I blame it on the (*^*(& snipe engines. You go to bed fine and wake up owner of a '39 3/4 ton. Does anyone close to me have some 17" tires that would be good enough for "rollers". Bald is OK. I won't get this off the trailer until I get some tires that can hold air. The solid rings, I ***ume you have to be able to drive down then work them over the edge to come off. We're "ranch" in Nevada and not afraid to do things ourselves but technical help appreciated. Yes, I'll wrap it up in continuous chain before I put the air to it, if and when I get that far. Anything written on these? Pages V8 manual cover them? Anything on line? Anyone got some tires for me? Plates on this are Wyo. 1958. Engine turns over and oil looks like it was changed 2500 miles ago. Trans 'sounds' dry as a bone. Much to do. Want to make a preserved 'driver'. Keep the patina. It came with better fenders though. I'm in central Nevada. Tires within 250 miles? Thanks all.
I don't got some and I am not close but there will be a farm coop close and that is a good place to look for tires.
Might be easier to find some later model 15 or 16 inch conventional tires and wheels. 75 tear old split rim wheels are probably a bomb waiting to go off.. Had some on a livestock trailer in the 1970's, finally replaced them with conventional wheels before disaster struck.
I have no idea, try doing a web search with that pattern. The off road websites might know; I wonder if the military style Dodge WM300 had that pattern, if so, they must have a solution. Those unsplit rings can be tough to get apart if you never did one. You need to break the tire bead away from the ring at least an inch or two. Then tap the ring to break the rust loose. The ring should then drop down to see where the rectangular notch is cut on the ring. There is a special lock ring prybar that hooks into the notch, and it pulls the ring towards the bar while also prying it up. You need to keep tapping the opposite side of the ring towards the bar side, to get the ring to lift up and over. If you force the bar without getting the ring over to the bar side, you can warp the ring. There are two spots on the ring 180 apart, that are ground out, to allow the ring to p*** by the wheel locking lip. You will see these when the ring drops down after breaking the bead. After the tire is removed, you need to look at the male part of the "locking system" on the ring, and also the female groove in the wheel, to see if the rust has made the ring fit too loose. If it looks sketchy, junk the wheel. Even if you can get a bad wheel to hold together with 20 PSI, it can blow apart at any time without warning. .
i have 4 16" wheels with this bolt pattern will post photo later i think i took them off a 46 ford railway express van
The Jalopy Journal
