Patience is the most important tool, have you thoroughly soaked in PB Blaster or Krols? Are you using aModel A type hub puller? Is there anyway to look into backing plate and see if drum is hung up on brake shoes? Any way to adjust shoes away from drum? How much heat? Oxy acetylene or Mapp gas, I know lp gas is just not hot enough. Sometimes it just takes a while.....you could try melting a candle into the space between axle shaft and drum, sometimes that hot wax runs further into the hub than does anything else. Good luck, be careful of your axle threads and boogering them up!
The correct puller will have a 'half-circle' flange that slips over the forged 'turtleneck collar' of the hub. (this puller can be rented from a rental yard, O'Reilly's parts, etc.) When there is sufficient 'press' at the axle stub, (corelated to about 80 Ft. Lbs, or torque with a torque wrench) the center adjusting bolt can be struck with a lead or br*** hammer. Just a couple of strikes should do it. If not, go to 90 ft. lbs., strike again. (uh, that'd be strike 2) You know what happens next.
Sometimes it just takes a while.....you could try melting a candle into the space between axle shaft and drum, sometimes that hot wax runs further into the hub than does anything else. This works real well if the car is on its side...
fixed it for ya! if the brake linings are rusted to the drums, you gotta heat'em and beat'em, Use an acetylene torch, tap around the drum, pry with several pry bars
A really, really, big BFH on the end of the puller....did my 48 Chrysler that way...j...before you put the puller on the drum, put the nut on flush with the axle end to save the threads....back off on the shoe adjusters too.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=708121 Some Chrysler guys are singing praises for this hub puller
Rear hubs go on a tapered shaft and wedge together. You need a real big puller. Leave the hub nut on loose, flush with the end of the shaft. This will stop the hub flying across the shop like a guided missile. Put on the big puller and tighten it as hard as it will go. If it doesn't come loose leave it overnight and tighten again. Maybe heat will help, I never tried it, I have a factory puller and they always come off for me. You need a real good puller though.
You need a hub puller like this one. The kind you turn by hitting it with a sledge hammer. Some have a one-piece cone-shaped base instead but the "spinner" is the key part.
Personally, if I ever was building a car with one of these tapered axle rearends, my first project would be to the nearest you-pick junkyard with tools and a tape measure and go through the Mopar and Ford section for something with the right width to replace it with. For the $50 or $100 to have something I don't need to bust my *** to work on the brakes on is well worth the time even if I have to move or install new perches on the replacement rearend. Plus, at least here locally, I can get a whole rearend for less than the cost to buy one of those pullers, the last guy I saw selling one wanted $80, the last rearend I bought was $50 drum to drum complete.
i agree with rustynewyorker, too much h***le with the old, rusty hard to remove anything, get newer and better and get on down the road.
Smack the dogbone, then smack the end, repeat 3-4 times, then rest. Have a beer. Repeat. Probably about the third beer, it'll go 'bang' all by itself. If you aren't using the above puller, you'll never succeed. Cosmo
E-brake is on the back of the transmission............. And, I agree with RustyNewYorker........piss poor way to design an axle/hub...imo...and I have/had several Mopars........ Ray
Oh jeez those are nasty. You do need the big puller and the big hammer. Lots of places that rent tools don't carry that style of puller anymore. You may have to find someone with heavy truck tools that can come to you or lend you some. Maybe try your local dodge club for an old Mopar mechanic he may have one. Also leave the nut on a couple of turns cause they can really pop when they let go. I have a Cuda rearend under my 56 just cause dealing with once was enough, we broke one puller getting one drum off. Put it back on and s****ped the rearend. Try the forward look forum for some Mopar nuts in your area as well.
One other thing you might try,..........loosen the nut a turn or two, at most, REINSTALL the cotter pin, and drive the damn thing around the block, making left and right turns. May pop it loose...........may not.......but should be no harm in trying. Ray
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