HELP...I need some clutch linkage and Master Cyl pics!

I'm in need of some good clutch linkage and master cyl mounting pics. It is going to be in my A with my 235 and 3 speed. I'm wooried on how the clutch will work right next to my dual resavoir MC. Any pics or diagrams would be great, thanks.
-Jesse

 

Anyone? BTTT
-Jesse

 

Clutch linkages are hard to figure out. The method I've always used is a hydraulic setup using Wilwood parts from Speedway.
Cheap 'n' easy, no geomerty********* involved.

 

The original clutch setup on a 235 was via the master cylinder. If you need pics of that, I can help you (PM me a reminder). If you ditched you original MC, can you put the original back in just for the anchor points?

 

I'm buildin it completely from scratch so thats why I need pics of various clutch linkage pics. I'll draw up a diagram and see what you all think of it. How for of a swing does the throw out arm make?
-Jesse

 

Here is a quickey I did on paint. It shows the brake rod going under the throwout arm, and the short rod going to the throw out arm, I hope this helps a bit. Any suggestions?

 

So it came out a bit grainey, you can still see kinda what I'm planing on.
-Jesse

 

There's a really good article in the November '78 issue of popular Hot Rodding. It deals with building the bell crank, pedal, and the ratio stuff required to make it work. I followed it in building the clutch linkage in my Y-block 4spd "A" PU. If you can't find a copy this weekend, send me a PM and I can Fax you the article Monday at work.

Corn

 

Don't know if this will help, but here tis anyway.

Once upon a time I stuck a built Olds Rocket - 303" - into a 50 Ford coupe.
One of the conflicts was that the Ford's original throwout arm pointed out and down at about a 30 degree angle.
When the Olds went in with it's Caddy sideshift trans, the Olds (stock stick bellhousing, there are two versions) the throwout arm was level.
All of which made for a bad deal cuz you couldn't simply connect the two. It would have worked, but there would be a considerable down loading on the throwout arm and it could have been a problem.

The cure was a pair of pillow block bearings - bushing type - mounted on a small 1/4" plate.
A 1" or so diameter shaft ran between them and a 1/4" thick tab with several adjustment holes was welded to the shaft.

The plate was welded to the underside of the frame up under and close to the steering box.
The plate was also long enough to align the pillow block bearing many-holes tab with the Olds throwout arm as well as the Ford clutch pedal tab.
A 3/8" diameter rod was made that went from Ford clutch pedal tab to the pillow block tab, one hole down from the top. This rod was made up with a 90 degree bend at each end and drilled for a cotter pin. (Split pin in the UK I believe.) A couple of flat washers on each side of the clutch pedal tab and the pillow block tab, couple of cotter pins and that took care of that part.

Another 3/8" rod was made, one end bent at a 90 as on the first rod and drilled as well for a cotter pin. This end went into the pillow block tab in the top hole.
The other end of this rod was tapped 3/8-NF I think it was, this to match the stock Olds half round adjuster nut and regular lock nut.

Once the Olds half round adjuster nut was adjusted for the correct clutch free-play, I found the whole thing to work well.
The Ford clutch pedal tab/rod pulled on an ok angle - uphill a bit - and the Olds rod was a level direct inline push to the Olds throwout arm.

Never did use the additional holes that I'd done in case ratio's needed some changing.

I ran this setup for quite a while and never saw any appreciable wear on the double rod setup where it rode in the unbushed drilled holes.
If I did it again, I'd probably make it with some bronze bushings and the capability for greasing it, but I ran the Ford coupe this way for quite a while and no problems.