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Hot Rods Help Channeling '31 Coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by CHEN, Aug 1, 2014.

  1. CHEN
    Joined: Oct 21, 2009
    Posts: 58

    CHEN
    Member

    Hey Guys,

    I've tried my best using the search function, but it seems every thread I found where someone asks for help with channeling a model a, someone says something along the lines of "FNG....search function...theres plenty of good threads that have all that info". I'm having trouble finding that thread with all the glorious info, so if anyone happens to know the link it would be much appreciated :)

    I get the general idea, cut out the floor, set it over the rails, build a subframe over the rail, connect it to the body, skin the floor. When I cut the floor out, do I need to brace the body so it doesn't twist out of shape and stuff? Also, whats the best way to set the body over the rails as I figure out where I want the body to sit? I have about 2 guys I can call for help, and the thought of them holding the body up while I make decisions is funny but doesn't seem practical. Do you guys use jack stands? weld some tabs into place and just keep adjusting?

    It's my first build and I'm kinda clueless haha

    Thanks!
     
  2. In the past we have just welded tabs on the bottom of the frame and dropped the body down onto them to support the body until we tied it in to the braces. This gives you a drop equal to the frame width. I would brace the body with crosses before chopping out the floor of course.
     
  3. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    Yes, brace the body before removing it from the frame and before you cut anything. I like to use electrical emt conduit since it's cheap and readily available.

    Jack stands, wood blocking, concrete block, whatever you have handy is what you can use to prop up the body while deciding on its height. I've seen guys suspend the body from the rafters to achieve height. Whatever works and is safe, there are no other rules!

    Now let's see some build pix!
     
  4. I have done this project more than once. A few years back I posted several photos of doing my 30 Roadster. Like you I can't even find mt old post on this new system. Also I type with only 2 fingers but I'll try to help out some anyway. I tend to do things totally different than most and often hear " Why didn't I think of that?". I just live by K.I.S.S. If you have a solid and good fitting Coupe to start with do not start your project by cutting out the floor and sub rails. Work on top of what you have then cut out the old. That way you won't fight realignment. You should still do some bracing but leave it bolted to the frame. This Roadster got channeled 4". Here are a few construction photos. Rather try to explain it all step by step. Ask me some questions. Less typing for me and in shorter time.
    The Wizzard

    Holly Crap!! Where did the manage your account go so I can attach photo's? Upload a file don't give any options. Just says no file selected. W.T.F?
     
  5. Thought I'd try this photo post again. Got the 12 year old neighbor kid to help me.
    The Wizzard

    30 roadster floorboards 001.jpg 30 roadster floorboards 002.jpg 30 roadster floorboards 003.jpg 30 roadster floorboards 007.jpg
     
  6. CHEN
    Joined: Oct 21, 2009
    Posts: 58

    CHEN
    Member

    Thanks for the tips guys, super helpful and I think I have a pretty good grasp on it now.

    I was thinking, if I plan on Z'ing the frame, should I do that first before channeling the body? Because I was originally thinking to channel the body first to see how much Z I want to put on the frame, if that makes any sense. Should I have my suspension and chassis all buttoned up before I worry about channeling?
     
  7. I would do the Z first. The typical is a 4 inch which is the width of the frame but you are not limited by that factor alone for sure.
     
  8. Take this into consideration. How much trunk space do you want? My Roadster is Flathead and closed drive. My first chassis was Z'd 4" and Channeled 4". That put the trunk floor above the bottom edge of the deck lid. That didn't work for me. I built a new chassis using a 36 rear axle and got back 4" of trunk space. It just ment streching the frame to move the crossmember back for the spring. I'll see if I can get some photo's of that up in a bit.
    The Wizzard
     
  9. Here's some photos. First is Banger power with 4" Channel and 4" Z. Next is 4" channel and 4" Z inside the trunk opening. Notice how far up the side brace is for the floor. Next ones are of the flat floor. I like it a lot better.
    The Wizzard
     

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