Technical HELP! Cracked 216 Chevy block.

216 Chevy, it is not to late, pull it and junk it. I was only a kid with a 47 Chevy Panel truck with a crack 216. Talk to a old time Hot Rodder and he said, "it is not to late, pull it and junk it", but at the age of 16 to young to hear what he was saying. Pullen the crack 216 and replace it with another 216, after everything was cleaned and repainted. Ran great, this one was crack also. The guy even told me that the 216 would not stand up to a teen ager driving, had babbit bearings, and most that he saw were crack.

 

Research stitch lock repairs I have used them on many industrial and automotive repairs

 

When repairing a crack in about anything a radius at the end of the crack will keep the crack from traveling. Often welding isn't required if the crack doesn't extend onto water or oil passage, you can just drill it and shove a screw in it. Either way the hole is to stop the crack where it is.

 

OP does not state intentions to car, reading between the lines the customer just wants it on the road. In that case I would clean the area thoroughly and JB Weld. You could drill little holes at the ends of the cracks to stop them spreading. This will work even if the crack goes into the water passage.

If it was a rebuild, get a better engine. If it is a restoration where the engine number is important, have it stitched.

 

Haha I didn't even catch that. When I read his post I read 1/8" hole. Looking back yep he said eight.

 

Contact someone who does repairwork on farm implements or large diesel trucks; both items are too big to take to the welder (the welder comes to you), and too expensive to just throw away. If you fill out your profile, like where you are and such, you might get more help, especially if you're in an agriculture area with members having just the experience I mentioned. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

They are saying your post says drill an 8 inch hole. I'm sure you meant drill an 1/8th inch hole.

 

fixed it. I would blame it on spellcheck but we all know that's wrong. Duh'Oh

 

Thanks for the input.

I think we got 'er licked.

We covered the outside of the welded area with machinable epoxy and used sodium silicate sealer in the coolant. So far we have run it up to temperature and cooled it twice with no apparent leaks.