The casting around the guides is cracked also. They may be able to be saved, but it will depend on how bad the cracks are and at what point you draw the line with comfort. If they were mine, I would probably bail on them. Mostly because where there is smoke there is fire. If one went, how long till another? Between the crank issues and the damage due to the guides it should be pretty obvious there were some issues at the shop. I would talk to them at this point and see what they are willing to do for you. If they want to play hardball contact your BBB and have them talk to them on your behalf. Then go from there.
i bought the heads already ported. They were fairly inexpensive. I had the shop do the valve job, surfacing etc. the valves are nice milo don pieces. I'm thinking of getting a set of dart iron eagles etc. bare and transferring the hardware over. The valves are 1.94/1.50s. Am I leaving much on the table staying with this valve size?? New bare castings are pretty tempting. The darts have 165cc runners. I think the biggest choke in breathing with my setup is the old Offy tri power intake. I'm not looking for all out performance, but I'd like to have a balanced package that has a little rowdiness to it.
Did the machine shop actually replace the guides or were they in the heads when you got them? If your machinist replaced them... go talk to them. If they are a decent shop, they should fix them without questioning it. And yes, they should replace the piston and furnish your gaskets too.
Whomever put the guides in, did the deed. You are not at fault. Figure out where the guides went in, and that's who's buying you new heads.
The valve stem guide material still doesnt explain why there was so much bearing wear, in such short time. But, with the oversite of the installation of the valve guides, what else was overlooked at the shop? If they work with you at all, it will probably be towards another engine build with them. I would move on to another shop.
There's more than one problem here. So there's one explanation for each problem right? Devin would have never known the journals were screwy if the guides didnt flake off or if he went for the top end first . I'm still trying to figure out if this machine shop put the guides in or if the guides came in the heads he bought.
He did say that the machine shop did a valve job. They should have said something if they did not do the guides.
You'd figure but out of all the quote "valve jobs" unquote on all the heads I've toted off to the machine shops valve guides aren't included in a valve job, they are extra. I recently took a set of 2001 vortec heads in with 180k miles and a bent valve. Machinist couldn't believe the superb condition of the guides.
This thread is a good diagnosis of SBC noises. Devin your pics really help with checking out what is happening. I was wondering if the bearing wipe-wear might be a result of the valve guide pieces not letting the piston top-out easily.
My mistake was not being specific with instructions to the heads. I asked for them to check them out and go through them so that I would be good to go. The machinist came back to me and said that some if the valve seats were not installed at even depths and that the heads needed surfacing. I asked him to get them up to snuff and install the matching springs to my cam. I made the ***umption that he would correct or at least notify me of any issues along the way. In all fairness, the problem may have not been evident at the time. Next time I'm going to give specific and detailed instructions and have the work done in writing. No ambiguity.
Anyone care to speculate how michael machine shop would charge to: Regrind and polish crank Straighten crank if necessary Straighten rods if necessary Repair the heads Clean and inspect the block? I've been looking into what a new **** crank and rods with hypereutectic pistons and it doesn't seem crazy expensive. I could even reuse the cast pistons and save further. The main bearings would have to be turned down to small journal size if that's possible. I'm also looking at the un***embled dart 165cc iron eagles at 600 for the pair and reusing my valves, springs and guides.
The **** crank will be cast. You might be better off finding an original used one and have it turned. The earlier 327 cranks were forged. The machine shop I use charges $75 to turn and polish cranks.
It's a forged crank. I'd rather not spend the money, but if the machining is expensive, I might be better off replacing it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sounds like you should have been notified. Have a talk with him and see if you fell comfortable with him to fix the problem.
Is that an intake? If so, I'm su****ious something went down the intake and bounced around before getting into the cylinder. Looks like strike damage on the edges. Just guessing.
What a shame for a fresh motor to go bad in a big way on you. I would present everything to the engine builder and see what he says. You did a good job with the tear-down and ****ysis of each and every part of it. Bob
I'd polish the crank, check the big end of the rods for round, buy 1 new piston, replace the oil pump,clean the block and re***emble the short block . New head castings aren't a bad idea, but good early castings are available for $150-200 a pair. I agree the original shop wasn't much help to you, and owes you , but I think I would find someone else.. you know , the old good money after bad thing.
If you go the roller cam route, its going to be 800+ extra at least. You will need special lifters, shorter pushrods, timing cover, and cam ****on. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
I dropped the engine off today. The machinist is going to go through everything and get it up to snuff. He's going to look at my cam and see if it's worn. If it checks out I'm going to run it.
I now have one more thing that I have learned about iron heads, I will have to ask my engine guy if thats ever happen to him.
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