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Help Smoothing Engine Block?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brow318, Apr 18, 2011.

  1. brow318
    Joined: Oct 27, 2010
    Posts: 27

    brow318
    Member
    from Texas

    Has anyone smoothed an aluminum engine block? I have used 80 grit to start with and have gone back over the block with 120 grit.

    I am considering using glass beads and bead blasting the block as a final finish. Any thoughts of if this would be a good or bad idea?

    The block will be painted after machine work is finished. Any recommendations on primer and paint so that I get a good finish that can stand up to the heat?

    The block is an LS1 aluminum 5.7L block.

    Thanks...Kevin
     
  2. KK Hickey Designs
    Joined: Sep 10, 2008
    Posts: 277

    KK Hickey Designs
    Member

  3. brow318
    Joined: Oct 27, 2010
    Posts: 27

    brow318
    Member
    from Texas

    Thanks. Actually did a search and got some results but the threads you included were not in the results. Already looks better than the first set of threads I went through.

    K
     
  4. Stu D Baker
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,814

    Stu D Baker
    Member
    from Illinois

    Unless the engine will be exposed, pretty much a waste of time. I had a 215 olds polished in my 37 Ford and you couldn't tell it was polished, even with the hood open. Stu
     
  5. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,316

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    I knew a guy who glass beaded his engine before rebuilding it, to clean it.
    It ran all of about 3 minutes before it siezed up.
    I wouldn't take the chance you'd get beads anywhere you don't want them!
     
  6. kkustomz
    Joined: Jul 4, 2007
    Posts: 342

    kkustomz
    Member
    from Texas

    I built a 4 cylinder engine that the guy polished, again when the engine was assembled and in the vehicle you would have never noticed if it was polished or grey
     
  7. I have seen some smother engines in open cars and they were OK to look at. I am assuming that what you are smoothing is the big lumps etc???

    bead blasting is not a good idea. I have done it to motor cycle cases and you spend hours upon hours making sure that there is not junk in any of the passages.

    Just smooth it with finer and finer grit until you are happy with the look. Then wash the hell out of it. If it is greasy you should have actually adressed that issue before getting the grinder involved.

    Do a search on painting aluminum what you want is a primer with zinc chromate in it to start with. Then if you want durable paint that will retain its gloss you want to use a 2 part epoxy. Make damned sure that you mask everything where you do not want paint because it is a bitch to et off out out of holes and crevices. Lifter bores and cylinders are a major problem as well as threaded holes. You will need to chase the threads in every hole after painting anyway but that stuff will destroy your taps so keep as much of it out if the holes as possible.

    Another option is powder coating your block when you are done. but it is very pricey and unless you get it to a good coater you are going to ned up with your block all screwed up.
     

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