Help!!!Seized brake lines

I know most of you guys won't be too happy with me, but I am working on converting my '62 short bed ford into a 4x4. But that is besides the point, the lines on the truck are seized. I just need some good advice on what to do when your brake lines seize, and you don't want to replace them all.

 

Assuming that no technique or penetrating oil works...

A) You keep going at connection after connection until you find one on each end that DOES disconnect cleanly.

B) If you are careful...and know how to use a double flaring setup...you find a spot that isn't corroded...cut it...and install a new fitting with a new double flare. You then install a new line connected to your fitting, as necessary. This rarely works because as a rule if the line is rotted in one spot, the rest isn't particularly good on either the inside, outside, or both.

There are no simple and easy answers to the question, unfortunately...and brakes are NOT where you want to save money or do half-ass "fixes" like hose clamps which won't hold that sort of pressure reliably anyway.

 

Thanks for the info. The lines arn't rotted out, they just won't budge. I have soaked them in penetrating oil and nothing. I live out here on the Washington coast so the salt air does not help me out any. I never though about adding in a connection point. I will have to borrow my father-in-laws flaring tool. Thanks for the help again.

 

Take your brake cylinders apart (remove the rubber cups and rubber seals) then put some heat on the fitting. And use a line wrench, not just a two-sided spanner. If penetrating oil and heat don't do the trick, then chances are the lines should be replaced anyway.

 

after you get them hot stick a candle to the threads that are exsposed or where the nut threads in and the wax will wick into the threads and the nut will loosen up every time... works on frozen pipe fittings on intake manifolds also.

 

Ya, I've been wanting a line wrench since I started working on the brakes. I live in the center of nowhere, our podunk hardware store does not have any line wrenches available. I knew when I used the regular open end wrench that I was going to strip the head off the nut I was working on, but I did it anyhow. I though about using some map gas to heat the fittings up, but need to go to town for that too. Thanks for the help.

 

Cut the lines off near the wheel cylinder or fitting and use a 6 point socket.

 

Did anybody mention a "line wrench", some call them "flare wrenches"? Those 6 point wrenches that have a cut out to fit over the line. They are thicker than standard wrenches. Very less likely to slip and round off the fitting. In over fifty years of really old car restoration there have been almost none that could not be turned. The trick is to use the right size only. If necessary tap lightly to get it to fit over the fitting. Do not turn more than a few degress at a time. Use some lubricating fluid. ATF and acetone, 50-50, works great. Back and forth, slowly. This works for me.
I'm sure others will continue to add other ways to get it done.

 

Thanks for all the ideas, should be a easy after I get they proper tools.

 

If you've already rounded off the corners and the line wrench won't work, there's a great set of vice grips made that have special jaws with a V notch on top, and one flat on the bottom, that are GREAT for removing rounded off brake lines. I know, when my kids started working on cars, I came to the rescue many times with them.
Kinda like this, but I built up the bottom jaw with weld to better grip smaller nuts.
http://www.toolbarn.com/irwinvisegrip-02sg.html

 

I will have to get a set of those vise grips. Since I have already rounded off one of them.

 

Won't 4x4 require a total reconfiguration of the line layout anyway?
I'd cut them with a set of snips and use a socket to remove the fittings and then totally redo the lines once the new front axle and the new, longer flex lines are in place front and rear.
Before I replaced the lines I'd have any bleeders freed up too, because you may end up replacing your wheel cylinders as well if you snap them off.

 

If the fittings are fucked you need to replace wheel cylinders as well, cut the lines and remove the WC's

 

You may as well cut the line since you have to replace the nut anyway. simply cut the line remove the retaining bolts and then place the rounded of nut in a vice and undo it. Some heat might be need if rusted together.

 

Simple solution and one that I have used for years. Lines can look great and be mushy inside. Many times seized brakes are the lines that allow fluid to flow when the brakes are pushed but won't let the fluid return when they are released.

 

Luckily the configuration of the lines is the same whether it is 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive. The wheel cyclindars seem to be in good shape. So will not replace them unless I have too. The brake shoes are also good. All this salt air down here dose a number on anything that lives out side. And unfortunately I don't have a big enough garage to keep all my rigs inside. I know the lines on the truck are in good shape, since before I decided to convert the truck over to a 4x4 it was my daily driver. So simply the fittings are just seized, not the brakes themselves. Thanks for all the help from everyone.

 

I got the brakes all figured out on my truck, so thank you to everyone that gave me some pointers.

 

Cool! Glad to hear it all worked out for ya.
Post some pics of the truck if you have any. Bet its a nice rig with a 4x4 setup under it.
(I live in the snow belt so I know cool comes in all seasons and styles!)

 

Why you playing with Brake lines? Replace them, there cheep, they make you brakes work when you need them. We dont want to read about you not being able to stop and now the insurance is giving you a hastle. Your dealing with BRAKES. This is you chance to do it right the first time and save your life. Iceman

 

Brake line--line wrench, Gas line---line wrench Waterpipe--pipe wrench Brake bleeder---brake bleeder wrench,do it right the first time and no more headaches.