Help with vapor lock issue!!

I have a 61 Cadillac and have been having trouble with it vapor locking on me,I have already pulled and cleaned the tank.I may put a electronic fuel pump to ***ist.Any thoughts.

 

Do you have a vented cap on it?

 

We had a terrible time with vapor locks on a '64 buick Le Sabre until we pulled the gas line away from the exhaust manifold/block. Wrapping the gas line in aluminum foil is another way to easily find out where/if you have a vapor lock problem.

Good luck!

 

Have you thought about maybe installing a cool can?

 

Check the ENTIRE gas line from tank to the carb for pin holes/rust holes, then check the fuel pump pressure when it's hot. Could be bad mechanical pump. And of co**** what was mentioned above.

 

You could move to the midwest and eliminate vapor lock 9 months a year.

 

i had a problem cause of a fuel filter to close or just touching the valve cover

 

To keep the fuel flowing continually, I install a front fuel filter with a return line back to the tank. Never have had a problem with this set up.

 

I find that isolating the fuel line is the best thing that actually works. An electric pump might help if the mechanical pump is on the tired side.

I saw this trick actually work, so don't laugh too loud. I had a buddy that had a car with a bad vapor lock problem while on the road. He went into a store and bought a bag of wooden spring clothes pins. He clipped them onto the whole length of the fuel line from the pump to the carb and cured the problem. The wood acted as an insulator.

Bob

 

I was having problems as well with one of my cars. I took Don’s advice, problem solved.
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Electric pumps are designed to push rather than pull fuel. Therefor they are most effective when mounted as close to the tank as possible ad at the aproximat level of lowest fuel level.

Don't want to start an argument about the existence of vapor lock but a fluid under pressure can not be blocked by a bubble of air or vapor in a system where the flow is opened to the atmosphere. Float bowls are vented. Test? If an air bubble could stop the flow, how could you bleed your brakes?? A bubble of air can sometimes impeed the building of sufficient vacuum to pull a fluid so there for the location of the pump close to the tank. Check your fuel line for any air leaks between the pump and tank and tank and carb. Also if a bullbe occurs between the pump and the carb, it should also makes its way up the colume of fluid and exit the system as soo as fuel pressure is re***erted. If you can't get your head around this, open a carbonated beverage while you contimplate it, and keep in mind that the bubbles youare observing are heavier than air. (but not heavier thant he fluid in which they are borne.)

What are the symptoms of your vapor lock. stumbling while running, or failure or hard start hot? Most hot start problems are caused by perculation of fuel in the float bowl.

The fuel expands from heat, overflows the bowl, puddles in the intake and causes a flooded start condition, Once this happens it may open the needle, allowing more fuel into the bowl from residual pressure, allowing the cycle over again till the engine cools off. If this is the case you may see raw fuel weeping out between the carb and manifold or at the throttle plate pivot pins. The easy fix is to lower the float a bit to lower the level of fuel in the bowl when you shut off.

 

I saw this trick actually work, so don't laugh too loud. I had a buddy that had a car with a bad vapor lock problem while on the road. He went into a store and bought a bag of wooden spring clothes pins. He clipped them onto the whole length of the fuel line from the pump to the carb and cured the problem. The wood acted as an insulator.

Bob[/quote]
As hokie as that sounds I have seen that and the guy swore by it

 

What BJR said about pinholes in the hard line or flex hose on the suction side of the pump, plus the other things mentioned.

 

An old timer once told me that 90-percent of all fuel problems are electrical. I have yet to prove him wrong.

Try replacing your coil.

I rode with a guy on Power Tour this year, and he said his Mopar developed a vapor lock problem the week before, and they'd done everything they could think of. When it was moving along at any kind of speed, it was find. When they got stuck in any kind of traffic, it'd vapor lock. They popped the hood, let it cool down, ever covered the lines with a rag soaked in cold water, and set the wet rag on the fuel pump.

Well, while they were doing this, the coil was also cooling down.

To make a short story long, I finally suggested cooling down the coil and the car fired right up. We replaced the coil at the next town, and he hasn't had a problem since.

The coil overheated acted exactly like vapor lock--as long as the car was moving, air was going over the top of the engine, and keeping the coil cool enough to keep the car running. Once the car slowed down, the coil overheated, just like fuel lines would do.

-Brad

 

I make a shield for Mopars that completely cures the problem. It is on the 1962to1965moparornocar webste under Tech.
You can see it there and make one for a Caddy if you wish. It was a 100% cure for our cars ad cost was peanuts. My own car was almost undriveable in hot weather before I discovered this cure.
Don