for ya! HOw much money ya got!?"

 

The wire he's got runnin' from the alternator to the battery is the thick one, I'm sure, That's fine. It should be 'hot' then if your battery is good.

The wire that goes from the alternator to your fusebox (?) is likely the 'exciter' wire run to keyed power...it won't be hot unless the key is on.

(I'd run the 'exciter' wire to the accessory terminal on the key)

You said earlier that the car will start and everything worked when you ran a wire from the battery to the ignition switch. I suspect a problem with the wire that is SUPPOSED to feed your ignition switch...check every inch of that wire and see what you find.

 

ok I'm gonna go back out and***** around with it and see what i can figure out...I think I almost went through the whole wire earlier, everywhere I check it it just barely read any power (like 1 volt) so I'm guessing a bad connection or maybe mu multimeter is a little wore out...I'll let ya know....

 

Maybe as much as you hate too, ya might wanna bag the cruise till you get things sorted out. You don't want to get stranded OR have a melt down. It ain't worth it for the sake of a lousy cruise. Hate to say that but !!

 

Ok, I've been following this thread and have come to several conclusions.
1...you've got some "temporary" wiring in place just as a band-aid fix. One fix appears to be a wire going from the alternator to the fuse panel instead of going through an ampmeter and to the battery. It'll still work that way if that circuit is complete. Your circuit is not complete. If ya gotta go the hawg rassle, I'd run a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the ignition switch, to feed it.Hook the wire to the "Batt" post of the ign switch. That will send current to the fuse panel, allowing a complete circuit and your car will run and your alternator will charge. Why the old wire burnt in half, I dunno. Maybe you'll find out. Follow the smoke.

 

that's exactly what I did rocky, Drove all over today with no problems besides me doing something completly retarded (somehow the radiator car didn't get locked into place...engine bath anyone?) When I get it back in teh shop on monday I'll try to track down the problem....

 

Does the Easy wire kit have a main fuse, circuit breaker or fusable link? Did you check the fuses? It usually comes back to the simple things. You should be able to find the interuption in the wire with a test light easily. You'll need to disconnect the jumper wire to test the original wires.

 

Learn the basics about cars....old cars are really quite simple, but you need to know where to start when you have a problem....especially if you are on the road and don't have a computer and online help to get you going. I always carry a test light and a jumper wire when out on the road. Add a screwdriver to the kit and you can usually get most cars going again. The screwdriver makes the starter turn...the hot wire gets juice to the ingition and a test light lets you know where a problem could possible be. I always take the problem back to the basics...troubleshoot using the basic wiring that is needed to make it run...battery, starter, ignition and if you have these, you will get home... a charging system is needed, but if its daylight, a fully charged batt will usually get ya home....gas in the carb is also needed. All these things can be checked on the side of the road...especially with an older car with points and a carb.

Keep it simple and learn the basics of automotive repair....get a book or take a night course....then you can do it yourself.

 

Glad ya got to drive your car today, Switch. Now, before you drive it anymore you get to do like Tommy says. Use your test light to find where the problem is. There's probably some kinda circuit protection built in to the ign. switch feed wire that's been tripped. Maybe a blown fuse but I doubt it. Probably more like a blown fusible link inside the main feed wire. Test for current where the main feed wire connects to it's source...probably at the starter solenoid. [big post] Feel along that wire to see if you have a blown fusible link. The wire should go to the ammeter, if you're using one. A blown link will feel like there's no wire inside the insulation...there isn't! It's made to burn in half if there's too great of load on the electrical system, saving the wiring from burning up and causing a fire.
Test for current at the other end of the main feed wire. If no current, find out why. If there is, follow the wire along to the ammpmeter and test both sides of it...should be current at both posts on it. If not, replace it. if so, follow the wire to the ignition switch but wait! You've already run your jumper to the switch and now you know the switch works.. your problem is a simple delivery problem to the switch. I'm sure by now you've already found and repaired the problem. Good luck.
BUT!... you lost power for a reason..find out if you have a short in the wiring to ground. You may have a problem I had on my 56 Olds when I was 16. Main feed wire went through the firewall and someone had removed the rubber grommet. Wire rubbed on sharp edge of metal behind my engine and pfffffffttttttttttt!
If that isn't it, check for any component in your electrical system pulling a lot of amperage. I do this***** for a living, so I have a nice, hand held 100 amp meter with aligator clips on each wire. You can take an automotive ammeter and run a wire off each post with a roach,,,,er aligator clip on the end of each wire..Take your jumper wire loose from your ignition switch and hook the ammeter leads thus..one to the jumper wire you just unhooked and the other to the ignition switch post it was hooked to. Turn on the ignition switch and check the reading. Don't start the engine just yet....is it over 5 amps? Cooling fan off? Lights off? Fuel pump off? Make sure only the coil is turned on. Anything under 5 amps is good. Now, turn on each component separately, fan, fuel pump, brake lights, etc etc and watch the meter... If any one of them consumes over 20 amps, trace through it's circuitry to find out why. Run a jumper wire to the component that's giving you trouble, with your ammmeter spliced into that circuit and watch the reading...if it's measurably lower than the first test, there's a wiring problem in that circuit. If the reading is still too high, the component is faulty. I'm not gonna go any further with this now but if you follow these suggestions, you'll find 95% of any electrical problems you'll likely find in a hot rod...

 

Listen Switch'-heres a little advise- when you do a re wire do a total re wire.....I mean -do not "leave" this and "mix" that.RIP IT ALL OUT AND START AND FINISH WITH ONE WIREING SYSTEM.[ok lecture is over]

 

I had this happen to me, and it turned out being a faulty fuser panel. Got power in, but nothing out. I really hope it is nothig major because my system got*****ed and I had to drop the panel and re-wire EZ Wire's***** up. I hate their kits and will never use another. Sorry to here you angst. Mine burned thru the buss bar between the main feed and the next terminal on the back...