Jesus! All the above mentioned stuff AND a roller cam and open headers? Somethings really wrong here. PS-no such animal as 7.2 rockers
If you put JUST more gear in it, I think you may just find yourself pulling 2nd at the tree, and going through the traps in 4th gear...with the same e.t.
After reading all of this. I think your time is very respectable for what you got. 302, "about" 275hp, sounds like stock rear suspension since there is no mention of traction mods. And unless you can get it hooked up @ the line with some higher RPM, that low torque 302 leaving @ idle I think is doing all it can to make you happy. Get some traction, launch @ 4 grand, you might get your 13's.
My buddies got a 71 Comet Gt with a 66 Hertz/Shelby drivetrain in it. The little 289 has a solid cam Mondello heads and 5.13's in the rear with a 3,000 convertor. He's turning about the same rpm's while shifting, a little over 6 grand, he gets 1.90 60' times with 1/8 mi. times in the 8.40's. This little car sounds awesome like it would run like a ****d ape but it just doesn't. He swapped his 625 cfm for a 715 cfm body and used the same bowls and plates off the 625. His next run was a 9.74 rejetted the carb a couple times and got back to a 8.99 then went to a 9.11. I told him that's all the little motor can do but he swears it should run in the high 7's. Here's a link to figuring out all kinds of ratios, play with the numbers and see what gives http://users.erols.com/srweiss/#jcalc
With your combo, I have you crossing the line at 4231 rpm @ 94 mph exactly. 100 mph. with the 3.55's, you'll cross at 6121 in 3rd. That should be enough to get you in the real high 13's, if you are getting off the line at all. If you can hit 100, I'd think 60 ft. times would be the next step to get into the 13's. Don't go changing too much until you get enough laps under your belt to start to understand how your combo is working. I bet learning the right tire pressure and timing the car likes is worth a tenth or two from where you are right now.
Based on this calculation my tach is definatly off , cause you hit my 94 mph right on the money (93.8) .When my tach is suppose to be reading 4231 its showing me about 4500 -4600 .Guess i will put a gay Autometer in it for now...
I think the banging out i was hearing was the burnt points.It runs a lot better with the new ones (imagine that).Speaking of traction ,why wont this thing bite better off the line?Is it cause of the light weight or the 2:78 first or both.I have a freaking mini spool and radials that are 10 inches wide at the contact patch with 10 pounds of air in them.Could my pinion angle be part of this problem ? With the shackles i know it a little higher than it should be.I have seen one wheel wonders bite better...
yep. You can't lower tire psi in a radial, and make it act like a slick, it won't. Perhaps a set of shorter drag radials for the rear, to help traction, act like more gear, and not make you wander all over the place, like a set of real slicks will, if you ( presumably) have radials up front?
S****e gave me another fresh rebuilt 600 today and man does it run better than it ever has.Must be jetted better for my wimp 302 or something.I feel 13's at the DOTD in my bones...
3000 lb 65 Comet 302 5 sp (race with first 4) 4.57 locker 10" Hoosier QT Pro. I launched at 3,000 RPM shifted at 5,600 crossed the 1/4 at 6,000 in 4th 12.49 best time. I still think your shifting to high, shifting at 6,000 I couldn't get out of the high 13's.
Ranchero's are fairly light and shouldn't need a lot of gear. Have you tried not shifting into 4th? 1.36 X 3.55 = 4.83. That's 5800rpm area at your current trap speed.
No,Dirty 2 and a few others recomended that to me at Mokan ,but i didnt cause the tach was ********ting me in to thinking i was at 6300.I will at the day of the drags next month.The time i save by not grabbing another gear alone should be worth something like a tenth or more.Not to mention that the car just freewheels (seemslike) when i get in to 4th for a while till the rpm's go back up.Thats why i was expecting to run 13's at mokan was cause i based my gear ratio by an old chart by my rpm at 60 x tire height =gear ratio.I thought i had 4:10 ,but i didnt find out till a few days before when we put in the spool that it was 3:55 (we counted the teeth on the gears).I also put on a set of 10x15 crager s/s wheels on the back yesterday with my same tires and it seems to bite better.I guess its because they are a lot heavier than the slots and harder to spin.I am curious to see how this affects my traction on a drag strip.
He meant to say 1.72's. Oh God, where do I start ?! Troy and I both were trying to tell you to do some work to the engine before you tried putting steep gears in it, but like you said above, you are too damn hard headed !!!! You could start with heads. That alone would put you in the 13's. Then again, you'd actually have to spend some money on those, so nevermind. By the way, a brief overview of his combo reads as: stock late model Mustang ('87-ish) 302, stock rods/4 valve relief pistons stock heads with 1.72 roller rockers stock roller cam aluminum single plane "high rise" intake manifold w/600 Holley 1850 series ancient Tri-Y headers, no other exhaust Top Loader 8 inch w/3.55's and mini spool Did I miss anything ? That engine just doesn't make enough power, and doesn't have the heads/cam to keep making power and pull all the way up to 6K+. I'd be willing to bet if you shifted at a lower RPM you would go faster. The street tires are a big part of your traction poblem. Why did you drive it around town for MONTHS with slicks on it, but two days before we go to Mokan you put radials on it ?!? And you wouldn't listen to me about not letting all the air pressure out of the radials, but a few people validated the info by stating the same exact thing I TRIED to tell you. You said in an earlier post that you took it to 6700 "speed shifting" when you blew up the heater core, so why were you worried about "only" spinning it to 6300 at Mokan ??? I'm thinking it was probably because you didn't want to blow your **** up at the track with everyone watching and get embarr***ed. But ****, what do I know, I'm just a "bench racing, Monday morning quarterback". Hahahaha !!! You know, Daniel, it's all in good fun, and you know I'm going to give you hell about this ****, because you give me so much ammo and make it so easy !! By the way, just so everyone knows, I am the guy that pulled his car all the way to Mokan and back on the trailer, and I see him all the time around town, so I can give him a hard time and it's no big deal. -Aaron
I guess you want to bust balls again John Force Junior,okay lets go.Thanks for the information about my car ,dont know what i would do without you.I thought it was my windshield wiper blades that were slowing me down all this time.The reason i put the radials on 2 days before we went is because i figured you would flake out ,and i would have to drive the Falcon to Missouri.Besides I got tired of fishtailing all over the place trying to drive to work in the rain at 5:30 in the morning on slicks.Some of us drive are **** everyday not just on Saturdays when it pretty out side pretending to live the lifestyle,to those who dont know better.I got a better carb from S****e and i have been playing with the jets ,and it seems to have better throttle response .The new 8.8 wires and points helped to ,plus i got a hotter coil on it now.Can you please come over and help me change my oil when you get a chance,since i dont know anything about cars Late Model Mustang boy. I dont have the luxury that some people do of just standing back and throwing $100 dollar bills at my **** till its like i want it to be. Oh i almost forgot,Wanna run me in your 65 Buick with a 401 to my wimpy 302 ***le for ***le ?Thats what i thought...
Here is a link to lots of different speed calculators.My Camaro goes through at 6200 rpm at 12.50 109 mph with a 27.5 tire.The trans is ford toploader 2.78 first same as yours with a 9 inch ford 4.57 rear gear. Darrell http://www.********50.com/members/calculators.htm
No offense,but you proly got more in your motor than mine ,plus 4:57 to 3:55.If i had those gears i wouldnt have to shift high to make it pull in the next gear.Also you got way more traction than me with those cheaters on the rearend.Why is it everyone was telling me my gears were fine for me ,but they are all running gears like 4:56 or lower in their own cars?Why is it the first thing everyone thinks when a car doesnt run as fast as they think it should ,they wanna blame the motor? You can have 5000 horse power and if you cant get it to the track and gear it right you aint gunna do ****.When i go to the DOTD i will bring slicks,but i am gunna make a run with the same street tires i had at Mokan,and i am gunna run it up to about 3000 and just drop the ****ing clutch off the line without pedaling the throttle ,and smoke the dog**** out of them ,so everyone can see how bad my traction really was and how much i had to feather it off the line at the Hamb drags.I know you are trying to be helpfull Judd but i heard comments from others like "get more motor " and "your motor doesnt have enough power "...
I just took the 3.70 gear out last week it makes a big difference 13.00 and it dosn't hook as hard with the 3.70. Motor is 355 10.5 to 1 with a 288dur. 488lift hyd. cam.Darrell
I have 4:10's, and in 4th (1:1) I go across the line at about 6k at around 110mph. I think my tires are 26ish tall.. Perfect gears I think, I can still hit the highway and go to cruises and whatnot not. I think the 4:56's wont be worth the 10th's of a second your after..
I wont need but a tenth or two probably.I figure with the cooler late Oct. weather plus slicks,plus something more than the 91 octane gas i was using,plus the ign. and carb tuning/upgrading i've done,it will be close to the 13:99 mark anyway,without the lower gears.If i can stomp it off the line and stay in it through first,i will proly gain 4 tenths in the first 60 foot from the slicks...
what kind of radials? hoosier,bfg,m/t, do not reccomend radials with a stick box,since they dont recover like a bias ply.
To simplify your question about everyone telling you your gears are fine for you: It doesn't help to spin a motor to 7grand, when it can't breathe beyond 5000. low gears at the track help the car with keeping it in the operating rpm range for the cam, applying a work advantage off the line, to get the car moving ( and you say you have traction problems now! although, I think thats nothing a set of 10 inch slicks won't cure, Drag radials...after all they are going in the 7's on them, now and standing them on the bumper) for your combo...most of us think you would gain little...
If you have stock heads and the stock cam you should gear for a max rpm at the 1/4 mile mark of 5000-5500. The heads just wont support much more. On the plus side your engine with AFR 165 heads and a Stealth Duala plane intake can give you near 400 crank hp and a 6000 rpm power peak. Lastly I believe your intake and your cam/heads are mismatched. That single plane is hurting you. You are giving up bottom end to gain top end, but your cam and heads won't support the top end capability the intake offers. I'd suggest you consider a quality dual plane or at least ported factory heads. There is a guy in Florida that has many Mustang guys in his corner. He ports the OEM E7TE factory heads and gets some real nice numbers out the heads with little valves (hello port velocity) and serious results at the track. Check him out at www.thumperoforangepark.com
Thanks for the positive feed back man.Will those heads work with my stock piston valve reliefs?Also dosent a lower gear ratio multiply the engines torque ,there for making it easier for the engine to pull the car down the track?
Excuses, excuses, excuses. Changing the radials, excuse--you could have put radials on it after we got back from the drags. Points and wires, excuse--I called 4 different O'Reilly's in Joplin for you to find the set of points you needed (they only had one set, but then again, one set of points was burnt, and the other set wasn't), but you didn't change them out until after we got home. Yeah man, MAD PROPS to you for driving a 14 second car to work every day. Damn, I'm proud of you. I guess you're the first person ever to drive a 14 second "g***er" to work every day. Oh yeah, your work is what, 5 miles from home ? Damn, how do you manage ?! Late model Mustang boy, huh ? I had two Mustangs, one was nearly completely stock that ran faster times than your "g***er", and the other one we won't even go into how bad it would've outrun you. But hey, it was a Mustang, there was nothing at all cool about it, right ? I'm sure no one on here EVER had ANYTHING that was late model before they got into old cars. "Don't have the luxury that some people do of just standing back and throwing $100 dollar bills at my **** till its like i want it to be."--another excuse. That's a line of **** right there......you're just too damn cheap to spend any money to do something the right way. You've got the money to spend on it, you and I both know that. Run you in my luxury car Buick Riviera ? Right, keep bringing that up to take attention away from the fact that your car is slow for what it is. My car wouldn't stand a chance racing your car, but then again, that's not what it was built for. Your car is purpose built, but it doesn't even fulfill the purpose. -Aaron
They should. I have a 1990 Mustang GT with a B303 with 1.72 roller rockers (.516" total lift) on a stock shortblock. No issues. Those heads use the stock size valves. Most of the time interference is one or both of two things. Too much lift and/or a valve so much bigger than OEM that the releif's aren't wide enough to accomidate. With bone stock heads my car pulls to 5800. So better heads would make it all the better. You shoudl be okey. I'd still check just to be sure before firing up and running if you go that route.
Hard Luck ,or should i say Good Luck ,you dont know when to quit ,or i guess you do since in the 8 years that you and i have been buddies ,i have seen you purchase (with your dads money most of the time,you cheap mother****er) a 54 Chevy,a 60 Lark,a 49 Ford, and now a 55 Chevy and something else i am probably forgetting .Every one of these cars were either running or didnt need much to get them that way and for some reason unknown to me ,you took them all apart and just let them set for ****ing months without touching them ,until you either finally figured you bit off more than you could chew or it turned out to be work and you blew it off and your old man and sometimes me would box up the ****tered parts and pieces and haul it to his pasture.Now call me a ********ter... You say i dont listen to you ,why should i ?I have yet to see you finish a car without your dad holding your hand or doing the work for you.If you would spend a little more time with your *** under the hood of a car playing the part,and less time slicking your hair back and trying to make yourself out to be a mechanic (which your not) at my expense and acting the part.I might put more weight on your opinion . If you cant take it ,dont dish it out.You started this ,now lets end it.I hate to be like this ,but i have wiped **** off my face for the last time on the cheap thing.Its true i make decent money but i have a family and lots of bills with two teenage kids,so i have to be very carefull on what i spend unneccasarily on myself .When your daughter gets older and you are on your own ,you will understand what the **** im talking about...
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