Technical Help with Gasser Front End

All,

I have been working on my first Gasser build and have a few questions. First off, the 1952 Ford weighed 3,070 pounds. I was planning on using a vega steering box but just recently found out that the steering box should not be used on anything over 2,800 pounds. The car had a straight six in it and I installed a 454 big block. I removed the inner fender wells, front bumper,.....stc. Not sure if the vega will work. Suggestions would be appreciated.



Next issue, the front shackle. Obviously it folded over. I was told to move the shackle forward instead of making longer shackles. I completely believe the guy who told me this as he has a lot of experience in building gassers. Reasoning was deflection while steering. Thoughts?



This picture is of the tie rod on the passenger side. I am using a Speedway tube axle with their kit. Is this set up correctly?



Same questions as above, is this set up correctly? I do not like the fact the threads of the bolt do not come all the way through the steering arm.

Any thoughts here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

have you talked to Speedway about these questions?

 

Not yet. On the agenda for tomorrow when I get a chance..

 

You can use a Saginaw 525 box, bolts to the same mount as the Vega box. It’s a much heavier box. I’d prefer regular tie rod ends over heim joints.

 

Eliminate as many of those big spacer bushings as possible. What is that long spacer for? Try to get the Heim end as close to the steering arms as possible. A Saginaw (525???) box like on AMC cars or Chevelles is an option.

You didn't ask this, but
a) limit your front caster to seven degrees.
b) use a steering damper like a Fiero or VW.

 

I've been running a Ford Econoline front axel for over 50 years. I agree with what 31Apickup said about using tie rod ends. They are not as pretty, but they are very dependable.

 

What you have is a real mess. Step back and re-think what you have going on.

 

You better start over , from what I see in the pictures

 

Hard not to see things I don't like.
but you want the shackle pointing forward at a 30 to 45 degree angle with weight on the springs at ride height.
You want the main leaf spring to be able to flatten out and not bind or max out the shackle.

 

I used a speedway kit, I read the instructions about how to set up the springs....this is what I ended up with. Notice that about half the leafs are gone from the spring, so it actually acts like a spring, instead of a solid piece of steel. When the spring is compressed almost flat, the shackle is at an angle. When the car lifts up (either by jacking the frame...or doing a wheelie at the strip...) the spring gets it's curve back, and the shackle slants a little bit the other way.



I have the heim rod ends on 3/4 of my steering. They work.I have a tie rod end where the drag link connects to the pitman arm. You do need bolts long enough to get full thread engagement.

 

Here's mine, your shackle definitely needs cut off and redone, I set mine up using the main leaf only and a block of wood to simulate the thickness of the missing spring back. As you can see it turned out right with the weight of the big block tunnel ram combo, also I had the spacer tig welded to prevent any wiggle.
Give me a few minutes and I'll run out to the garage and take some detailed photos.

 

Driver's steering arm



Pitman arm



Passenger steering arm



Whole enchilada

 

You will need to carefully cut those front spring hangers off of the frame and move them forward about 1.5-2". Use a 525 steering box as others have said.
Once you get everything fixed and back together, use the spacers as needed to get the tie rod and drag link to clear everything and to be as parallel to the axle as possible. Weld them to the steering arms once you have everything working right.
The Heim style rod ends are ok but use these seals to help keep dirt and debris out of them and check them often for lube and play. Factory style tie rod ends are better, but your steering arms don't appear to be tapered for them.

Seals-It WS5001 Heim Joint Rod End Seals, 1/2 Inch Hole, Set/6 (speedwaymotors.com)

 

hey, I should get some of those seals, and put some oil on my rod ends, eh? They've just been riding out in the breeze all this time, dry. But they're still pretty tight after 30k miles.

 

I've never worried about mine and they have around 30,000 miles also.

 

The Seals-it seals are really nice and just add a little protection. If your rod ends are in a double shear mount, they probably won't fit since the washer part of them is .048"-.050" thick, each.

 

we put V8s in Vegas and didn't change the box.

Or get a mustang box and don't worry about it.

 

Thanks for the advice folks. I am looking at couple of things and plan on making some modifications. Thanks to those who provided helpful advice and constructive criticism. First gasser build, I don't have all the answers. Thanks again.

 

As frenchtown mentioned, I did set the caster at 7 degrees. At least it seems I got something right. Working on the rest. Thanks

 

Quality of new seals are suck, fall apart in short time. Have some that are over 20 years old and are still fine.

 

So @sedantudor what happened with your front end ???

 

I got the axle straightened out. Was not happy with the height so I made shackles a bit longer to raise it up a hair. Right now I am working on the ladder bars in the rear. I am still waiting for my drag link to show, got the the steering box installed, and steering column. Hopefully soon I will be done with all of the mock up and ready to pull things apart and start my final welding, put the engine together, and then the trans. Thanks for asking. Will post more pics when I have a few moments.

 

gotta post some pictures of mine and get some opinions i didnt set it up previous owner did .YIKES !! im just that way with anything i didnt set up it drives fine !

 

Better to have put blocks between spring & axle than to have lengthened shackles IMO .

 

Indeed!
Lengthened shackles change the caster, and also can be pretty spooky when making sharps turns at almost any driving speed when they deflect sideways, and cause steering issues. Blocks of 4" or less have been used for many decades without any issues.