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Technical Help! Painting small items with sharp edges with todays paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by oldrelics, Apr 22, 2017.

  1. oldrelics
    Joined: Apr 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,727

    oldrelics
    Member
    from Calgary

    Painting small items with sharp edges with todays **** paint. After 2 coats (white single stage acrylic urethane) paint doesn't seem to cover the sharp edges. Seems to over good everywhere elso. Is this just a problem I have? Any tips?
     
  2. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,584

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    example of what your painting?
    did you prime it?
     
  3. oldrelics
    Joined: Apr 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,727

    oldrelics
    Member
    from Calgary

    Door hinges, and no I forgot to prime them, I did sand them though!
     
  4. K13
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,730

    K13
    Member

    I think you answered your own question.
     
    clem and cretin like this.
  5. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,584

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    primer should stay on the corners and with the proper shade should cover with a thin paint.
     
    wesdon likes this.
  6. tnrotter
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 294

    tnrotter
    Member
    from Tennessee

    Apply your first coat as a tack coat and allow it to dry 15 mins or so before additional coats.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  7. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,584

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    i suggest DP48lf epoxy primer/sealer. will solve the problem.
     
  8. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 9,203

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Break the sharp corners with a file?
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  9. oldrelics
    Joined: Apr 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,727

    oldrelics
    Member
    from Calgary

  10. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,299

    metalman
    Member

    Like said above, DP primer works well. We spray a coat on all smalls parts with DP40Lf before we paint whether they have paint or bare metal. I don't like to sand small parts so most get a trip thru the gl*** bead cabinet, hung up and sprayed with the DP then paint an hour or so later. No sanding so it's easy, well as easy as painting all those damn small parts can be.
    I know DP48 was suggested, we just use DP40 (the green) on everything but we're a shop, we paint a lot of different colors. If you are buying it to do one job buying a close base like 48 (white) for white parts will cover easier.
     
  11. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,445

    Torana68
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Australia

    by the look of that , get rid of sharp edges (dremel if you have it) sand , prime, prime, sand .... paint
     
  12. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,357

    Hnstray
    Member
    from Quincy, IL

    'Surface tension' is likely at work there. Surface Tension is why water makes a bubble or droplet shape instead of 'sheeting' on a flat surface. On edges of parts the liquid paint tends to 'gather' away from the edge. That phenomenon is why production painting began using electrophoretic painting processes whereby the paint adheres in equal thickness on edges the same as flat surfaces.

    'Breaking' the edges, as well as use of primer, as recommended in above posts, is probably your best approach.

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2017
    clem and loudbang like this.
  13. HotrodHR
    Joined: Jul 12, 2010
    Posts: 211

    HotrodHR
    Member

    ^^^^^^ Agree with Hnstray ^^^^^^
     

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