HELP with thin, cracked body panels !

My old 'A' body is very thin in areas, so much that there is no way to weld it up, the heat from the MIG just keeps blowing holes through. I have cut out and welded in more and more patches, and it just does'nt seem to stop. I'm not sure there is enough Bondo out there to ever get this thing straight.

I have some areas that have pin holes and just plain old crackes in the sheet metal.
Is there a product that can be applied from the back side that will adhere and make the repair?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions....

 

RIGHT WAY: To do it the right way you'll have to cut as much of the old, thin metal out as possible and buy or form new panels. I'd suggest trying to overlap the pieces when you weld instead of trying to do a **** weld, this will help tons on thin old steel. Also, you may want to try a welding technique where you have more control over the heat like gas welding or tig.

NOT SO RIGHT WAY: if you want to "git her done" you can always back up the thin metal with por15 and fiberglas mat.. i've seen this done and it seems to hold out ok. I frankly think that is a ****ty solution though..

You are better off doing it right by replacing as much of the steel as possible.

 

there is supposed to be some sort of epoxy out there that they use to stick 2 pieces together, a friend of mine used the stuff to replace his cab corners on a newer truck, I have no idea what its called though, check with a auto body shop or someplace that supplies them

 

I do not disagree with Rodwerkz, but I can tell you that on the floor of my 59 Ford, I PORed it with fibreglas CLOTH (not mat) and it is an excellent repair that I can stand on. Of course a square foot of floor is not the same as doing repair to the body.

 

I think your refering to an eastwood product.. i don't know anyone who has tried it..

 

I talked to the paint store about the epoxy for body panels. About $60 for the applicator gun plus you still have to buy the epoxy

 

I have the same problem on my 32 pickup fender. We were told to hold copper behind it and try welding it again. The copper is supposed to dispurse the heat (again, supposedly). We haven't tried it yet but I'll be watchin this post for sure.

Mootz

 

Copper works well as a backing to fill holes.

 

yes it does. but don't EVER let me catch you overlapping panels on a body repair or so help me.... you got to replace it up to a point where the metal is good. the TIG or gas welding might help too. if ya know what your doing.

 

How about someone VERY talented with TIG?? The "metal glue" is called Fusor,it works great and it is water proof after cured.

 

there is some company that is listed in hemmings that does some kind of metal spraying to repair thin and rusted metal panels but im sure it cost.

my general rule is to cut 3 inches around any pin hole.

 

If you have no other options or you live in pou-dunk. This is the ticket. Use .023 wire, just pull the trigger a little at a time. Like making a spot here and then a spot there. Cool it off rapidly with compressed air. Be very patient. And of course listen to the other guys and make some bigger patches. I mean you are not working on a off-breed. You can get patch pannels for it. If you think it ****s now wait till you have to fix it again. This is what your weld should look like. OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Remember to cool after each one.

 

Thanks for the responses guys, I have been spot welding on this body for a couple of weeks now. I have made several changes to it, so I'll just continue on.

 

GLENN,
Let me ask you a question.....
Other than bein old and rusty [as many A bodys fall into this category] -Is the body sandblasted and if so has it been sand blasted more than one time?
I did a car a few years ago and it didnt seem so thin as I remember it BUT it did want to blow thru as you describe...It had been re done and blasted each time[3] it was refinished.....I believe it work hardened or shot peened the metal causing this result ......

 

ChopRods, Nope!....it's never been blasted. I planned on having it done after I get everything I can find and see repaired.
I'm REALLY concerned about sandblasting and the damage that can result to this already poor old body. I think media blasting may be a better alternative.

 

Are you welding by running beads or strictly spot welding?

 

metal to bonding glue(duramix) for glueing panels on is good stuff strong as hell,fixed a busted up banjo wheel with it looks great.Best would be to cut rust out and glue new patch in.

 

Spot only, like 1/2"-1" sections, spaced out 3"-6" depending on what I'm repairing or customizing.

 

Hey Glen.... I,ve got a 31 coupe with the same problems...I have yet to start the repairs as Ive been concerned as to the best approch...... There has been some lower patch panels installed prior to me owning it and most of the body will be ok except on the rounded parts of the roof near the back where it transitions to vertical and to the outside above the rear window,,which is kinda thin and a lot of pinholes.. This thread,, as another has said,, is a tread I have a great interest in..... It will be about a month before I,m able to get at my repair so I,d be interested in any possitive results you have and what method works best for you ,,, If there are any other methods out there guys,, I along with GLEN will be greatful for the help

 

then go shorter. one tack at a time, thats it. if you MUST try to get a 1/2" to 1" bead, still follow the tack method, hit the trigger for a half second, pausea second, watch the metal cool a bit, hit it again, do that 4 or 5 times to get a 1/2" bead. yes it will take a long time, but if it's burning through, what choice do you have?

 

I decided to grab my camera and snap a couple of pictures to show what I'm up to.
I have filled all of the areas that once were the channels for the cloth top and cut out the body line that went from the belt line up behind the rear side window. I made new pieces that blend the belt line with a gentle taper.

 

Ray, I have done 1 tack at a time my friend, and to say that it has'nt been stressfull is an understatment.

Did I say I enjoyed this part of HotRod building ? ....... I hope not .

If I had the money.......I'd let someone that likes to do this have at it.

 

I believe my body has been sand blasted before and I will not use sand on it again,, I will use a media that is not as harsh, such as walnut shells or corn...I am in the blasting and painting buisness and over the years have turned down a lot of work for guys that bring in nice old cars and ask us to sand bast them,, Its not so much the sand its the heat and high pressure of industrial size equipment that can also do the damage,,, If you must use sand use a amall noozle low pressure and keep the noozle moving so not to create to much heet

 

My 2 cents.... if the metal is thin and fatigued and cracked the only solution that I would be happy with is replacement of bad areas. With a model A finding replacement body sections has never proven to be difficult. Although when I was doing work on a buddy's '30 pickup we couldn't find good "over the door roof panels", so I made new ones. The worst body that I have is a deuce 5w. Finding original panels is impossible so I will replace sections with fabricated ones. I don't think these chemical solutions, metal spraying, or repeated spot welds are going to undo thin metal. Place an ad in the parts wanted and see what comes up.

 

I have had good results using a stick of 1/16 gas rod in the crack with the mig weld like gas welding go slow n puddle it use the heat on the rod and flow it into surrounding cracks or holes=pulling wire away from weld cools it down too as well as spotting it rather than continous use

 

Are there patch panels available for the roof back area that are curved ?? the areas in Glenns pictures........ If so ,by who cause I would like to order them,, If not my plan was to have them fabed up

 

I have fabbed up almost all of the patch panels I have need for all of the different areas so far, since I stepped up last year and bought sheet metal working tools and bender. It just takes ssssssssssssssoooooooooooooo long to do this type of work, and I guess at 49 years old now, I'm beginning to get impatiant.

 

Try spot welding only.....[no beads]on #3 of 4[hi] setting and move around....it takes forever but will cut down on the blowout problem.....

 

its called (duramix)..its good ****..they say its stronger than welding...i have used in the past and im curently using it now on my 39chevy..in the thin areas.....works great (but the metal has to be clean and bare metal..want stick to paint or rust...i get mine at the PPG store..bought a tube yesterday..$37.95..and $12 bucks for the tips for the gun ..its 2 part mix...highly recomended.....also you can get fast ,medium, or slow dry..the slower stuff dry's harder..but takes awhile to dry..think 24 hours..the fast like 4 hours..the medium in between..