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Technical Help with F-100 Hubs to '40 spindles

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by DannyBoy, Apr 23, 2013.

  1. DannyBoy
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 7

    DannyBoy
    Member
    from Arizona

    I bought a "kit" from SpeedyBill to use to convert my '55 ford F100 brakes to '40 Ford spindles that I want to use on my '29 Model A.

    After following the****embly instructions I put one of the hubs with new packed rear bearing and rear seal on the spindle, added the packed bearing, washer and nut to the front, tightened it to 50 lbs of torque as instructed, backed off to one hole for the cotter key. I tried to turn the hub, way too tight. I kept backing off the nut till it was completely loose, and the hub was stuck on the spindle. I pulled it off only to find the rear bearing and grease seal stayed on the spindle. I could see that the grease seal was too small for the back of the spindle and had ridden up on the back of the spindle. Anyway, hard to explain, but I know it's not right and wouldn't last half a mile on the road without burning up.

    Anybody have any ideas what might be wrong here? I know I've never encountered a grease seal doing that. I would appreciate anyone's helpful knowledge to get me past this problem.
    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    I have never used Speedway's kit for that deal, usually opting to go to the bearing warehouse and source my own stuff, but usually you have take a rotary file and and create a radius on the back edge of the bearings I.D. The spindle has a nice filleted radius as it came from Henry's factory, whereas the replacement bearing does not. The cure is to wrap the bearing in duct tape, get out the rotary file and make the radius to match the spindle. It's gonna be a bit tough to get off now but just go after it gently with some prying tools and worse comes to worse a tape padded, dull chisle.
     
  3. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

    Read this ... it describes clearancing the bearing.

    http://www.flatheadv8.org/f1brakes1.htm

    I have done this swap many times ... and every now and then you do not have to clearance the bearing BUT most times you do.

    Once done ... you will LOVE the improved braking.

    Randy
     
  4. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    What he said. I am running 54 F-100 hubs and brakes on 41 spindles, you have to radius the inner bearing to fit the spindle.

    edit:
    see here
    http://www.flatheadv8.org/f1brakes1.htm
     
  5. DD COOPMAN
    Joined: Jul 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,122

    DD COOPMAN
    Member

     
  6. DannyBoy
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 7

    DannyBoy
    Member
    from Arizona

    Thanks everyone! I'm going to give it another try! Fussing and cussing, that's where the fun is!
     
  7. 50 inch lbs would be closer to the right torque...
     
  8. stillrunners
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 10,579

    stillrunners
    Member
    from dallas

    thats for the link and direction....
     
  9. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

  10. Hmmmm, seems the instructions cover all of the salient points of installation including torque in inch/lbs.
     
  11. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,387

    Andy
    Member

    I would not torque them at all. I use just finger tight and then back them off.
     
  12. Old thread but I gotta big kick out of this, especially after I read the speedway link to the instructions. Hope he got it figured out.

    After following the****embly instructions I put one of the hubs with new packed rear bearing and rear seal on the spindle, added the packed bearing, washer and nut to the front, tightened it to 50 lbs of torque as instructed, backed off to one hole for the cotter key. I tried to turn the hub, way too tight. I kept backing off the nut till it was completely loose,

     

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