hey guys need help on welding cracks on 48 chevy fenders wher it roles under can post pics. tomorro F.O.G. 38 sled
hi there frankieC can you give more info as to what welding gear you have plz? Fatigue cracks should really be Oxy/acet welded to anneal the area concerned ,PB
Pictures would help. Generally when you have cracks from fatigue, it's better to cut and replace metal. Otherwise you will develop cracks again next to the weld. But like everything else, it depends where the cracks are.
If the fenders in question have a wire rolled into the edge you need to repair the wire first for a lasting repair.
Hey, I can't recall a post war vehicle that used a wired edge in the fender flange except a E-Type Jaguar bonnet. As fordcragar said- besure to cut out the metal surrounding the crack as there are several cracks in the metal you can't see, atleast until the vehicles' repainted and back on the road a few months! '' Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
I repaired a couple of cracks on my Chevy ad pu. Not hard to do. First drill a small hole at the ends of the crack to keep the crack from spreading further. Then I used a cutoff wheel and opened the crack a little making sure that the edges were beveled. Then I welded them with a wire feeder a little at a time to reduced warped. Then grind the weld and check for any gaps. If gaps are found weld that area a little more. Grind again and if everything looks ok then clean the area and put a little bondo or lead. I always put metal prep before I put primer.
thanks it's not a wire just rolled i have to cut it out and make a patch how do i make the roled part????? thanks frankie c 38sled
Hey frankie, dig around your shop or tool box for a piece of round stock or, perhaps a socket that matches the exact radius of the rounded flange. You may have to settle for something close, and fine-tune the shape with a hammer & dolly. Roll the flange on the end of your patch, and be sure to leave plenty of extra material to fully cover the area of the crack, plus a healthy margin, on each side of the crack. ''.........graffiti on the walls of history"
thank you p p i'l try it and post pics!!!! PS i do most of my body work freddy flintstone styl any way (hehehe)
Hey, Frankie...pimpin is right, but if the curve of the edge is pretty tight, and you can't just do a curve piece hammered over a piece of tubing, you can cut out a piece of 1/2 to 3/4" plywood to the correct curvature. Actually, cut 2 of them...one use a router, or just a disc sander to radius the sharp edges, clamp the metal between the 2, and hammer away. You can get the part just about perfect this way, if you cut the wood correctly!
hey chop ike the plywood idea love the copper kart will you at the shows hext year!!!! check out my profile i'm doing a 38 pu.
Hey Mark, A HammerForm is a great way to produce sheetmetal parts with complex shapes & forms, quickly & cheaply. Master metalshaper Ron Fournier has done some viedos & books on the subject. " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
A few years ago one of the metal benders showed a photo of his set of dollys like this I made this one out of a piece of s**** flat bar and a piece of ****er rod that is about 3/4 in diameter but a guy could make up any size he needed pretty easy. I've got one rear fender for my truck that has a stress crack that I need to repair by cutting out a section and making a patch. I'd round the corners on the spot I cut out to lessen the chances of it causing another crack. Rear fenders usually crack because someone left off the brace from the fender to the frame.
^^^^^ Field dump rake is an ag. implement, pulled behind a tractor. Anybody have a pic for the city boys?? Ingenious, rbradber!!
hey 36 thanks for learning me!! got a farmer down the road think i'l mosesdown and see if he has any broken ones
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