A few months ago we put a Master Power Brakes PB kit (Corvette style) in my '58 Chevy. Since then I have had nothing but trouble with it. I've talked to them a number of times but they haven't been much help, so I'm turning to the HAMB. Here's what's going on: -when the car heats up, the brakes lock up; I can then take the rod loose to release the pressure, but then the brakes are soft -I have to adjust the rod from the pedal to the booster way out so I have decent pedal (which is probably putting load on the master, not helping things...) -If I adjust the rod to "neutral", that is, the pin slips in and out of the hole in the pedal, I have very little brakes. -I pulled the master off the booster today, and the rod from the booster moves out how it is supposed to when the pedal is depressed. So we know that when it heats up, somehow the pressure is not being relieved. I still have to check to see if I fixed that problem with what I did today, but why don't I have any brakes? I re-bled the brakes today and the fluid level is OK. So what do you guys think? If all else fails, the single master is going back in... Thanks, Duck
Hatch, It's a whole new "bolt on" kit. GM "Corvette" style, dual master with drums all the way around. No proportioning valve. Any help or thought would be great. Duck
Try PMing Curious Rash, he put a disk conversion on his wifes 59 Chev and went through some of the same problems. TZ
Hey Duck, we had the same problem with the 61 wagon. I think that the rod is not adjusted properly. Whats happening is that the master cylinder is holding a slight amount of pressure. As the brakes get hotter, it starts to boil the brake fluid and adds even more pressure. So check that rod. Other possibilty is a bad master cylinder.
<font color="green"> HHHHHMMMMM... The wife's car is a 59, and had some troubles but mostly just the kit being incomplete. A few things to consider... Does the 58 have the bracket on the booster that spaces it away from the firewall? Does the long bar that your brake pedal is attached to have two holes in it one higher up than the other where the rod attaches? The reason I ask is that on Mama's car I had a hell of a time adjusting that damn bracket to where the rod wasn't rubbing on the beginning or end of the stroke. The 59 has two holes, I am told that one is for power brakes and the other for manual. I had to drill out the one that was more inline with the rod so that I could use it. Most likely you are experiencing a two part problem. Shaft may be too long AND maybe your brakes are sluggish on the return. Have you rebuilt/replaced wheel cylinders? Are your brake lines real close to some ehaust component? </font>
Mikey: I've been adjusting the piss outa that rod. But when I get it so that there is no extra pressure, then my brakes are really soft. Rashy: I have the two holes in the pedal, one that I drilled and the original. Right now it is in the one for power brakes, but I'm still not getting much. The brakes were all rebuilt about a year and a half ago, so they should be fine. The brake lines do run by the driver's side header, but so did the old ones and I didn't have any trouble with them. Maybe I should put some insulation around them?? Thanks, Duck
<font color="green"> Have you checked the lengt of the rod between the booster and master? Maybe it is too long or too short? How did you go about bleeding them? when was the last time you adjusted the brakes? </font>
I checked the rod between the booster and master today. It is short enough now that it should not be preloading the master at all. I bled them just by having someone press on the pedal and me loosening the nut (sucks too when you have to do it in a parking lot). I adjusted the brakes about 2 weeks ago. Thanks, Duck
<font color="green"> Just thinking out loud, bare with me. Thinking that air in the lines is going to be more affected by temperature than brake fluid AND will cause a soft pedal. Drive it some with the new adjustments and let us know what you have. Also, may not hurt to check wheel cylinders for leakage. </font>
heres my freddy flinstone suggestion: first, cut a whole approximately the size of a basketball directly in front of the drivers seat. second: buy a pair of shoes with the biggest soles you can find. you now have a complete setup that will easily stop your car from the highest speeds it is capable of reaching. dp
Thanks for the help Rashy... Hey Dunkie...you don't know me or my ride, so until you can share something worth-while instead of your lame-ass sarcasm, you can go************* your grandmother... Stay rockeriffic, Duck
When I converted my 60 Buick to power brakes, I had the same issue. Adjusted, adjusted some more. Turns out my booster was bad. Was brand new. DonkeyPoker, another message board I visit has a name for your type (one who patrols message boards just to stir***** up.) You are the HAMB's newest Troll. Congratulations! Now go away.
this is kind of an out there idea,but have you checked to see if the firewall is flexing where you mounted the new booster m/c?
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