OK, so im all ready to start a customers flathead, installing the plugs. Seems #1 and #8 plug holes are stripped. LOOK clean. Machine shop said they were OK, so we didnt check (live and leran). THese are Eldelbrock ALuminum Heads. Is it safe to heli-coil it ON the engine? I know its not really, but has anyone done it and had luck?
What else did the machine shop CHECK? There are some plug repair kits we have used on bikes before. Still haven't had any come back. I've seen it done when the customer wants the cheap way out. tim
If there was ever an engine that was easy to pull the heads on, the flathead is it. What will you save by not pulling the heads? A gasket? Pull 'em - you know it's the right thing to do.
I agree that the safe way to do it is to remove the head. But i have had this done on a couple of Volvo engines, and it had worked ok.. If you grease the tap, first so you dont get any shavings into the chamber it will work.
The only reason I was hoping ot do it ON the engine is that we are using studs, so, its a lot more involved than just pulling out 48 head bolts. Was wanting to save about 3 hours, seeing as how you have to pull all but about 6 head studs back out to remove/install the head. I know it is a rather dumb question, but 3 hours would save me 180.00 in labor i could spend elsewhere. Thats all. Thanks for the replies!
I have not used Helicol but a special insert that you dont have to knock anything of. Something like this http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi11.html or this http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd2125.html
its not that hard to pull the heads,besides if you get any shavings in there your flattie will probably be toast.
If the engine would die because of some aluminum shavings. How come a lot of guys get dont use airfilters on the multi stromberg setups. On the other hand i had a friend that had a piece of gasket (dont ask men how it got there) stuck between the exhaust valve and seat, leaving the valve open. And that one created a meltdown valve. If you use the insert in the proper way it will work, its done all the time. But finaly if in any doubt's remove the head and be safe, as i said above.
There are special inserts for repairing sparkplug holes, they have a shoulder on top so there is no tab to break off. Grease the tap and back often to clean and it will work. On the other hand, if you are really careful this backing out to clean the tap from chavings will take so much time that on a flathead you will probably save time by taking the head off. ...and if two holes are already gone, the same guy who installed the plugs there probably torqued the rest of them as well. What condition are they in?
Also, as someone pointed out above, overtightening the studs can be bad for fit because the threads are actually running out of travel when tightened against the block, and the spiral can easily force trouble. Studs go in not a whole lot over finger tight, something that goes against instinct!
Yeah, I know about going finger tight on stud installation, but are you only talkin about 20-30 ft/lbs for stud installation while the goop sets up, or for final torque? I was looking for final torque numbers. I know the clamping force of a stud vs. a bolt is significantly better, but I can't imagine only running 20-30 ft/lbs and them staying in place or keeping a seal. As far as this original post is concerned... couldn't they weld a bead on the inside and retap the holes? I imagine the problem with that would be getting the welder in there in the first place and then getting a good consistent enough bead to retap to cut quality threads. Not to mention the time required, huh? I'm not a welder, so I am just throwing this out there. Thanks again... and sorry for previously hijacking the post.
For stud setting and verticalizing only--***embly would be like 55 pounds. Rumbleseat's stuff, down at the bottom of this page, is a good free source of specs and general info--this guy has been immersed in flatheads for close to sixty years. Torqueage is in the first chapter click: http://www.flatheadv8.org/rumblest/intro.htm[/QUOTE] Look first at this page: http://www.flatheadv8.org/rumblest/specs.pdf Rumbleseat toured the country in his 286 flathead '34 roadster, and got a big writeup in Rodder's Journal on the way--he did eastern and western halves of the country separately, visiting with people from the various flathead web groups. Amazing guy who has done just about everything with flateads, and written down the basics for everyone!
Look first at this page: http://www.flatheadv8.org/rumblest/specs.pdf Rumbleseat toured the country in his 286 flathead '34 roadster, and got a big writeup in Rodder's Journal on the way--he did eastern and western halves of the country separately, visiting with people from the various flathead web groups. Amazing guy who has done just about everything with flateads, and written down the basics for everyone![/QUOTE] Cool. Thanks again Bruce. I like feeling confident that I am doing things right... the first time.
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