help!!!my battery is killing me

I have a 53 chevy belair---96 chevysmallblock 350-----put in new battery---after a while won't start---charge battery,starts, 3 days later,won't start-a vicious cycle-----can any one----give some advice ---on toubleshooting ----much appreciated

 

Does your alt./gen. work? If so is it a high enough amp rating to keep your battery charged? I know a lot of the time the stock alt./gen. cant keep up with the drain when you end up using things like an aftermarket stereo, air ride, ect.

 

disconnect the - side of the battery, use a test light between the ground wire and the - side of the battery (- = ground) with every thing off the light should be off, if not start pulling fuzes one at a time until the light goes out. that's the problem curcuit.. Make sure there is no clock or dome lights on. It's not very hard at all just takes time.

Mick

 

Autozone, Checker, ; They hook up and check for free. Sounds like it isn't charging, or something is on, like brake light switch sticking?

 

If you have a radio with a station saver (power always on) disconnect that also

 

Start vehicle, chevk for 13.2-14.2 v at the positive post to ground
if it is good
pull the negative cable off {engine off, key off} and check for voltage between the ground wire and negative post. If voltage is found disconnect the alternator. if voltage is still flowing pull fuses one at a time until voltage flow stops.

 

-ps- if you check for voltage between the ground and negative post and find none run a load check on the battery. a cell may be dead

 

Check the wiring from alternator and see if it is wired wrong at the 2 wire plug. sounds like you have a drain on the battery. will need a diode to correct this situation.

 

Another spin on this: leave battery hooked up; use ammeter (most DMM's will work for small loads) across terminals of each fuse connection. Another way of doing same basic thing, but tells the amp draw of each circuit.

A circuit that has a miniscule draw that would take a month to flatten a good battery (say 10mA) will still show voltage using test below; however you'll see that it ain't **** if you check w/ ammeter. Always best to check circuits under a load.

Other tricks: use voltmeter between pos terminal of battery (not the cable) and stud on end of alternator. also check voltage between battery terminal and ch***is ground (like frame or engine block). Do tests w/ engine running; will tell if you have poor/marginal connections in wiring. Don't freak if something looks good (clean/shiny) but has voltage drop; try cleaning it again anyway - or soldering it if possible. I've seen it happen on more than one car (Honda sensor grounds on engine wiring harness - buried under tape; look great but have intermittent fault). Also, if you don't find parasitic draw (something being naughty and staying on) or voltage drop on ground or charge wires, have someone w/ an inductive ammeter and carbon pile tester load test your alternator in the car. Shouldn't take a good tech more than ten minutes; the bucks you spend is way cheaper than throwing parts...

Best of luck!