Gotcha. To bleed off the pressure. So to be correct I need to tighten the poky lock to take out all lash? It's a solid lifter cam, will that still work?
Remember : If the noise is about the same frequency as the timing light, that puts you into a cam speed related issue. Noise 2x the frequency of the light puts you into a crank speed related issue.
Like this procedure as opposed to just killing the spark! That's a new one on me. Wonder if that might help isolate a wrist pin noise as well....
Sorry if this has been covered all ready but I'm in a rush this morning and wanted to help if I could. An exabust manifold leak can also make a "ticking" noise. May just make sure your header bolts have not got loose. Happens a lot. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I think the noise is too perfectly timed to whatever is happening mechanically. Until I open the engine up, it could be anything. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Is there anything related to the distributor drive gear, oil pump shaft or oil pump that could be doing this also? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Might pull the dist, and look at the gears. Maybe try another just to rule it out. Valve spring cracked or broken?
I recently installed a new distributor and am now wondering if that had anything to do with it. Thanks
Yes, there's a lot of things happening back in the vicinity of # 8cly, and that are cam speed related. I mentioned this in an earlier post.
Shortly after. I measured the cam gear clearance and had 0.030" and made sure the dist shaft was not bottomed out and without any movement when installed. There was not excessive clearance but still some up and down. About 0.025" as best I could measure. What should I look for around the pump area. Thanks all this is giving me some direction.
should have thought of this earlier, but record the car running with your hamb app'd iPhone! want to hear the sounds...
Turn the engine over by hand, and check the lift on #8 intake and exhaust valves; compare with valve lifts on a cyl toward the front. Methinks you have flattened a cam lobe. (specifically #8 exhaust) Hemi32: If you pull the plug and start the engine, the whole neighborhood will hear it. The noise is hellacious.
Flat cam lobe or bad lifter would make that tappet and/or rocker noisy. As well as throw the compression off. You could do a cranking compression test as well as a dynamic (engine running) compression test.
If you record the video, then post it to YouTube and just paste the link here. I really hope it's something simple and the engine is ok.
Pull the intake and check the lifters to make sure your not damaging crank and bearings with cam grindings. Couple hours and intake gaskets is cheap insurance. Did you break cam in with double valve springs in place? High valve spring pressure can wipe a cam during break in.
When you open a valve you do not have the comp stroke pushing on the piston it just free floats different than pulling the plug wire. And it could help on a wrist pin noise diagnosis
What kind of oil you using ? And are you using zink additive ? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The engine shop that built my 327 told me to use straight weight oil They told me to use rotella t1 30 with zinc How was cam broke in? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The timing light thing, if the noise is in sync with light on-light off it would be lower end. If it's light on only you're looking up top. I'd drop the old distributor back in and rule the new one out if it's still there. Anything you may have done from the time it appeared? Go back to your baseline and start over 1 at a time. The basics always win so, good luck with it and thanks for keeping the board in the loop. These topics help everyone reading them.
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